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TR2/3/3A Fuel Tap for TR3B question

Vaark01

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Hi,

I just received a fuel tap I ordered from The Roadster Factory for my TR-3B (TCF) and would appreciate some advice on where and how to attach it to my main fuel line. I would prefer to attach it somewhere in the engine compartment, but it seems to be too heavy to just attach it to the fuel line and let it just hang there.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Paul
 

MGTF1250Dave

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Aloha Paul,

In the TR3A (TS comm numbers) it was attached to the end of the metal fuel terminating in the engine compartment, left hand side of the car near the fuel pump. I assume that it would be similar on the TR3B. There is a metal bracket with hole in it attached to the frame brace running chassis main frame rail and the front suspension tower. The fuel tap mounts in that hole and is secured to it with a nut screwed up on the base of the tap. The connection between the fuel tap and the fuel pump is a flexible fuel hose.

I suspect Don or some else will have a photo to show you that will be clearer than my description.

Many cars are missing the fuel tap, probably because they developed a leak over time as the valve packing deteriorated. I think the original was either cork or leather. The packing can be compressed by tightening the slotted screw in the center of the on/off knob of the tap. If you loosen the packing before trying to turn the valve you will prolong the life of the packing. Also only tighten it enough to prevent leaking. I have used neoprene fuel hose as a replacement packing material.
 
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Vaark01

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Thanks Dave. I'll look for that bracket.

I'm also going to order some stainless steel hoses to go from the fuel pump to the carbs.

Paul
 

TR3driver

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If memory serves, the tap was deleted from later models. Not sure if the bracket was left behind or not; but I wouldn't be surprised if it was deleted too.

You may need to fabricate something, since I agree that that big brass thing is too heavy to just hang on the line. Of course, there are much smaller (and more reliable) ones available.
 
D

DougF

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Randall, you are correct. According to TRA Judging Standards and Restoration Guidelines, it was removed probably in 1958. Cars after TS60000 should not have them.
Paul, that is only if you plan to show the car at TRA. Shutoff valves can be nice to have.
 

Don Elliott

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The shut-off valve goes on this bracket. It is held from below by a big nut on the inlet where the fuel line come from the rear of the TR and turns upwards to the bottom of the valve.
 

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Vaark01

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Don and Gentlemen,

Thank you very much for the pictures and advice. It is indeed comforting to know there are people like you who have the knowledge and willingness to help others.

I am looking forward to getting the job done.

Paul
 

TR3driver

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It's a fuel shutoff valve. Since the fuel pump (and sediment bowl) can be below the level of fuel in the tank; the valve is needed to keep fuel from flowing out while you are cleaning the sediment bowl.

I believe Don's photo shows it in the 'off' position, to turn on the fuel flow you pull up on the round knob, and turn it a bit to lock in the 'on' position.

The valve uses a cork seal; as the cork wears you can adjust it using that stem visible in the center of the knob.
 

Don Elliott

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Don - My TR3A is a very early TR3A (TS 27489 LO) and it came new with the "petrol stop-cock" you see in the photo above. I use it by closing it when I want to work on my fuel pump or anything up there. I close it and when I remove the pump, I don't have up to 15 gallons of gas splashing all over my garage floor.

When I park my TR3A is a "shady" area of town, or if I leave it overnight in the "car park" at the motel where I'm staying, I shut off the valve. On at least two occasions I can remember when I did this, I drove away the next morning and about a block later the engine died. There was no fuel in the float bowls because I had forgotten to open the gas line valve before setting off.

This means that if someone was to cut the "CLUB" off my steering wheel and my "Crook Hook" which is hooked onto my clutch pedal and if he can start the car after finding where I took out the rotor and hid it, then he would only drive about a block before he would "run out of gas".

As you know, I would hate to have someone steal my 96 point concours TR which I have owned from new.

Now you know thw rest of the story.
 

GBRandy

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Don Elliott said:
This means that if someone was to cut the "CLUB" off my steering wheel and my "Crook Hook" which is hooked onto my clutch pedal and if he can start the car after finding where I took out the rotor and hid it, then he would only drive about a block before he would "run out of gas".

I got a mental image of a Warner Brothers cartoon with that....Thanks!

Not all that funny though, I now do the same thing to my TR8 in the garage seeing as I have 16 year olds running around the house :wink:
 

DNK

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M soon to be 16 year old won't get near the wedge. Boat anchors are prettier she says.
Don't have to worry about her ,now my 14 year old son on the other hand...
 

Twosheds

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GBRandy said:
I got a mental image of a Warner Brothers cartoon with that....Thanks!

My friend (no, it really was my friend!) drove off in a car park with the crook still holding the brake and steering wheel of his TR3.

The rest of the story: New front apron.
 

billspohn

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Don Elliott said:
This is what it looks like from above.

Don, I trust that this shot was taken BEFORE you put the hose clamps on......
 

TR3driver

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ISTR the factory didn't use a clamp on that joint. It's the suction side of the pump, so not really necessary as long as the hose fit snugly over the tube.

The factory didn't even use clamps on the pressure side, where the fuel hoses slide onto tubes at the carbs (but I definitely recommend adding them there).
 

billspohn

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TR3driver said:
ISTR the factory didn't use a clamp on that joint. It's the suction side of the pump, so not really necessary as long as the hose fit snugly over the tube.

The factory didn't even use clamps on the pressure side, where the fuel hoses slide onto tubes at the carbs (but I definitely recommend adding them there).

ANY junction that is unclamped in a fuel system is inadvisable and would fail any tech inspection I'm running! I've seen those hoses get soft and squishy and start leaking past the spigot that they are stuck onto.

BTW, I rebuilt the valve in my TR-2 using cork material in the right thickness and it worked for years.
 

TR3driver

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No argument from me; mine has a clamp.

Lacking suitable cork, I used a short length of 'rubber' fuel line to repair my tap. Kinda forget when I did that, but it was before 1989, and it still works. I did adjust it once, tho, and the adjustment is more finicky than with cork.
 
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