Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

[Guest]

Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

I bought POR-15's Metal Ready to cover up some rust and read on the package you can use it for a prep for regular paint also........DON'T !!!!!!!!!

Their instructions tell you to rinse off with water after 10 or 15 minutes and then dry. What it doesn't tell you on the package is that it will flash rust durring and afterwards. Why would I want to use something that promotes rust after I spent 3 DAYS media blasting my top frame to remove rust ?!?!?!?!?!?!?

If you goto their site, it'll state that it may flash rust "but POR15 loves rust anyway"......and this is in the instructions for regular paint prep !!!! Shouldn't this be ON THE PACKAGE ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? Why would I want flash rust under regular paint ?!?!?!?!?!?

So......apparently you can use it for regular paint.....as long as you use POR15 instead !!!!!!

Looks like they are more worried about selling more POR 15 and making you dependant on it than customer service or concern.

I also found out their "solevent" is just acetone. My local body supply guy said someone at the company (POR15)told him this.

"Use only POR15 solvent with POR15", "Metal Ready can be used as a prep for regular paint", "the check's in the mail".....etc........

It's obvious profit is their only concern.

Luckily I had some Ospho here and that saved the day.

Man I'm so mad !!!!!!!

 

[spritenut]

Re: Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

I have seen the results of POR 15, it's junk, just paint like anybody else's paint.
I painted some bumper irons with this junk and they just rusted up anyway.
Oh it's nice and thick and fills in rust pocks but it does not cure rust, it is not the magic potion they make it out to be.
If you want to get rid of rust, CUT IT OUT.
If you paint over rust, it keeps rusting under the paint.

 

[Guest]

Re: Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

Really? I've got nothing against POR15 itself. The only stuff I've seen is the store I bought it from had some that the can wasn't sealed correctly and it all hardened and man is that stuff tough !!!! I can "see" where it would work like they say and I'm suprised to hear you had trouble. Did you prep it correctly (flash rust and all)?

 

[Jer]

Re: Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

I have seen the results of POR 15, it's junk, just paint like anybody else's paint.
I painted some bumper irons with this junk and they just rusted up anyway.
Oh it's nice and thick and fills in rust pocks but it does not cure rust, it is not the magic potion they make it out to be.
If you want to get rid of rust, CUT IT OUT.
If you paint over rust, it keeps rusting under the paint.

Did you use the UV protectant on the POR-15 when you put it on the bumper irons ? I believe a protectant has to be used if in any aplications when in direct sunlight... I have heard great things from people who use it for underbody/frame applications -

 

[regularman]

Re: Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

I don't think its like regular paint. The only way I found to get it off after application is to grind it off.

 

[jcatnite]

Re: Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

While we are debating the merits of POR-15 I want to ask one question. Is the UV protection they are speaking of just a color coat of your choice? I haven't experimented with it either way but kind of wondered if that was all it meant. The other brand-x rust converter I used on my Jeep asked for the same "UV protection" and I took that to mean prime and color coat.

Oh and I agree that the only way to be 100% positive you got it all is to cut the rust out.
JC

 

[regularman]

Re: Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

Yeah,just a color coat before it dries.

 

[mk2sprite]

Re: Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

Correct, the color coat is the UV protection but even if it is exposed to UV light it supposedly will not loose it's protective nature, the shiny black finish will just dull.
With Por 15 it's all in the PREP, I have seen alot of complaints from people who say it doesn't work probably because they just used it without reading the directions. The prep work is a PITA but necessary for a really good finish. I do not like painting over rust and will clean to bare metal as much as I can but it's nice to know that the small areas you can't get to are covered. My first job with it was the floorpans on my Sprite, about 15 yrs ago and they are still rock hard with no signs of any rust. I do agree though, some of their stuff is questionable.
If you follow the directions to the tee, you will get great results. my experience anyway.
Mike

 

[HAN8L1965]

Re: Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

Use Eastwood Encapsulator, you will be very happy. Simple to use and does what it says it does. Encapsulates rusted parts and you can apply your finish paint over it. I painted finish in engine bay this week and it looks great.

