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Hapiness Is Progress!

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blkcorvair

Jedi Knight
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Well All the paint is done. Under coated yesterday. Started some re-assembly today. Thank god for parts cars. Lots of reference and quick parts scavaging already. My lower portion of the steering shaft was bent slightly bannana shaped. Dunno how, but we quickly recified the problem by yanking it from my now desceesed street/test vehicle. Still may swap back to the shortened tube and give my self a little breater room. Got test fit with the seat. Here's some latest pics!

IMG_1954.jpg


IMG_1956.jpg


IMG_1957.jpg
 
Fiberglass fenders are legal?
 
Barely.
I know at least one whom gets away with it in EMRA. References the Fenders as flares that hold up the headlight. Noting that the true fender is really the inner fender, not the outer wing. A lax interpretation but it works.
 
Yes you are correct. I dont know of any vintage organizations that will allow fiberglass. Most also do not allow rollcage tubes pertruding the firewall either.
 
I'm learning.....
 
That's why it's always best to have a thorough understanding of the rules of the body you'll be racing with before starting, Tony. As Chief Tech Inspector at Waterford, I usually get at least one a year where the owner has built his car to his own specs, and I have to tell him that he can't race until he conforms to the rules.
And we go by the SCCA GCR.
Jeff
 
Jeff - were the rules easy enough to nderstand, I would! Those things are like Egyptian hieroglyphics to interpret!

Like, John Prater & I were discussing exhausts. I thought that where it said they had to be behind the driver meant they had to stick outside the body somewhere behind the driver...his car's exhaust ends right in front of the rear end by just turnng down underneath the car - behind the driver! I would've never gotten that from the rules.

My limited understanding of everything I've read is "figure out how to convince the tech guys that what you're doing meets the letter of the rule regardless of what it actually says"....i.e., calipers - calipers made of the same material as original with no more pad area than original...so, I'm gonna start weighing cast calipers to see if I can find one that weighs less than the original MGB but that'll accept MGB pads to reduce unsprung weight...I'd never have figured that out without John explaining the rule....I just must be too honest for the rules!
 
That's what can be so confusing about the SCCA rules, Tony. There are the general rules, and then there are additional rules for each class or category. For instance, in the "General" rules, it states that "Brakes shall be pedal operated, working directly on each wheel, and in good working order". In the Production Car rules it says, among other things, that "Original calipers shall be retained".
The SCCA basically maintains that "If it doesn't say that you can, you can't".
Again, with a clear understanding of the various permutations of the rules, you should have no problems.
But, every inspector will have their own interpretation as to the letter of the rule. I've fought many a battle over the clarity of the published rules. At least I try to stay consistent.
Jeff
 
I've read that SCCA GCR word for word on a flight I needed to burn time on. It can be vaugue. But the best option would be to get to the track and see if you can find some guys racing similar cars to see what's the "norm". (Ill be headed to Lime Roick this weekend just for that) Or ask here, Everyone here has a wealth of knowledge. Although you must sort threw the various opions and understand that not everyone is racing in the same classes / organizations. When all else fails, the SCCA rules are widely excepted. (Except for many Vintage organizations)
 
Tony, you've got to use the caliper original to your car, don't worry about finding the lightest housings, find two that will work good /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif In reality, drilled and slotted rotors are supposed to be illegal, but you see them, although they are a joke and most are pad eaters, and often start cracking from the drillings. You got to be careful with HSR rules, they are way liberal, look to SVRA for rules to build your car to, so when you done you're not stuck with only racing with HSR, which in my opinion is the least amount of amount of competition in vintage racing in our part of the country for small bore car. You see bigger samll bore fields in SVRA and VDCA, so make sure to build your car to appease them, because if you want to run with group that has more than a handful of small bore cars that's where you will end up.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]you've got to use the caliper original to your car[/QUOTE]
Another conundrum - some guys run different calipers...guess I won't...I'm finding that everywhere I turn

...& what's this "gotta have a passenger seat"? Doesn't matter what type seat, just a seat! I'm gonna go buy the tiniest fiberglass boat seat I can find & bolt it in my car - then I'm gonna bolt the tiniest battery box I can find in it & put the tiniest battery I can find in the battery box in the passenger seat!
 
2:

2007 General Rules & regulations of Sportscar Vintage Racing Association (SVRA)

2007 SCCA GCR

Says passenger seat can be removed in Group 8 with no weight penalty but if removed in Group 3 add 20lbs to official weight. (4-cylinder '62-'68 MGB is in Group 3.)

NOTE:[/u[ Think I'll just accept the 20lb penalty; doubt if I can find a seat that weighs less.

...& here's one from the SCCA GCR:

"The shoulder harness shall be mounted behind the driver and supported above a line drawn downward from the shoulder point at an angle of twnety (20) degrees with the horizontal."

WHAT THE (BLANK) DOES THAT MEAN?
 
Tony, look at the illustration on page 80 of the 2007 GCR. That may clear it up for you.
Basically, if you draw a line rearward from your shoulders at a 20* downward angle, the shoulder harness mst be supported above the line, before it goes through the seat. You can mount the harness to the floor, but you must have a support structure in place behind the seat. This optimizes the positioning of the harness on your body to minimize compression injuries.
Jeff
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]draw a line rearward from your shoulders at a 20* downward angle, the shoulder harness mst be supported above the line[/QUOTE]
well, why don't they say that? Somebody needs to simplify the language in these rules!

With that, I don't need to raise my seat, all I need to do in enlarge the seat belt hole coming through the seat back.
 
I've got a printed copy...mine would go directly from the roll cage to my shoulder through the hole in seat back.
 
Take the 20 pound weight penalty and get a Optima battery, that what I'm doing, forget that small lightweight battery crap, either they are big time expensive and most of the time have no guts. If you're running without a alternator, most do, then you need a good battery with a good reserve.

Tony read what I said on the Spridget forum at MGEX about lightening cars for racing, some places our cars need to be lightened, someplace they do not need to be. Like the way you wittled down your front hubs, that worries me, if you crack one in a highspeed corner we could be dragging you out of that car, not anything any of us want to see happen. Be smart when it comes to lightening stuff. You're not only responsible for yourself out there, but the rest of us as well. A amatuer race car needs to be sturdy and well built, this is not F1 where we can afford to replace ultralight items after each race. If you take turn 5 correctly at speed, which IMHO, most vintage racers do not, you going to be smacking the curbing pretty good each lap, and this takes it toll on spindles and hubs on the right front, I crack check my RF spindles after every race at Road Atlanta. Food for thought.


As far as the angles of the shoulder and lap belts, this is big time important, there should have been paperwork with your harness explaining this, if you don't have it I believe it can printed off the Simpson site, follow those instruction closely, improper angles on your belts can cause the harness to not do it's job if needed.

When it comes to saftey using the modern SCCA GCR is a good rule of thumb and will supercede all old GCR rules and still be legal in vintage, personaly I think vintage needs to take safety more seriously, vintage in the past decade has killed more people than the SCCA.
 
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