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Goodparts Oil Seperator


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I'm betting you guys have already discussed this but I'd like to know a little more about it.
My 74 is stock and I have the original valve cover vented to the carbs in the standard manner. I know that the carbs are drawing oil vapors from the cover,but I don't have any ill effects. The plugs don't show any thing unusual as far as deposits or color. No smoke from exhaust even though I believe I have 97k on the engine. Compression is nothing to write home about with an average of 133 dry and 139 wet.
Yet my oil consumption is about 1 qt./ 500 miles of conservative driving; more if I race around the back roads.
Ok. here's the Question. Do you think the installation of the oil seperator would make much of a difference in that oil consumption. I know some is going past the rings but by all indications that I mentioned previously I think a large percentage is being sucked up by the carbs and burned in the fuel mix? Oh yeah the leaks. Only the rear main, believe it or not!


Jedi Knight
If you have a stock engine thats a little tired, I wouldn't waste time (or the money) on an oil separator. They usually are used for hi-po power plants with high compression.

I personally would put the money toward a rebuild.


Great Pumpkin
I agree with Shannon.

They are also great if you have an aluminum valve cover with no internal baffle and the auxiliary oil feed line, which can give you a quart per 100 mile consumption.


Luke Skywalker
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The Good Parts oil separator is designed to be used in conjunction with the add on oil line to the rocker shaft. Original equipment has poor oil lubrication to the rockers. Infact only momentary oilpressure is achieved as a flat on the rear cam bearing goes past the port hole and sends a burst of oil to the rockers shaft.

When adding the auxiliary oil line sends too much oil to the top end and tends to flood the rocker cover and oil gets sucked into the carbs via the EGR hoses and into the air cleaners. If you have this problem your air cleaners will be oil soaked. I agree with saving your money for a engine rebuild or at a minimum a good head job.


Great Pumpkin
How much oil in your intake from the auxiliary line is too much? This is how much came out of two of the original intake ports when I did my tri-carb swap. There was still more oil in each of these, plus the last runners on the end.


Something that you might give a try, before you invest in an overhaul.

GM makes a good top end cleaner. Acura used to have us use it to diagnose clogged oil control rings on the 2nd generation Legend engine(early production).

With the can of top end cleaner opened, open up a vacuum line(brake booster) or something that's got direct manifold vacuum. with the engine speed controlled by you suck the top end cleaner into the engine varying speed from idle to under 1600(or so) rpm. when the cleaner is sucked up, shut the engine off. Let it sit overnight. Next day, start it up and drive it around the block, expect lots of smoke out of the exhaust. Might help, at this stage sounds like you've got nothing to lose.


When I tore my engine down for rebuild I noticed the top looked like it was not getting much oil. So I installed an aux oil line. I also installed the Goodparts oil separator. I am using the original valve cover with the JM Wagner silicon gasget.
My engine does not use oil. I have checked the oil separator by pulling the bottom hose and found that is is doing what it is supposed to do. If the separator was not there I wonder where that oil would be going.
As they say,"Thems the facts".


Great Pumpkin
When I had my chassis parts powder coated, I had a spare oil pan that has a threaded plug welded into each side that is 1/4" pipe thread internally. These will accept the fitting from the Goodparts separator. I did both sides so that the separator could be mounted on either side of the engine.

That would be if and only if, I ever decided to build a high compression modified engine. Maybe. Possibly someday, way down the road.


The standard valve covers have/should have a filter element in the baffle. Something similar too, probably is, stainless steel wool. Check it and make sure it is still there at least.
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