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double sided foil Thermal Acoustic Blanket

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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Hello all. I've been talkin here about foil lined jute and ran across this product by Cascade. Here is their description:

Cascade Thermal Acoustic Blanket ( 24 Sq Ft ) ( $1.79sq ft )
The Insulator consists of an all natural cotton fiber layer with a surface layer of foil. The foil side of the blanket should face the heat or noise source. #12 has Cotton Fiber core with top and bottom layers of foil Size: 4' x 6', thickness 0.25 inch

views on Jute vs All natural cotton fiber?

#12, Seems a good idea to have the foil on both sides?
May help in not absorbing (as much)water when used in the footwell? Maybe harder to dry out if it does?

Maybe better at reflecting heat in the footwell?

Any comments
Thank you, Roger
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
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Hi Roger,
For use on inner or outer surfaces, I would avoid products which can absorb or hold moisture. The "cotton" doesn't sound so good. I recently replaced the "jute" with closed cell foam. It has good heat & sound insulation qualities & cannot absorb or hold moisture. (Keoke convinced me that "jute" was a bad choice.) Examples can be seen here:
https://www.foamorder.com/closedcell.html
As discussed in earlier threads, the foam was laid down over painted & sealed Dynamat on interior surfaces.
D
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
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Hi Roger,
The "Low E" product should work well. I used "Volara" 1/4" thick over the Dynamat. Healeys originally had tar paper, jute, & carpet. With their propensity to rust from the inside out, a good water excluding floor covering will help a lot. With all of the newer insulations available, there is no one correct method. Many will do the job for you. Just make sure that the one you select does not absorb water. The carpet will always hold water, thus it is secured with easy removal snaps.
D
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
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\
HI Roger, Low "E"is the type product I have been using in the cars for years now it is a very good thermal insulator and easily installed.---Keoke
 

Randy Harris

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Roger - In my car at least, the heat intrusion is minimal from the floor. I have no tar paper, just jute and carpet. The trans tunnel and the firewall are the main culprets. They got an insulating blanket of foil-backed (one side) fibre-tech padding, sold by Moss I believe. I still get a fair amount of heat coming from the gear shift area though. Pay particular attention to these areas and you'll be happy.

BTW - why are you worried about water pooling on the floors? You planning on driving top-down in the rain?
Randy '66 BJ8
 
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When I redid my carpets I used a moss type foil foam. Almost 1/2 inch thick. I just laid the carpet on top. How are you snppping them into place? Pad glued into place (not good if it gets wet) and snaps on top? Snap insulation to floor and glue insulation to back of carpet? My carpet tends to slide forward about an inch. The moss typw stuff seems to work ok. As I've said the exact stuff is at Home Depot for water heater wrap(twice as much for less than 20 bucks).
 

Dave Russell

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I believe your car originally had the floor carpets retained with snaps at the rear corners. The tunnel carpet was similarly retained. The carpet part of the snap used a thin open centered ring on the top side, nearly invisible. The male part of the snaps were screwed down to the floor.

You can put spacers under the part of the snap that is screwed to the floor. If you raise the snaps with spacers, & cut about one inch diameter clearance holes in the pad, The loose pad will be retained by the snaps. No need for glue which would just make things more difficult to remove. You can see the ring/snaps as Moss # 228-128, "Veltex Carpet Ring Assembly". If the insulation raises the carpet enough to foul the seat slides, end it short of the snaps or put spacers under the slides.
D
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
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Hi TH, What type carpets do you have in your car? Aftermarket bound carpet or as original unbound. If you find the snaps will not reach high enough snaps {The Male Part} with longer screws are available at most boat supply stores.Alternatively, you can remove the existing short screw and obtain longer SS ones again at a boat supply to accomodate the shimming.Let me know about the carpet-OK---Keoke
 
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They are bound at the edges. They are in good shape but look cheap. They were just thrown into the car to help make the sale I guess.
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
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OK TH, You will require the snaps.Located on the floor board you should find "Four" holes on each side of the tunnel.Two will be located just in front of the seat frames and the others are located farther forward just before the foot well starts to incline. If you can not see them from the top you will be required to jack her up and find them from the bottom.Use toothpicks, screws whatever to mark their location.Cut the Thermal insulation to the same outline as padding on the back of the carpet- {I hope the pads are there}.But first install the snaps and get a good fit of the carpet.For shims you can use 1/4" SS nuts. When you are satisfied all fits well.Remove everthing but the Floor portion of the snaps.Mix up a bit of "JB Weld" and fill each nut's center used for shimming and reinstall the snaps. This will in sure they do not loosen or wiggle around.Get in trouble Holler. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif---Keoke
 
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