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front oil seal

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tahoe healey

tahoe healey

Yoda
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I have an oil seal I bought a couple of years ago waiting for the water pump to go out (they always do). I figured it would and then I'd be in the right place to replace the seal. Well, it hasn't happened yet so I'm thinking do it anyway. The question is can I get that pulley and the chain cover off while the radiator is still in. It looks like a tight fit for tools. Any special tips on that starting nut removal? Would any one know the size of that nut? Does the chain cover need to come off? This is on a Phase I BJ8.
Thanks,
TH
 
The crank nut is 1 11/16". If you can get that nut off without removing the radiator then you have done quite a feat. Also remember that the 3000 engine is one of the few that the seal can be changed without removing the timing cover.

Alan T
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif

Nope TH, you can not get the pulley off without removing the radiator, jacking up the engine, taking an impact wrench to the nut and a puller to the pulley.-Oh its just Keoke-- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Some months back, my crankshaft damper came apart. To get it off the front of the engine, I had to remove the radiator, unbolt the engine mounts, remove the carb air cleaners and jack the engine up quite a bit so that the damper would clear the cross member that is right in front of it. That cross member is a mixed blessing - it kept my loose damper from doing any significant damage when it came loose but it is very much in the way.

I got the crankshaft nut off using a large Crescent (adjustable) wrench and a pipe extension placed over its handle. The biggest problem was locking down the car in gear to keep it from moving while trying to loosen the crankshaft nut.

I have not yet removed the timing cover and it "looks like" the seal be removed with a hooked tool that fits between the crankshaft and seal. However, I think it would be easier to remove the cover to put the seal in. The factory manual recommends leaving the timing cover bolts loose to facilitate centering the seal on the crankshaft using a special factory tool. I don't have such a tool. What I have done on my MG's, which are set up similarly, is to mount the damper on the crankshaft, make sure the seal is as centralized as possible and then tighten the timing cover bolts. My experience with my MG's is that if the seal is not centralized, it will leak.

I plan on replacing the front seal on my BJ8 in the next ten days and would be pleased to send you pictures of the process. Bear in mind that I am a lousy photographer.
 
Photos would be appreciated. Why didn't you replace it when you had everything appart? Thanks for the reminder about the cross member. Would it be easier to get the old seal out if the cover is removed?
 
I'll let you know when I'm done. I am at the point of removing the front cover. I hope to get the seal replaced and everything back in place in the next week to ten days. I will take pictures but bear in mind I'm probably the world's worst photographer.
 
I removed the radiator, unbolted the engine and lifed it about 3 cm to get the damper off.

I also removed the timing cover as I want to put a new gasket on as it is leaking.

My question regards the front oil seal. I too have a new one lying around since 2 years. Although I haven't noticed any leak, I figured that since the cover is off, I might as well put in a new seal.

On my 100/6, is there any special technique on removing respectively reinstalling a new one?

What do I have to watch out for when I reinstall everything so as not to have anymore leaks at least from the front part of the car?

regards
 
higgins said:
I removed the radiator, unbolted the engine and lifed it about 3 cm to get the damper off.

I also removed the timing cover as I want to put a new gasket on as it is leaking.

My question regards the front oil seal. I too have a new one lying around since 2 years. Although I haven't noticed any leak, I figured that since the cover is off, I might as well put in a new seal.

On my 100/6, is there any special technique on removing respectively reinstalling a new one?

What do I have to watch out for when I reinstall everything so as not to have anymore leaks at least from the front part of the car?
regards
Click to expand...
I usually put the dampener into the cover (grease the outside of the dampener or inside of the seal where they rub) to be certain that the cover is centered on the crankshaft. Systematically snug up and tighten the bolts securing the cover. Once you get a few bolts snugged up tight, you can get the dampener out of your way to access the rest of the bolts.

BTW, what kind of condition is your dampener in? I was losing sleep over the (now) fifty year old dampener, especially after seeing a couple of them delaminate. I opted for one of the newly manufactured type.

dampener.JPG
 
Hi Randy,
Was “getting the new damper out of the way” easy for you? I have the same ProRace damper and had to boil it in water for 15 minutes to have any chance of getting it on the crank.
 
Thanks for the advice Randy.

Who supplies those dampeners and what model is it exactly?

I'm not sure if we can get them in Europe.

regards
 
GregW said:
Hi Randy,
Was “getting the new damper out of the way” easy for you? I have the same ProRace damper and had to boil it in water for 15 minutes to have any chance of getting it on the crank.
Click to expand...
Now that you mention it, I do recall it being a tight fit!

I was probably only able to get it just started to line up the cover.

Check to date on the photo, I've slept since then /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Hi Higgins,
Moss sells the part. # 031-206 ($430.00 US). The ProRace damper is Australian made, very nice piece of hardware.
This website may be of interest to you. Pro-Race
 
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