Head stud question. Need answer urgently!

[lesingepsycho]

So I pulled my head today and it looked like the leak was coming from the long head studs. My question, to which I couldn't find an answer in any of my 3 manuals, is; Do I need to use a thread-sealant on the head studs when placing them in the block? If so what kind? I have tubes of permatex 1,2&3 as well as thread-locker. I'm also replacing the originals with ARP studs and nuts.

Thanks!

JACK

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Coolant leak? Most likely it was leaking via the head gasket. No sealant needed.

 

[lesingepsycho]

Yeah, thanks Trevor. I actually followed the ARP specs and chased the threads with a tap and saw that they are in fact blind holes. I cleaned the deck of the block extra well and checked for straightness as best as possible and also checked for pulled stud holes. It all looks ok (within my straight-edge and feeler gauge) so I'm going back together with a new gasket, the new ARP studs with the new cylinder head and the newly re-shafted SUs. I should be done within the next two hours or so I'm guessing (if all goes well (fingers crossed!)).

JACK

 

[spritenut]

When tightened a few times, the head studs will pull up the block deck around them. You can (and should) chamfer the stud holes just a little with a 1/2" countersink bit.

 

[Darwin]

There are a couple of thread holes that go into the water jacket on the 1300/1500 engine. I forget which ones they are. You need to use a sealer on them. It was also suggested to me when I rebuilt my 1300 that I remove the first 2-3 threads in the holes. This helps relocate the torque deeper into the block so that there is no deck bulging.