Engine Weight

[vette]

Hello everyone, Can any one tell me how much a BJ7 3000 engine weighs. I hope to be pulling mine soon and would like to know what weight I'm dealing with.
thanks.

 

[Randy Forbes]

I think it's on the order of 600-650#, but that might be with the trans attached.

I believe the number is quoted in one of the workshop manuals (Bentley or BMC).

In any case, a 2-ton cherry picker can do the job.

 

[BabaKahawa]

The work shop manual has the engine at 611#.
The gearbox at 79.5# and the gearbox
with overdrive at 117#.
Good luck with that project.

 

[dougie]

Make sure you have a good assistant. The 650-700lbs are wedged in tight and a little help persuading it out is usually needed.

Dougie

 

[Randy Forbes]

Make sure you have a good assistant. The 650-700lbs are wedged in tight and a little help persuading it out is usually needed.

Dougie

Appropriately attired, no less (Miller Time).

Of equal importance, is to find the correct angle to lift the assembly (eng/xmsn combo) or it won't fit coming out of the hole. A load-leveler-type of device may make that easier, but having never used one, I can't say how hard it is to adjust with 700# dangling from it. If you do use one, I recommend that you grease the screw before use, and keep the attachment chain(s) as short as possible; that's a long lump, as seen in Dougie's picture, and you'll be close to the height limit of most average cherry pickers.

 

[vette]

Yes, aren't we lucky to have such good assistants on occasion. And yes it is a long and tall lump to get out. I am planning to use a load leveler. I was not planning to take the head off. I will have to change my height position of the whole car, because I have it fairly high on large jack stands to do the body and frame work. But I can't put it too low because I am concerned that tipping the engine combo to the necessary angle will put the trans tail shaft into the shop floor. I'm guessing that putting it at just alittle higher than normal riding height might be best.
thanks for responses. It looks like I'm dealing with about 730 lbs.

 

[vette]

Yes, aren't we lucky to have such good assistants on occasion. And yes it is quite a long and tall lump to get out. I wasn't planning on taking the head off. I will use a load leveler. And I must reposition the whole car as I have it fairly high on some large jack stands to do the body and frame work. I am concerned with putting it too low as I wonder that putting the engine combo at the necessary angle might put the trans tail shaft into the shop floor. I'm guessing that setting it at just alittle above normal ride height might be best. So it looks like I will be dealing with about 730lbs.
Thanks for the responses.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Might be an advantage to elevate the rear of the car, but you'd have to experiment with the lift angle, though I've never tried this...

 

[germanmichel]

Hallo vette,

currently I pulled my engine out . Before I had very much respect to do this,
but with an normal engine lifter ( 1,5 ton) it was very easy.
FYI I pulled the gearbox before, it was a good way. If you lift with the gearbox you have to have the hight in your garage available.
What you definitly need, is an engine support holder (sorry for my english)

Bye Michel- who wishes you good luck.

 

[mjobrien]

Taking a few engines out I can tell you that a good lift and a leveler is key. Taking the head off helps reduce the chance of impacting the firewall when you start to tilt the motor/trans. Personally I remove as much as I can while the engine is still in the bay. It's amazing how much damage you can do to an Aluminum shroud with the smallest part hanging off the block.

Hope this helps,
Michael.

 

[GregW]

I had the head off when I did mine also. I kept the engine relatively level until it was over the engine bay, then started the angling/shoehorning process. A ratchet strap from the tower of the picker to the engine will help keep the engine from swinging as you move the assembly into position.

 

[Randy Forbes]

I usually remove the hood completely (I'm thinking that's not a concern on your car, likewise, if your shroud is already off, some of the items listed below can be ignored). If your hood is still on, and assuming it is now correctly aligned, drill two (2) 1/8" holes through each hinge bracket so you can put the hood back in the exact same position when you're done. Make them look neat, and no one will ever notice...

Some things will become obvious as you lift the engine, like having to unbolt the LH motor mount bracket from the block. Getting the RH mount out of the way is a judgement call, but will afford you some extra room.

Remove the radiator, upper & lower hoses and the fan blade(s).

If your car has tubular headers, they and the carbs will need to come off first (a real treat if you're running Webers with a combined air filter box). If you still have the stock exhaust manifolds, they and the carbs can remain in place. I'm pretty sure that the stock air filters do not pose a problem.

Removing the generator can be an advantage. Ditto the wiring for generator, starter and coil (and the electric choke/carb, if fitted).

