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Floor Pan Replacement Cost

jjbunn

Jedi Knight
Offline
I'd like to get an idea of how much a body shop might charge to replace a floor pan in a TR6. The car I'm looking at has a an area of maybe a couple of inches at most of rust-through at the outside edge of the front-most position of the pan.

Other than replacing the whole pan, is there a good way of patching a hole like that, or is it a bad idea?

I'm assuming (perhaps wildly optimistically) that the rust is confined to the pan /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 

TR6oldtimer

Darth Vader
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Julian, I looked through the pictures you took and noticed that the inner sill on the passenger side was rusted out
and noticed that the PO had replaced the rocker on the same side but not very well. There is a lip on the inner part of the rocker that extends down from the floorboard. There you can see where the rusted area was cut off and a new piece of sheet metal lap welded on (a good shop would have butt welded it). I also noted that the end cap on the rocker at the rear of the car was not installed.

Whether you just cut out and patch the bad parts of the floor really depends on the extent of the rust damage. (Why someone would replace the rocker and bottom of the floorboard, but not the inner sill and rust spots on the floor, is to me indicative of sloppy work that may extend to other parts of the car. )

A complete floor replacement requires the body to come off the frame, a time consuming process. Patches or partial replacement can be done with body on.

I also noted that the bottom of the rear valence has rusted through. Because this area is double paneled it is in my opinion more difficult to properly repair and seal then the floor and inner sill.

If you are not planning on doing the work yourself, I would strongly recommend you find a shop that will do the work and get an idea of the cost BEFORE you buy the car.

I hope this helps. Good luck.
 

tdskip

Yoda
Country flag
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jjbunn said:
I'm assuming (perhaps wildly optimistically) that the rust is confined to the pan

The pan isn't the real issue - it is the join where the front inner fender, sill, and firewall meet. The pan maybe also an issue, but that is the real challenge.

You can't know what you are really dealing with until you remove the fender.

Just that area is not rotten...
 
OP
jjbunn

jjbunn

Jedi Knight
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Hi Ray,

Many thanks for taking a look at the photos. Could you please point to which of the photos you are referring to that show the rocker replacement?

There is indeed a rust hole on the rear valence, just under the bumper, on the driver's side. I was reading on the six pack forum that this is a bit tricky to fix properly. But it's not a structural issue, correct?

Other than the rust spots mentioned, did you see anything else that gave you reservations?

Again, thanks.
 
OP
jjbunn

jjbunn

Jedi Knight
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tdskip said:
jjbunn said:
I'm assuming (perhaps wildly optimistically) that the rust is confined to the pan

The pan isn't the real issue - it is the join where the front inner fender, sill, and firewall meet. The pan maybe also an issue, but that is the real challenge.

You can't know what you are really dealing with until you remove the fender.

Just that area is not rotten...

OK, yes, point taken. It's all such a lottery this old British car buying business - I have a feeling that if I knew more about it, then I'd never even consider getting into it!

On the other hand, *somebody* has to get this car back on the road, and that person might as well be me /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 

tdskip

Yoda
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jjbunn said:
On the other hand, *somebody* has to get this car back on the road, and that person might as well be me /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Great attitude! I'm taking the same approach, but I wanted to make sure you have your eyes open.
 

TR6oldtimer

Darth Vader
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Jillian,
Here is the link to your photo and the rocker I was talking about. Notice you can see inside. This should not be, there should be a end cap (commonly refereed to as a cookie cutter) covering the opening.

If you look close at the vertical back of the rocker cavity you will see where a lap joint runs horizontally along it. On a new or properly repaired car you would not see that seam. If the weld goes all along that portion of the floor, the only way to do it is to have the rocker off.

There should also be round drain holes at various locations along the vertical that I do not see.

Someone also sealed the clip and acme screw just in side the rocker cavity. This is not ordinarily done.




https://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff69/jjbunn/IMG_0128.jpg
 
OP
jjbunn

jjbunn

Jedi Knight
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Ray: I see exactly what you are referring to, thanks for the detailed explanation.

The jagged piece of metal just below and to the left of the bolt head does not look right, does it? The conclusion seems to be that the panel has been replaced. This would also explain the lack of seam which was discussed in a separate post.

How easy will it be to get that panel off, I wonder?

There being no cookie cutter cap there will mean either any water would drain away more easily, or enter the cavity more easily, depending on if you are a half-full or half-empty glass person /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 

TR6oldtimer

Darth Vader
Offline
jjbunn said:
...The jagged piece of metal just below and to the left of the bolt head does not look right, does it? The conclusion seems to be that the panel has been replaced. This would also explain the lack of seam which was discussed in a separate post.

Good observation. That jagged piece of metal looks to be what is left of the lower part of the "b" door post. Not fatal, but not good.
 
OP
jjbunn

jjbunn

Jedi Knight
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BOXoROCKS said:
It just dont pay to be a nice guy.

Very true ... but I'm not planning on turning a profit /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
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