Mark

 

[dklawson]

Re: Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

I am in 100% agreement with Mike (Mk2Sprite). Most people who complain about POR have not spent the time to prepare the surface properly. I do not sing the praises of POR but I don't call it snake oil either. It does exactly what they say it will do IF you follow their prep instructions to the letter. Unfortunately the prep work is not as quick and easy as they imply. Prepping for and applying POR is not a quick process. Plan on prepping over several days and babysitting the application process on another day.

Acetone for the solvent? It very well could be. I can tell you from my personal experience you should NOT use lacquer thinner to spray or thin POR. Lacquer thinner will however clean up POR very nicely.

As for Metal Ready, it is a phosphoric acid product. It is applied just like all other phosphoric acids like Ospho, Oxi-Solve (or whatever Eastwood is calling it this year), or Right-Stuff Deruster. All of these products must be applied and re-applied without drying to achieve a dark grey matte coating. Do not let them dry. Once the coating is dark and uniform you rinse with water as mentioned above. I never stop at that point. I immediately towel the surface off and then blow dry with compressed air. Prior to applying primer I use prep-sol and a tack rag to remove any fibers and residue (including any flash rust). There is nothing wrong with Metal Ready, there is nothing that sets it apart from the other phosphoric acid products that make it unsuitable for paint prep. My only complaint about it is its cost. The Right-Stuff Deruster is less than 1/2 the cost of Metal Ready.

Rust Encapsulator (a.k.a. Coroless paint) is also good. However, POR has a certain toughness and resistance to chipping that offers additional benefits in some applications. Rust Encapsulator is much much easier to apply though.

 

[Guest]

Re: Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

Ospho is ALLOT thicker than Metal Ready or Chemprime and Ospho won't rust metal while it's still on it like Metal Ready does....and this is while it's still wet. I was really suprised to see this. They still need to mention flash rust is possible on the package. I misread the Ospho and didn't realize I ahd to wash that off also. Now it's got too much on it and has big, dry runs. I put it back in the blaster to get that off but still have some flsh rust. I'll probably have allot more as it's in the barn and has been raining all day.

Probably will chemprime tommorrow. They say to just wipe down afterwards. I'm not washing anything again. I wish I would have just sprayed it and been done with it. Now I've got sand an water inside the bows from the rivet holes for the webbing.

 

[dklawson]

Re: Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

I cannot imagine a scenario or an acid product where you would NOT want to rinse with clean water and wipe dry. You certainly wouldn't want to leave any acid on the surface below your primer or top coat.

On all the acid products I've used, I have found the best results come from keeping the surface wet as long as possible. If you let them dry on the surface you will get white blotchy deposits that don't adhere well to the surface... or to the paint.

Depending on the size of the surface you are treating you may not have to blast the surface again. In general, if you take a ScotchBrite pad wet with the phosphoric acid and gently scrub the surface you'll remove the heavy deposits your talking about. If you keep the surface wet for a while, the resulting coating will be suitable for rinsing, drying, and painting.

 

[Guest]

Re: Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

Phosphoric acid products you can leave on. I tried to rewet and scub but it didn't work. Did a quick reblast and Chemprime. That stuff works great. I wet it down then wiped off the excess. It's drying nice, no blotches or white chalky stuff. Will paint tommorrow. I'm happy (at least for now) and it looks like I know what to use now. Dad was right.......25 years ago, Chemprime rocks!!!!!

 

[dklawson]

Re: Don't use "Metal Ready" prep for regular paint !!

Chemical stripping companies will dip entire cars to remove all old paint and sealers. Most offer phosphoric acid dips after that to remove all the rust from every inch of the car. Every paint thread I've read (until this one) has cautioned about residual acid left on dipped chassis discoloring top coats.

Paint over your non-rinsed phosphoric acid if you want. I was taught to rinse acid products off of prepared surfaces and I will continue to do so. Paint is too expensive for me to risk discolored top coats.