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Tips

Has anyone changed wheel cylinders?

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Cookie

Cookie

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Dear all

Cookie's brakes started scraping a couple of days ago so thought it might be time to swap the brake shoes. Well you know how one job leads to another.. Off came the drum to a yukky mess! Yup, a lovely leaky wheel cylinder.

I've picked up new shoes, drums & wheel cylinders to give the lot a winter overhaul but - we've never tackled wheel cylinders before so feeling a little nervous...

Going to attack in the morning but before I do does anyone have any advice? Don't know how they come off as yet & the Haynes manual isn't giving me many clues - It might be obvious when I get out there but any help from you guys would be most appreciated, is it an easy job or are there any special tools that I need before getting stuck in?

Cheers mateys!
 
It's a very easy job. there is a spring clip that holds the cylinder onto the plate. when that comes off, it's a bit of a wiggle to get the cylinder out as there are 2 holes - one for the clip and one for bleeding the brakes.

here is all you need to know.

1. keep the spring clip and use it for the new cylinder. - the one that came with the new one is cr*p don't ask me how I know.

2. take pictures.

3. the brakes are opposite to one another - don't ask me how I know. As well, if you take the brake off the hub, the big nuts nuts are handed - once again, don't ask me how I know.

I have a picture that is the definative one from the boards which I can dig up if you like.

All in all, an easy job.
 
JPSmit said:
......1. keep the spring clip and use it for the new cylinder. - the one that came with the new one is cr*p don't ask me how I know........
Click to expand...


Yes, yes, yes!

The clip (or "e-ring") that JP refers to looks something like the ones below. In some cases (when the old clip has broken), I have had some success in grinding a bit off the new clips so that they fit better. Or better yet, just go to a hardware store and buy decent ones.

Also, the fitting for the steel hydraulic brake line (or "hard line") that screws into the brake cylinder will sometimes get a bit stuck. You should use a proper flare-nut wrench to remove these or, in a pinch, a small vise-grip will work. A normal open end will almost always slip when you try to unscrew the hard line fitting. If, even with a good wrench, it feels like it will strip, "rock" the fitting back and forth (tight-loose-tight-loose) just a little bit while spraying with PB-Blaster (or similar spray product).

And JP is right about photos too. Sometimes, getting all the springs back properly can be a challenge if you don't have a photo. There are special brake-hook tools used to replace the springs, but I find a small, needle-nose vise-grip is also helpful when reinstalling the brake springs.

F113_E-Ring165921.jpg
 
+1 on keeping the old clips and throwing away the new ones!!
Don't lose hours of your life trying to fit the new clips.
I'm sure I have a thread in the archive about this, as do many others here.
 
and only disassemble one side at a time so use can use the other as a reference (only backwards). You got the afformentioned pic as referece but it never hurts to have a live example.

I noticed after my brake job, I didn't put the philips head screws back in the drums and my axles leaked gear oil out. Put 'em back in and the stopped. I thought the rim bolts would have been enought but no such luck.

It's easy, take your time. Second side will go ALOT faster than the first.
 
If you are thinking about removing the backing plates to clean them up and or repaint them that is also a good time to install the cylinders. It's alot easier to do it on the bench with a vise than on the car. We did mine that way since the backing plates neede to be blasted from twenty plus years of sitting. That and I wanted to check out the wheel bearings anyway.

Rich Ball
'76 Midget
Everett, WA
 
Also, remember that these brakes are not self adjusting like the modern stuff to which we've become accustomed. I've done two different Midgets where I don't think the wedge bolts had been touched in decades. This will definitely lead to a spongy pedal as the shoes wear away. The wedge bolts can be very stuck however so lots of penetrating oil and patience may be required to get them moving. I would suggest pulling them out, thouroughly cleaning and then regreasing before reinstalling. Later on down the road when it is time to adjust the rear shoes again, you'll definitely be glad you took the extra time.

JACK
 
lesingepsycho said:
I would suggest pulling them out, thouroughly cleaning and then regreasing before reinstalling. JACK
Click to expand...

"Neverseize" or antiseize" is perfect for this aplication.
 
Thanks guys for great advice. Keeping original spring clip seemed like the way to go but the first one that came off snapped in two as it sprung off - pah!

But least we knew what to expect - job would have been a doddle if we hadn't spent three hours each side in spring clip battle - in the pouring rain - grr

Now onto the next problem, possibly charging related - she didn't want to get going this morning - a bit like her owner. Just in time for the winter eh?!
 
Ah - you're now in an elite club.

Those of us who have fought the spring clip battle and won, to move on to other things.

Welcome!
 
I confess I gave up, old ones wouldn't work, new ones wouldn't work , some from the hardware store wouldn't work. The cylinders I put on would only go on if you took the bleeder nipple off first. In the end I reasoned they had no where to go anyway. It's been 4,000 miles.....
 
I can't quite visualize that but will remember to try it.
 
That's a good idea because its about the only thing that works (or you can purchase an expensive pre made tool that screws into the brake line port for the sole purpose of pressing the bloody clips into place).
 
when I ordered new wheel cylinders this spring, I also ordered new clips (wasn't sure if wheel cylinders came with clips or not) the supplier sent me snap rings as a replacement for the original C-clips -
I was a bit unsure of using the snap rings but after smashing my hands up for a couple hours trying to make the c-clips work (wheel cylinders did come with new clips)I tried the snap rings & they worked excellent, no problems since installation.
 
That's what I got from the hardware store, snap rings. But I had trouble getting just the right size and then my snap ring pliers wouldn't fit the stupid rings. It was almost comical. Next time I'm gunna weld 'em to the back plate and be done with it.
 
I've had feedback on another forum that you should't. But I've been using snap rings on a few different MGB's for a lot of years with no problems.
 
aeronca65t said:
Also, the fitting for the steel hydraulic brake line (or "hard line") that screws into the brake cylinder will sometimes get a bit stuck. You should use a proper flare-nut wrench to remove these or, in a pinch, a small vise-grip will work. A normal open end will almost always slip when you try to unscrew the hard line fitting. If, even with a good wrench, it feels like it will strip, "rock" the fitting back and forth (tight-loose-tight-loose) just a little bit while spraying with PB-Blaster (or similar spray product).
Click to expand...

anybody know what size flare-nut wrench is used on this connection? i'm going to do this project this week and i only want to buy one new wrench.
 
I've just spent an hour trying to get a new clip on...my old frozen up cylinders on this car I just bought had no clips. Thanks for the tips and the article Davester!
 
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