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Engine Treatment Formula

PC

Obi Wan
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I think you'll find many people have very definite opinions on this one. As opposed to slightly less controversial subjects like say, religion, Middle East foreign policy or gay marriage.

At the risk of starting WWV here's one guy's website that I found rather interesting.
https://www.baileycar.com/oil_additives_html.htm

PC.

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Okay...this stuff (ProLong) says it does not contain...PTFE, resins, molys, zinc, copper or graphite...so now what?

Still a "hype"?
 
I live by a simple rule. Only 2 things go in the crankcase: oil, and engine flush.
 
Here are a couple of the PTFE outfits taking shots at chlorinated chemistry products (like Prolong):
https://www.greasedlightning.com.au/information/chlorine.htm
https://www.carstores.biz/Downloads/Chlorine.pdf

Here's a chlorinated rebuttal (but not from Prolong so its arguments may or may not apply): https://www.mpc-home.com/htmls/Chlorine%20and%20Engine%20Oils.htm


I like Lawguy's term, vague puffery.

It's just my own personal prejudice but I never use anything from anybody that engages in vague puffery or resorts to sideshow exhibitions.


PC

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Izual Angel:
I live by a simple rule. Only 2 things go in the crankcase: oil, and engine flush.<hr></blockquote>

Well that leaves out a lot of LBCs. (where you're likely to find coolant, rain runoff, Guinness Stout, bird's nests, fish&chips...)
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PC.
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by PC:
Here are a couple of the PTFE outfits taking shots at chlorinated chemistry products (like Prolong):
https://www.greasedlightning.com.au/information/chlorine.htm
https://www.carstores.biz/Downloads/Chlorine.pdf

Here's a chlorinated rebuttal (but not from Prolong so its arguments may or may not apply): https://www.mpc-home.com/htmls/Chlorine%20and%20Engine%20Oils.htm

hammer.gif
<hr></blockquote>

Read them both and now I am thoroughly confused.
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I too never add anything to my oil. I have used STP and motor honey in the past on a very badly worn engine and my experience is that it just puts off the inevitable.
As far as synthetic oils, I had a friend once that got caught up in selling a certain brand and gave me a free batch to try to get me hooked. I tried it in my "B" and it started using oil. I went back to regular oil and it was a few oil changes before the usage got down to not using any.
Bob
 
Anyone with imput regarding...Engine Treatment Formulas...stuff you pour into the crankcase...supposed to treat the engine...some claim to cool the engine...reduce friction...

I was given some "professional grade" Prolong...for the engine, also another for transmission and another one for the fuel tank...

I know people use this stuff for larger vehicles...what about a LBC??
 
yup synthetic is formulated for closer tolerances of new cars. Never heard anything good about using in LBC's but great for new cars.
 
If you'd like to buy some "Engine Overhaul In A Can"....stops oil burning and LBC oil leakage...restores lost power....increases gas mileage by 30%...fills tooth cavities...ends heartburn....eliminates belly button lint....please send your $19.95 to me.

If you'd like to invest a little more, I'm selling shares and a lovely bridge that I own.
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Just as a supplement to this, I know that John mentioned the use of synthetice being good for newer engines, not for LBCs. I know the whys and the wherefores of this, but my MG has only 26,000 actual miles......would that still apply do you think, or should I stick to the conventional 20/50 that I use now? Opinons?
 
My understanding is that the gaskets/seals that have been accustomed to mineral oil don't cope with the change to synthetics that well, and they tend to start leaking. This may be a different case if it's a new motor with fresh gaskets & seals, but I'm no expert.
Steve, I'd stick with the conventional 20/50 that you're using now.
 
I'm kind of suprised that you other LBC owners are using 20/50.

We Mini owners use 20/50....not because the engine requires it, but because transmission (which runs in engine oil) needs the 50 wt.

Although, at the rate that LBCs leak oil, maybe we should be running 60 or 70 weight....
grin.gif
 
Heck, gear oil might take longer to sneak out of an LBC.
 
Years ago, I had a 948 Bugeye Sprite that burned a bit of oil and had pretty low oil pressure. As an experiment, I ran it with straight 60 weight motor oil (the stuff they used to put in Harley Davidson motorcycles).
It accelerated even slower than normal, ran hot and wouldn't go over 60 MPH. Oil pressure went up but it still smoked. I went back to straight 40 weight right away.
 
Thanks...I guess I've got an early christmas present for someone else...

Engine Treatment Forumla = Fruitcake for cars...
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[ 04-24-2004: Message edited by: Henri ]</p>
 
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