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Heat Shield Detail

RDKeysor

Jedi Trainee
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Using info garnered at this website and Healey6.com, I am putting in place heat shields in my Series 1 BN7. These were all missing, and I don't think the one over the muffler ever existed. The floors had been replaced, so the usual fittings weren't present in that area, but they are in the engine bay. I have also bought a commercial woven tape and have thoroughly wrapped the exhaust pipes from the manifold to the muffler---yes, I removed the muffler and tail pipes to do this. For the record, I am using 1/4" Hardie Backer, a cement board material intended for showers, etc. It cuts and drills rather easily, and I am backing the fasteners with proper looking fender washers. Since I had free rein above the muffler, I initially cut a piece to the pattern shown on the above-mentioned web site. However, on further consideration, and noting that fastener (screw) holes did't exist on my floor, I made my shield to fill the entire underside below the driver's seat, with mortises for the exhaust hanger and seat belt bolt. On advise provided here, I also used used quarter inch thick spacers from the Hardie Backer between that shield fastners and the floor. Finally, my question. The engine bay shields, and there are several, are secured by nuts that were welded/brazed to the firewall, etc. Were those nuts intended to provide air space between the backer and the shield, or were the shields mortised so that the shield could be put hard against the surface?
 

kkaa

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I too have a BN7 and dont think they originally came with a shield under the muffler. I used the kit from AH spares, and for the underside of the muffler, had to drill holes in the floorpan and install as you see for the mkII and so on.....
 

vette

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RD, I used the Moss Kit and am very happy with it. The bulkhead piece, the mortises are suppose to fit around the bossed out pieces on the firewall so that the heat shield fits against the bulkhead. Even tho I am happy with the finished result, the mortiese were not always in exactly the right place. sometimes off by just a smiggin enough that I had t reroute the holes to make the insulation board fit around them well and then also snug against the firewall. Large washers are then placed on the outer surface to draw the board to the firewall. One of the things that I found unusual was that in the area of the square plate that fits around the steering column and then one as well on the right hand side, the insulation board was not relieved at all on the back side to allow it clearance from the four screws that hold the plates in place. So I routed out the back side alittle to relieve this area for the small screw heads. The insulation board that fits on the side of the drivers side toe box is spaced out from the sheet metal with small square blocks made from the same material as the insulation board. This is exactly as my original pieces were installed, as I did remove them that way when I started the restoration. Dave.
 
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RDKeysor

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As the originator of this thread, here's more. It was a challenge manipulating the shield that goes behind the engine, the one Jedi mentions above, into place. It was the only shield where I used the original attachment holes. My car has a Toyota Smitty gear box conversion, so originality isn't achievable. I was particularly proud to have been able to fit the shield that goes on the right hand side of the pedal box by inserting it from the bottom and putting a single bolt through from the inside. My joy was short lived, however, as the braided oil sending hose that extends up that side of the box and attaches to the pipe that goes to the oil pressure gauge developed a leak after a short test drive. It came in very light contact with the Hardie Backer piece I had installed, or that's my presumption, as the hose failure came immediately after a test drive with that shield in place. I then bought and installed what Moss says is an upgraded hose--suggesting that the older ones were troublesome. Examining the original hose, there was no sign of any rubbing or damage, but it definitely developed a sudden leak. I have the shield out of that area, but will reinstall it, making sure that it doesn't make contact with the new hose. The braided hose, of course, serves to provide a flexible connection between the engine block and the metal hose/tube that goes to the instrument. It would surely be easier to install these bits with the engine out. My cost for the sheet of 1/4 inch-thick Hardie Backer was about $12. My Series 1 car apparently had the chokeless system Healey used for a time, as it had ports in the intake manifold. It came into my hands with a manual choke. I mention this because in the course of my fiddling I detached the bracket where the choke cable and housing attach to the rear carb--I wanted to clean the air filters. When I reattached it, I found that the choke knob wouldn't move in either direction, even with the wire disconnected where it attaches to the carb. I'm now looking at having to take the whole **** thing out of the car to find out why the operating wire won't move. And, of course, the little keeper with its screw that retained the wire at the carb fitting disappeared into the nether, and I will have to make a new one. Typical car repair happening.
 
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