There is an ICI code for "Ice Blue Metallic." Don't have it right now. One thing to remember, if you're going to a base/clear system, which most do these days, you're out of original anyway. The subject of "the" Healey Blue has generated vast amounts of discussion. What I remember is that the actual colors from the factory varied, so much so that it is rumored that the dealers did not display two Healey Blue cars side by side, because the differences would be obvious, and one or the other would be considered "wrong." When you do pick your color, have the body shop spray up a sample, then take it to a Healey Blue car of your choice at an outside event, and see what you think. Then enjoy the fun when you too display your baby side by side with another Healey Blue example, and debate the subject of which is "correct."
Another favorite trick is to find an original spot on your chassis, usually under the scuttle, that has not been subject to weather, and have it matched by computer. An important part, though, is not just the color, but the size of the metallic chips. They vary considerably.
In the long run, though, the exact color match is not nearly as important as the quality of the body panel fitmnet and the quality of the paint finish. See Ashmuly's recent thread about body shop problems, and thickness of bondo. Almost invariably, getting your car painted as and when you like will be the most frustrating part of your restoration process. But do pay attention here. Not very many people will care whether the spring washers are squared off or modern, or whether the piping is just so on the seats, but everyone will note your paint job, goood or bad.