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Has my fuel pump died???

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Dave Richards

Dave Richards

Jedi Knight
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Hi, my BJ8's pump stopped clicking, it's obviously not pumping any fuel. I pulled the cap, as I did I noticed what appeared to be old fuel in the cap and on the bottom of the pump. There is power to the pump. Any ideas?
 
Nah...it ain't dead, just ailing. I cleaned the points and it's working, but should it have a bit of fuel drooling out of it? It seems to be coming from the little hole where the wires run from the points area into the body of the pump.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Transistorize your fuel pump

Dar1C

If your fuel pump is not already transistorized and you should choose to make it so,
I have posted Bob Bridger's article on "How to Transistorize Your Fuel Pump" on the
North Texas AHC web site.

I have transistorized mine and two others. It is an easy mod. and GREATLY extends
point life by using a miniscule current through points to turn on & off a large current
carrying, solid state, switch powering the pump solenoid coil.

Here's the link. It is Tech Tip number 21

https://www.ntahc.org/techtips/TechTips1.htm

Tim
 
Re: Transistorize your fuel pump

This modification looks fairly strightforward. Did you do it with the pump in the car? Have the part #'s changed at Radio Shack?

Should I be concerned with the liquid that's coming from the pump body? It's not fresh fuel, but it appears to be aged fuel.

Thanks for the advice.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Nah...it ain't dead, just ailing. I cleaned the points and it's working, but should it have a bit of fuel drooling out of it? It seems to be coming from the little hole where the wires run from the points area into the body of the pump.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

No there should not be any fuel visible at any location outside the pump or inside the rear cap. I think it has a ruptured diaphram.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Re: Transistorize your fuel pump

Leaking fuel + spark at points = kaboom /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
Re: Transistorize your fuel pump

[ QUOTE ]
This modification looks fairly strightforward. Did you do it with the pump in the car? Have the part #'s changed at Radio Shack?.


Thanks for the advice.

[/ QUOTE ]

What do you do if the pump quits working and you are not in front of Radio Shack??. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif NO! the pump can not be converted in the car--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
NO! the pump can not be repaired in the car either.--- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif


NO! the pump can not be restored to its mechanical configuration in the car or on the road either--- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Re: Transistorize your fuel pump

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif I’m going to order a new pump and a re-build kit for the existing one. Victoria British has a kit listed, Moss does not. Does anyone know, is the kit from VB worthwhile?

I thought the same thing about the points and fuel, even as I wrote it; I realized how silly a proposition it was. As I looked over the ‘exploded’ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif view of the pump, I realized the diaphragm, or some seal has failed. The rebuild kit will give me an opportunity to learn all about it. Thanks everyone for the comments. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Re: Transistorize your fuel pump

--- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif Dar 100;

The rebuild kit wil also give you a chance to realize it costs~60% of the price of a new pump!. But then nobody said education was cheap---Keoke
 
NAPA pump costs 39$
Buy two and impress your caravan buddies with all your spares on your next road trip.
 
Bighly, can't seem to locate on the NAPA website, do you have a part #, or other indication of the part? Thanks, Dave
 
Dar100 - As noted correct the fuel side of the pump with a new diaphram. The transister conversion is not new and originates with David DuBois of Washington State and was first published in The Sacred Octagon, then Jag Lovers etc. If you don't want to go to Radio Shack then the universal transister numbers are :
Positive Ground - TIP 31, and
Negative Ground TIP 42C.
I talked to David three [3] years ago and he said that he no longer utilizes the resister in the circut as presented in the article. The cost of transister and diode are under $ 3.00 at a electronics store. One of the highlights of this modification is that if it fails you just rewire back to the direct acting points and it will get you home. I modified my pump as such two [3] years and 5,000 miles ago. Last spring I took the cap off to inspect - clean as a whistle. I no longer carry my spare in the boot.

Regards, Bob
 
RF,

Thanks for the updates of the Xistor P/Ns and the deletion of the resistor.

Thanks also for letting me know at David DuBois is the actual author.

I'll make the appropriate changes and give David author credit.

I never carried a spare pump in the boot, but a winter or two ago, my pump
failed to "click" after sitting silent for several months. It started after "thumping"
it with a hammer, but it was a Bit** to get to.

I then plumbed in a parallel JCWhitney pump with a switch.

As insurance, the JCW works well as I have not yet needed it, but it's still there
and regularly I test it, just in case.

Tim
 
Thanks, Ed, very interesting reading, the thread was filled with useful info.

I'm leaning towards (still undecided) ordering a new SU pump today and I am ordering a rebuild kit for the existing pump today. VB has the rebuild kit listed, but there’s a big price disparity between Moss and Vic Brit on the pump, so I must be missing something. Brit Bits has a pump listed for about $118 on ebay, I'm just waiting for a clarification from them.

Work keeps getting in the way of getting things done!
 
---Lean hard Dar100----Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
Brit Bits: $128 w/ shipping for the new SU pump, very nice people.
Vic Brit: $85 w/ shipping for the rebuild kit. Just didn't want to go "after-market" on the pump. I'm anxious to clean and rebuild the existing one.

Thanks again everyone for the posts and to Ed K. for the nod to the previous thread.

BTW Keoke, Brit Bits had a really nice SP250 for sale, I sent you a link via e-mail.

Regards, Dave
 
[ QUOTE ]
Bighly, can't seem to locate on the NAPA website, do you have a part #, or other indication of the part? Thanks, Dave

[/ QUOTE ]

Facet at NAPA, part # 60104 and it delivers 1.5 - 4 PSI
Works well on Pos or Neg ground. I use these and carry a spare.

Second NAPA choice.
Tru-Flow cylinder shaped fuel pump. It reportedly does not make the annoying ticking sound that the Facet makes and they work well. NAPA part 2P74019.

Either pump is less than $40.

These are in stock items at NAPAs so easy to get replacements.
 
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