How tell if a used radiator is good

[tdskip]

So I just pulled the flushed and flushed TR6 radiator on the '74 and after a bit of flushing/back flushing I have water flowing freely through and no rust coming out. I don't have any history with the car except running it around the block, and am trying to balance getting it recored/upgraded vs not throwing piles of money at it.

What say you?

 

[Moseso]

Re: How tell if a user radiator is good

That's what I did with mine, then I put it back in the car. I did have enough history with the car to know it didn't leak.

Pressure testing isn't too hard. Duct tape over the big hose outlets and rubber tipped air pressure hose on the drain valve hole. Squirt merrily with soapy water and watch for bubbles. You neither need nor want a lot of pressure.

It's 95 here today, and while it's running hotter than 185, it ain't boiling over...

 

[GBRandy]

Re: How tell if a user radiator is good

A decent radiator shop can test it for you.....albeit they will ALWAYS find something wrong with it :wink:

I fit flushing water and didn't leak before.... I would put it back in.

 

[martx-5]

Re: How tell if a user radiator is good

I've been though heck and back with radiator flushing and repairs. It just never seems to work out for me. When I did the TR3 resto, I KNEW that the old radiator was in decent shape, as it came from a running car that didn't have any over heating problems. But, I still bought a new one. I might have taken a gamble if access to the radiator was easy, but on a TR3, you have to remove the nose.

If you don't know what the condition of the radiator is, a new one is sometimes the best alternative. Having said all of that, since pulling out the radiator in a TR6 is a piece of cake, stuff it back in. But, if you have ANY problems, chuck it and get a new one.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Re: How tell if a user radiator is good

I'd agree on a TR6.

But FWIW on a TR3 where the R&R of the radiator is a Promethean task I'd do everything reasonable to check it out before putting it back in.

 

[TR3driver]

Re: How tell if a user radiator is good

For a TR6 (where the radiator R&R is relatively simple), I'd probably just put it in and try it.

FWIW, on the project '3, almost the first thing I did was take the radiator (which had already been recored) to a radiator shop. They pronounced it 15% blocked, so I had them rod it out and pressure test it (which wasn't all that expensive, maybe $60).

Once in the car, it seemed to work well at first, but soon it started overheating. Apparently there was crud trapped inside the engine block, that came loose and clogged the radiator. Took a major backflush (full garden hose pressure plus compressed air) to get most of the crud out. After that, it went back to working fine again.

But I took it out again last night (for an unrelated reason) and found that it appears to have a tiny leak on top (where it's hidden by the front apron), so it's back to the radiator shop with it.

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha,

I addition to not leaking and being free of crud and any blockage, it is important to inspect the fins. If the fins are deteriorated or not connected to the tubes between the upper and lower tanks the radiator will have poor cooling. Those fins transfer the heat to the air passing through the radiator. Re-coring a radiator in otherwise good condition (especially a brass one) is less expensive that buying new.

 

[TR3driver]

If the fins are deteriorated or not connected to the tubes

Yup. I went through that with the TR3A. The original radiator was a rather odd construction, with the tubes pushed through holes in the fins and not soldered. Apparently mine were no longer in good thermal contact, so even though the radiator didn't leak and flowed just fine, it didn't cool worth a darn. A recore did wonders.

Recores aren't always cheaper it seems, but I have to wonder about the quality of complete new radiators that are cheaper than just a core. I got a Modine core that, as it happened, has outlasted the car.

 

[TRDejaVu]

I had mine recored and pressure tested to 22PSI; should be enough for a 4PSI system. The heater core is an unknown, but no signs of leaks - yet.

 

[trfourtune]

To answer the question:
1. have it boiled out to remove all the build up inside it (this will unmask
any potential problems)then-
2. proper pressure test-I like 30 lbs min-if there is going to be a problem,
this will expose it.
Rob

 

[tdskip]

Thanks guys - I'm going to get it checked today.

 

[TR3driver]

If you are wondering about "where", Skip, I heartily recommend Mac's Radiator in Bellflower. I've been dealing with them for over 25 years and they've always treated me right. Not particularly cheap, but they do good work and stand behind it.
https://local.acdelco.com/ACDelcoDMA/TSS.aspx?id=673094

 

[Tomster]

Sage words that have been written before:

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]The heater core is an unknown, but no signs of leaks - yet.[/QUOTE]</span></span>

Flush and test carefully as the fluish chemical can cause a leak in a weak or corroded component

 

[tdskip]

Thanks guys. Unfortunately I'm a bit away from Bellflower Randall, but I've hear you (seen you?) recommend them before and it is good to have a referral if I need a re-core.

Thanks!

 

[tdskip]

So I picked up the radiator today and it turns out that despite having been re-cored at some point it was like 40% blocked. Everything was checked and it passed a 25psi test just fine, so I think I'm good to go for a while.

Bringing it in was a very good call - thanks guys!