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Goodparts GP2 And Lifters

elysium

Senior Member
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Just got back from Brits by the Sea and it was truly amazing. So many terrific cars in such a perfect setting was really a treat to see. Also finally meeting some of the folks from the forum and seeing their projects was great.

I am concerned about some negative reports I heard about the GP2 Cam and Lifters as I am just about to install them in my rebuilt block. I was told that someone had experienced a very early failure and I have been unable to locate the thread. If anyone can provide the link or contact to get more info I would gratly appreciate it as the one theme throughout this project has been "well at least we'll only have to this once".
I did get the recommendation to have the lifters tested for hardness but more info of the nature of the problem would be appreciated.
Thanks
 

hondo402000

Darth Vader
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my understanding is you also need to make sure the spring pressure of the valves springs is within spec too
 

Trick6

Jedi Hopeful
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I just returned from Brit by the Sea. What a great day and it was good to be able to put faces to the THREAD.

I am running the GP2 cam and lifters. Hondo is correct that you should have the system set up correctly. BTW, I regret not installing the cam bearings when I had the chance so I am living without. The GP2 cam, reportedly, does not require cam bearings, which drove my decision not to install them. I am just fine without them, however I recommend that you install them. They leave you other cam options for later.

You must run spring pressures within specs and most important is your cam break in. This is where most cams are damaged. So, follow the instructions and break in the cam as directed. DO NOT DEVIATE. Take no short cuts. Just do it. Also, make sure you use regular oil during the motor break in. You can change to synthetic later but don’t rush it.

You should select your cam profile in anticipation of the type of driving you are planning. The GP2 is considered a mild street cam being just a touch “taller” than stock. It's two seasons and 8,000 miles now and the cam has not failed.
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
Gold
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The only sure way to know if everything is staying OK is to frequently check valve lash. It should not increase by more than 0.002" during & after run in. Likewise the clearance should not decrease which would indicate sinking valves.
D
 

tomshobby

Yoda
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Shirley and I just got home from another day on the road. We were in Iowa yesterday and in central Wisconsin today. Thought we might see a yellow Spitfire in Plainfield but none in sight!
grin.gif


I put a GP2 cam, lifters, and springs from Richard. Also put in the cam bearings. That was over 6,000 miles ago and everything seems fine. Don't know if it makes any difference but I did make sure my oil has plenty of ZDDP.
 

TheSearcherMan

Jedi Trainee
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Well, I spoke to Richard this week, he is aware of the problem with the lifters not spinning on some cylinders with the GP2. If I were you, I would use a different cam for this reason. He did mention that maybe the lifter bores were not bored in the right place. I do not believe this is the case. I like Mr. Good, but I am disappointed by the problem. I have said it before, most likely the best street cam is the original CP cam. If someone close to you has a Rockwell hardness tester, it would be worth your time to have the lifters you intend to use hardness tested, don't trust anybody, its all about the cabbage.
 

John_Mc

Jedi Knight
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If memory serves, I think it was TR6BILL who had the problem and previous thread on the subject.
 
G

Guest

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Before I get myself in hot water with Richard Good, please re-read my posts all on that subject. Indeed I did have the GP2 cam and indeed I did lose it. My only conversation with Richard was brief, I told him what happened as best as I could see it and never contacted him after that. I just chose to go a different route with another brand of cam and lifters. I have been trying to find who I had actually bought the valve springs and tappets from for the original build but my receipts are hiding somewhere. Richard was as perplexed as I was and with very little info, simply quoted me the full cost of a new cam. I really didn't get into a dialog with him on the subject and didn't give him much of a chance to interact with me as to why/what/when/how. It is unfortunate that this thing has apparently grown and I have since found that he has had to defend himself from negative comments by other customers. That was never my intention. I just told him the facts as I knew them: the cam had 5000 miles on it and went kaplooey. As ya'll know, I have since gone with a Ted Schumacher S2 cam (similar grind, a wee bit more aggressive), proven hardened lifters and properly set valve springs (my fault they weren't properly installed the first time by a certain machine shop). That's it. Richard has done a lot of good for the industry. Don't mean to give him any negative press. Building a car to move aggressive specs entails certain risks by going off the beaten path. Just when you go the fast road cam route there is a lot more than just sticking in a new cam. I thought I had done it right. Something went wrong and I just cannot say for certain what it was.
 

DNK

Great Pumpkin
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Nice job Bill. Most of us know you don't blame Richard.
 
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