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Exterior Heat Insulation??

wlivesey

Senior Member
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Since I have the transmission out at this time, I thought it might be a good idea to add more heat insulation. I have already added heat shields, the dynamat matting, plus I put down some additional stuff from JC Whitney. It is similar to the foam coasters you put your beer in. It is definately improved but as you all know it is never enough. I think I have done all I can do on the interior. Somewhere along the line I heard you could insulate the exterior side of the tranny tunnel. Also the cowl (or firewall, I'm not sure what you call it)around the transmission has the old tar paper insulation on the engine side. Is there anything that can be recommended for these 2 areas. Since they are on the exterier it didn't seem like a dynamat type material would be suitable.
Trying to be cool...
Bill L
60 BT7
66 Tiger
63 Midget
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
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Hi Bill,
You didn't mention the standard heat insulation used on the car. Is it missing? You can see it here, item #80 & 81.
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28963
It is an "asbestos type" insulating board that partially covers the drivers footwell, firewall, & above the muffler. I think a lot of folks just use 1/4" commercial insulating board. It helps quite a bit to go ahead & cover the spaces such as passenger footwell & the remainder of the drivers footwell that the factory kit does not cover.

I personally used the Moss type kit to cover the original areas & filled in all of the other areas that the kit didn't cover, with two layers of Dynamat Xtreme painted body color. It has held up well to heat for two years. Don't skip the large insulator which goes on the outside of the floor pan & above the muffler.

The two exhaust down pipes are very hot & close to the rest of the car. In researching this subject I came to the conclusion that the conventional pipe wrap heat insulation tapes would eventually cause burnout & corrosion failure of the pipes. Quite a few racers said it does keep the heat in but pipe life was short.

A loose fitting overall cover on the pair of down pipes with air circulation space within could prevent this burnout problem & still keep the heat out of the rest of the car.

I found this shield here:
https://www.mmrusa.com/HSreflectshield.htm
#101420 - 14" X 20"

It is an aluminum covered mat with a flexible ceramic interior.

The 14" x 20" size was just right to fit around the pipe pair & extend from the header junctions to the muffler inlet. Since this blanket can't be cut, I wrapped it around the pipe pair & secured it with a coarse pitch spiral wrap of bailing wire. Painted the thing black to make it less visable.

This shield really keeps the heat away from the passenger compartment & the rest of the car. Possibly the single most effective thing to keep your feet cool. There doesn't appear to be any heat injury to the pipes.
D
 

Johnny

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Hi Bill, looks like you've already done what most people do to help with the heat problem. Would you mind explaining how often do you drive your car, and why or where, is the heat coming from? It could be you have a poor seal where the transmission tunnel meets the front bulk head. That would explain heat around your feet. Also, may sound silly but check that you don't have the heater valve open and the heat vents open. I know of others that have mistakenly left the vents open and the heat valve open. close all those and it might make a difference. You also might check that all the openings in the firewall have been sealed.
I've only insulated a little around the exterior of the tunnel and have very little problem on normal trips around town. If I go out for very long trips yes, I do have heat coming in.
 

Keoke

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No TH, never tried foam .However it must be of the special urethane family or it just might melt.Conventional closed cell foam is used almost exclusively to transmit perishable products that must be kept frozen in transit. The foam case is loaded with dry ice at the vendors and distributed all over the US..---Keoke
 

Keoke

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Hi Patton, what material are you refering too as being space age.??---Keoke
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
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[ QUOTE ]
Are people putting the space age heat shielding material in the engine bay, or under the carpet.
Patton

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Patton,
As explained above, on both sides. Here is a pic of the inside floor with two layers of Dynamat Xtreme painted over. Firewall & foot wells got the same treatment.

The only thing that I used that would be considered "space age" was the ceramic blanket around the exhaust down pipes.
D
 

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Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
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Patton,
A pic of the outside passenger foot well. Same two layers of Dynamat Xtreme.
D
 

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Johnny

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Dave, Is that material you used painted on? The only Dynamat I've seen is in sheets. BTW Don't you wish this heat problem would have been solved by the factory years ago. At least there would have been a factory approved solution.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 

Patton

Jedi Warrior
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My car was built April 1, 1957 and Sputnik was launched October 4, 1957. Just about anything done to improve my car from stock is Space Age. I guess that includes the carb heat shield being covered (mine is steel only) and the drivers floor heatshield you later car guys have since the Longbridge cars don't have either.

I am thinking about not installing any of the factory heat sheilds, and using a dynamat type product under my carpet instead. There is a guy selling some stuff on ebay I am particuarlly thinking about that can be seen here...

https://www.lobucrod.com/

I have to install new carpet anyway, and it is a shame to cover up my newly painted engine bay with the innefective factory heat shields. I have to decide this weekend as Monday will be the last chance to make and install the inner footwell heatshield before the motor goes back in the car.