Shift lever has to come out of the trans (side or centershift, they'll both hang you up). Transmission tunnel removed.

Tachometer cable disconnected from the drive under the distributor.

Heater hoses.

Don't forget to undo the throttle linkage (without losing a grommet in the firewall).

Oil pressure line has to be undone; flexible pipe connection, either at the block or the ridgid pipe.

Water temperature gauge capilary tube (careful with this one).

I suppose the best advice, is to just relax and take your time, always watching 360* around the engine bay for every couple inches of rise.

As long as you can get a solid attachment (no slack or gaps) the two (2) studs that secure the rocker cover are adequate for lifting the mass. The factory did it with L-shaped lifting brackets, but I made a fixture from 2 x 2 angle iron (relieved for clearance, a/r) that bolts atop the rockershaft, and has multiple holes for the angle. It's proven itself worthy dozens upon dozens of times (I worked at a shop specializing in Healeys during the 70s).

If I can think of anything else, I'll add it to the list...

 

[andybj8]

Hi vette

I know this is install, but as the haynes book says, its the opposite of dismantling! anyway should give you some idea, Gregs advice is great on what to disconnect.

I found the limiting factor to be the reach of the hoist, mine only just reached the centre of the engine bay with the mast upright nearly against the front of the shroud, heres pictures of my lift:

https://www.austin-healey3000.com/thebigliftengine.htm

I am glad I followed advice and put the whole engine gearbox unit in one, it was very easy to align before hand and I actually found it quite easy to install.

I used the load leveller, and found that the handle got caught (angle of jib catching handle)as we first tried so we hand to place the handle on the other end as in the pictures.

We found it very easy to use the car on its wheels, ie we lowered the engine, then rolled the car forward using the front road wheel a couple of inches, then altered engine angle and again dropped an inch or two, then kept repeating. It didnt take long at all. Two people are ideally needed, one to roll the car, and operate the lift while the other guides and checks the gearbox thru the bulkhead. I did call for my wife to watch the engine clearance against the steering column, just for damage on the column.

cheers Andy

 

[vette]

Thanks again everyone. I wasn't going to pull my head because I am not rebuilding the engine. It's running perfectly. I am just detailing the engine bay and cleaning and regasketing the engine, & painting. Gave much consideration about pulling the trans separately. But having listened to many people and having done a few MGA combos I thought I would try it with the trans attached first. The body is basically a bare monocoche but with the shrouds still on. They are in good condition and I don't believe I had any good reason to remove them. Of course the 'bonnet' and 'boot' lid are removed. all ancilairy equipment to the engine and the engine bay are or will be out of there before i pull the engine.
I left the engine and trans in the car while I did the frame and body work because, basically I didn't have any reason to remove them yet, and I believe with them left in place and not disturbing any mounts at all that it might assist in me keep the frame and body from distorting while I did the major construction work. I believe the frame and body has been pretty much weighted as it will be when it is on its own wheels again and setting on the asphalt.
So maybe soon I will now pull the engine. .... But I do have to replace the front crossmember yet. I'll probably leave the engine in till I do that.
Thanks for all the inputs. It is always good to get others ideas. If you find my reasoning alittle suspect, please chime in as I am deffinately working thru this.
And thank - you German Michael for your broken English suggestions. Experience is always good no matter what language it is in. As you can see I can speak English fairly well, but I'm not very good at typing it.

 

[tahoe healey]

That is something you only do when REALLY necessary. It is one of the least fun and most dangerous things I think you can do on any Healey. I don't remember which forum it was on but a poster dropped his engine onto the body with in the last two months.

 

[HealeyRick]

Here's what it looks like when you do it right:

And yes, it's a little scary. Anything slips and the aluminum shroud is going to need a lot of work.

Happy Healeying,
Rick

 

[Randy Forbes]

Here's what it looks like when you do it right:

And yes, it's a little scary. Anything slips and the aluminum shroud is going to need a lot of work.

Happy Healeying,
Rick

Yes, it's all about getting the angle right.

 

[tahoe healey]

I'm surprised you did not remove the carbs and manifold.

 

[Randy Forbes]

I'm surprised you did not remove the carbs and manifold.

They were on the engine when the line workers at Abingdon dropped it in.

Only tube headers, at least those made by Al Kirk, and Weber carbs <span style="font-style: italic">have to</span> be removed.

 

[vette]

Rick, looks good. thanks.