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Help Needed on Master Cylinder Fluif

Motopsyche

Freshman Member
Offline
Greetings all,

While replacing the starter on my '60 TR3A, I had ocassion to disconnect the clutch slave cylinder as it was mounted incorrectly on its bracket. In the process, I introduced air into the system, including the clutch master cylinder (I hate it when the reservoir bottoms out before refilling it during bleeding). My question is how to best bleed the air out of the master cylinder without removing it from the car. Or, am I forced to bench bleed it? After bleeding the slave cylinder mercilessly, the system still has air in it, likely in the master cylinder.

Guidance on best practices for in-car or bench bleeding is much appreciated.

Bill
Indianapolis
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Something doesn't seem right to me. If the MC would build enough pressure to bleed the slave cylinder, then it doesn't need to be bled. The process of bleeding the slave should flush any air in the MC out through the system & bleed valve.

FWIW Bill, I bleed mine by simply pumping up the clutch as far as I can, holding the pedal down for 10 or 20 seconds, then releasing the pedal. 2 or 3 repetitions of that has always worked out enough air to make the clutch usable, and then the last tiny bit works out as I drive. If the MC is so airlocked that you can't pump up the clutch, then loosening the outlet fitting and pushing the plunger in by hand will usually get it out.

But based on your description, I suspect some problem like perhaps a weak return spring on the slave and too much freeplay; or possibly a broken return spring inside the MC.
 
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