Patton

[ QUOTE ]

Hi Patton, what material are you refering too as being space age.??---Keoke

[/ QUOTE ]
 

wjl2

Freshman Member
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FYI, here's a link to some products that might be worth considering (they'll send you samples)

https://www.800nonoise.com/foam.htm

They make a metalized mylar product for heat and sound insulation thats tuff enough to stand up to wash guns. Its used in agriculture vehicles (eg, tractors) to line engine bays and under cabs. It comes with self-adhesive backing.
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
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Johnny ,Dynamat makes a spay on material but I have no experience with it. It is probably and primarily used in side door panels as a sound deadner.---Keoke
 

Keoke

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Hi Patton, Yes that material looks very much like the material I used in my car some years ago.It is used under the carpets and fills the air space void behind all the factory heat shields and lines the under side of rthe tranny tunnel.It works great is easy to fit and does not add significanrt weight.--FWIW---Keoke
 

CharlieCarpenter

Senior Member
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Paul Tsikuris of Tsikuris Classics, Lakeland, Florida uses a materiel called Koolmat in all his restorations. He used it in my 1963 BJ7 and the difference was clearly noticable.
It is expensive like most things but seems to work well. I think they are out of North Carolina and will sell fairly small size sheets. Their web site is https://www.koolmat.com/
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
Gold
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[ QUOTE ]
Dave, Is that material you used painted on? The only Dynamat I've seen is in sheets. BTW Don't you wish this heat problem would have been solved by the factory years ago. At least there would have been a factory approved solution.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Johnny,
I think the present day solutions are far more effective & easier to use than anything then available to the factory.

The Dynamat is self adhesive aluminum sheet. (peel & stick) It is cut to fit & rolled down tightly with a wallpaper roller. The adhesive is thick, extremely sticky, & adds to the insulation. The aluminum side can be easily painted to match body color. Laid down over clean metal, it prevents any possibility of later rusting of the panels. The combination of thick adhesive & aluminum, blocks heat & sound very well. Especially with two layers. BTW, there is a difference between "Dynamat" & "Dynamat Xtreme" Extreme is heavier & thicker. I got a bulk pack, had enough to do the whole car with two layers, & quite a bit left over. Pic attached. As mentioned, I used a thicker, metalized Mylar backed product on the top inside of the firewall, & a ceramic blanket around the exhaust down pipes. Finally have a cool car.
D
 

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OP
W

wlivesey

Senior Member
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Wow - you guys have made this heat prevention thing into quite a science! And just as a response to some of your comments: I bypassed my heater completely by re-routing the heater hose (Sorry, my car is just a driver). I have all the heat shields from Moss installed. I guess what I really want to know is what can I use on 1. the external side of the tranny tunnel and on 2. the external side of the bulk head. You see on my car I am able to take out the bulk head that goes around the tranny. I guess this was cut away by a previous owner (it actually made the tranny removal a lot easier). I still have the rubber flap attached to the bulk head that blocks the air around the top of the tranny. There is also the tar paper attached to the bulk head. I would like to replace the tar paper and also put something on the external side of the tranny cover. It sounds like Dynamat Extreme would be OK. Dave you mentioned some "mylar" type material - where did you get that? And if I use Dynamat extreme do I understand that it will be able to adhere to the external side??
 

Keoke

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wlivesey, I see no point in bypassing the heater if the core is good and the control valves are in working order. The cooler water stored in the heater matrix can sometimes be used to momentarily lower the engine termperatue when under heavy load.Periodically opening the heater valve and circulating the cooling system water through it helps maintain the life of the matrix.--FWIW---Keoke
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
Gold
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Hi Bill,
The insulated, reflective, "mylar" type material was from J.C. Whitney. Part # 25ZX0705N, at the time. I used this on the upper inside of the firewall.

I personally would put any insulation material for the transmission tunnel on the interior (cockpit, side of the cover). I feel that there is already limited air flow for transmission cooling & prefer not to reduce the cooling further. You need "some" room for air flow. One of my previous pics shows two layers of Dynamat on all of the engine side firewall & footwells, that are not covered by the limited factory insulation board. It sticks to a clean surface, painted or bare, like you wouldn't believe. Another pic shows the same done on the interior side. If it is rolled down tightly, smoothly, & painted body color, it's practically undetectable. Some of the factory cars originally came with the "asbestos" heat shields painted body color, so this isnt straying too far from original. Dynamat also prevents any possibility of rust forming on the metal underneath. BTW, I have found that oil base exterior enamel works very well on the interior floor surfaces after the Dynamat is applied. Bit slow to dry though.

The bulkhead panel is removable. It is actually called the "gearbox extension panel". The upholstery needs to be peeled back a bit to access the screws. There are only screws at the top & bottom. On the older cars, the carpeting on this part should actually be wrapped completely around the side flanges. It is what forms the bulkhead to footwell seal. You can see the panels here: https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28963&SortOrder=9
D
 
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