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goodparts valve springs

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
Tom,

I've had several long discussions with Richard about cams, valve springs, compression, etc. Thanks to you and that guy in LA (who will remain unnamed at this time) that keeps bugging me about doing a complete overhaul.

Richard spec'd the springs to mate well with his cam. You should have no problem with them together. What lifters are you using? I'm sure that they're also mated to the cam by Richard, so you should have no issues there.

Are you going with the roller rockers too?

That should be one sweet running TR6.
 
OP
tomshobby

tomshobby

Yoda
Offline
Hi Paul,

They just seemed so stiff. Well, I went back to the shop and we found the spec sheet that came with them. There is something about guys and reading directions here. We ran all the springs through the tester and they all fell right in the middle of th called for range. I think the rod bearing thing got us a little jumpy. Any way Richard's product could not be better. And roller rockers will be next winter.

BTW, you will love the ARP studs.

So it is very near ready to drop back in the car.

Entire engine balanced and blueprinted
Align bore for cam bearings
Block shaved and crank journals line honed.
Cylinders bored .030
Valve job w/ all new valves (exhaust valves ss). Goodparts GP2 cam, lifters, springs, guides and seals. Seats for the exhaust valves
Rocker posts shimmed
Head CC'd and taken to 9.85:1 CR
Crank ground .010 and balanced.
Timing chain and gears.
Oil pump.
Rebuilt water pump.
Cam degreed.
Carbs rebuilt by Jeff Payla with Jag needles.
Dizzy rebuilt by Jeff at Advanced
Pacesetter/Jetcoat headers
ANSA pipes
Engine bay resto
And many, many detail items not mentioned.

One more thing there will be pictures of the engine work. I will probably post them on my own site instead of filling Basil's bandwidth. I even got a pic or two of John CC'n the head for those that have no idea what that is about.
 

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
Did you go with the aluminum flywheel?

Will the 9.85:1 CR remain the same after the decking of the block, or will that raise it slightly by bring the pistons closer to the head?
 

piman

Darth Vader
Offline
Hello Tom,

I was reading your list and this jumped out and hit me:-

"Rocker posts shimmed",

is your cam that much greater in lift than standard?

There is a school of thought that says you should shim the rockers if you skim the head and or the block but that is an error. If there is insufficient adjustment then shorter pushrods is the correct remedy.

Alec
 
OP
tomshobby

tomshobby

Yoda
Offline
Just 1/32" shims. And yes it would have been better to make shorter push rods and we will when the roller rockers are installed. Until then this will be just fine. The rocker contact area is good on the valve stem through the range of motion.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Guest
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When I had my head shaved from stock thickness down to enough off to give me 9.5:1 compression, I tried installing the stock-length push rods (actually were chromoly push rods in stock length) and there was no way. After much wailing and gnashing of teeth, I finally contacted Ted Schumacher to help bail me out. Yes, I have roller rockers, but even the stock valve train would have given the same result. Ted had made up for me a shortened set of chromoly rods that work perfectly. Shimming the rockers was tried and that was a non-event. Didn't work at all. Just contact Ted and he can help figure out the correct length from the amount shaved.
 

piman

Darth Vader
Offline
Hello Bill,

Triumph made shorter pushrods because the injected engine also had thinner heads for a 9.5:1 compression.
I really don't know now how available they are, any more, especially over there.

Tom, I think that I had my geometry mixed up when I thought that a higher lift cam would be OK with some shimming, but I believe that it would be worse.

Alec
 
OP
tomshobby

tomshobby

Yoda
Offline
I will give this more thought, sometimes decisions get made in the wee hours after a loooong day. I actually can measure exactly the length needed and make them to that length myself. At any rate it is going in today. I will sort the rest out later.

The dust in the engine bay shows that this has been taking way too long.

eng_053.jpg


eng_059.jpg


167.jpg
 

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
Tom,

At this point, don't rush it. The job is being done right and the results will be obvious in another week when it's on the road. Probably sooner, knowing you, but take you time from here and it will all be worth it.
 
R

RonMacPherson

Guest
Guest
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Looking good.

The only thing I see to recommend a change is to replace that Fram with a Wix or Napa Gold.
 

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
Tom Tom, Tom.....

Please tell me that you're going to paint the alternator pulley...please......
 
OP
tomshobby

tomshobby

Yoda
Offline
The alternator is going to be changed and so will the pulley. I am going to stop down to the nearby alternator shop and take the car and wiring diagram along. Then we will decide what to use.

As far as the filter goes, I will be changing oil at 100 miles and again at 500 miles. A better filter will be used.

Oh, the pictures were this morning and tonight things are almost entirely buttoned up. Tomorrow I will not spend much time on it because our 2 year old grand daughter called and said she misses her grandpa. First things first!
 

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
Don't forget. Thanks to a good adviser on this forum, we now know that a 1978-80 Ford Fiesta, Bosch style is 55 AMP bolt on replacement with OEM wiring connector.

No muss, no fuss....
 
OP
tomshobby

tomshobby

Yoda
Offline
I saw something about a Bosch but missed the identification. Been in the shop pretty steady for the last few days.

BTW, the rod bearing thing turned out kind of strange. I bought a set of .010 rod bearings. for 5 rods they were marked .010 and for the other rod they were marked std. Turns out they were all .010, even the ones marked std. I had never seen anything like it and John, who has been an engine builder for more than 25 years had never seen it either.

Well, it has been a long day and I am going to knock off. Catch you tomorrow.
 

piman

Darth Vader
Offline
Hello all,

with regard to my comment about pushrods, I checked with a supplier in the UK (Rimmer Brothers). They list the shorter push rod, part number 149513 (8.11" length) at $4.97. Perhaps it's worth checking your suppliers in America for that part number, it must be easier than having to make up your own?

Alec
 
OP
tomshobby

tomshobby

Yoda
Offline
Thanks Alec,

I will have John check it with his pushrod gage for the correct length and see if the ones you mention will be close. Otherwise, I believe it is Crane that makes pushrod kits and I can order a set from them. The kits are easy to do.

The engine has not been run yet but I am totally impressed with the silicone valve cover gasket. I hope it still seems as good after some time and miles are on it.

So this is basically what is left to get it running,
Attach clutch hose and bleed brakes.
Battery and ground cable.
Hang carbs and connect linkage and fuel line.
Lower rad hose.
Connect starter.
Oil separator.
Connect starter.
Hang pipes and get short pieces made from header extension to rear pipes. I am going to make a pattern for these extensions and either make them available or just post the pattern somewhere so others with this combination don't have to wait until the end of the process and then do this.

Thinking Tues or Wed by the look of my real life schedule (at least hopefully by then).
 

Bugeye58

Yoda
Offline
Tom, after you determine the optimum pushrod length, ( I use an adjustable pushrod for this) Crane will make you a set to your spec's in a couple of days. It's not at all expensive, either.
Jeff
 
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