twigworker
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Every once in a while I run up on a problem and make the wise decision to ask others rather than spend the rest of my life figuring it out by myself.
Case in point...
TR3 engine
I inherited a basket case restoration in which the engine looked like it had been gone through and done up right, only to find that the cylinder head was trashed, the valve guides installed improperly and several of the mismatched push rods bent. Oh, and the cam followers were good only for shooting hoops into the scrap metal box.
In salvaging the situation I removed the oil pan and inspected the bearings and crankshaft and stared at the cam for a while. The crank, rods, pistons and all of the bearings look fine, and the cam itself looked to be new. I did manage to break the oil pump casting, please don't ask as it is really embarrassing, which I immediately replaced with one from Moss. In replacing it I did take the time to take it apart in order to make sure that it was clean and to pack it with petroleum jelly.
All of that stuff went back together without a hitch.
The cylinder head side was a HUGE bag of worms as noted above. The short version though is that the head was rehabilitated to a very high level of beauty, the push rods and valves and rockers and rocker shaft and cam followers were all carefully replaced with new stuff.
All of the usual stuff like cam timing checks, the liner deck height was measured, and all of that sort of thing was done.
The oil filter adapter was removed and inspected and a spin on filter kit was installed.
That is all background noise, but the meat of the matter is that I have not been able to get oil pressure.
Plenty of oil in the sump and spinning the engine with the starter produces nothing.
I have put together a cute little dash panel that is clamped to the frame rail. The body is off of the chassis, and the panel holds both the temperature gauge and the oil pressure gauge as I wanted to be able to observe the vital signs when I did the light up routine.
Now, using a battery to power the starter, the engine spins but there is no oil pressure being registered. There is also no oil flushing out of the filter head when the spin-on is off, and there is no oil coming out of the supply line to the gauge when it is disconnected.
As I say, the engine spins easily with the plugs removed and the distributor rotor turns as it should.
I have thought about this until my eyes have crossed and now I just want to hear from anyone who might have encountered same before I start taking the pan off and going through any gyrations that could be avoided.
Jack
Case in point...
TR3 engine
I inherited a basket case restoration in which the engine looked like it had been gone through and done up right, only to find that the cylinder head was trashed, the valve guides installed improperly and several of the mismatched push rods bent. Oh, and the cam followers were good only for shooting hoops into the scrap metal box.
In salvaging the situation I removed the oil pan and inspected the bearings and crankshaft and stared at the cam for a while. The crank, rods, pistons and all of the bearings look fine, and the cam itself looked to be new. I did manage to break the oil pump casting, please don't ask as it is really embarrassing, which I immediately replaced with one from Moss. In replacing it I did take the time to take it apart in order to make sure that it was clean and to pack it with petroleum jelly.
All of that stuff went back together without a hitch.
The cylinder head side was a HUGE bag of worms as noted above. The short version though is that the head was rehabilitated to a very high level of beauty, the push rods and valves and rockers and rocker shaft and cam followers were all carefully replaced with new stuff.
All of the usual stuff like cam timing checks, the liner deck height was measured, and all of that sort of thing was done.
The oil filter adapter was removed and inspected and a spin on filter kit was installed.
That is all background noise, but the meat of the matter is that I have not been able to get oil pressure.
Plenty of oil in the sump and spinning the engine with the starter produces nothing.
I have put together a cute little dash panel that is clamped to the frame rail. The body is off of the chassis, and the panel holds both the temperature gauge and the oil pressure gauge as I wanted to be able to observe the vital signs when I did the light up routine.
Now, using a battery to power the starter, the engine spins but there is no oil pressure being registered. There is also no oil flushing out of the filter head when the spin-on is off, and there is no oil coming out of the supply line to the gauge when it is disconnected.
As I say, the engine spins easily with the plugs removed and the distributor rotor turns as it should.
I have thought about this until my eyes have crossed and now I just want to hear from anyone who might have encountered same before I start taking the pan off and going through any gyrations that could be avoided.
Jack