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Dash Recovering - Almost done

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David_Doan

Jedi Warrior
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Dash Recovering - DONE!

UPDATE: Done!
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Glued the vinyl on the dash this evening.

I put 2 coats of Weldwood contact cement on the dash and on the vinyl with about 15 min drying time in between - it was about 100 degrees in the garage. Using a piece of plywood and some clamps, I stretched the vinyl very slightly lengthwise and just dropped the dash on it. Then I released the clamps and started pulling it around the sides.

At first just pulling it straight up to get it close, then wrapped around the edges and started trimming the excess. I did not end up doing any relief cuts. The vinyl (seat vinyl from AH Spares) was very stretchy. I ended up with only one little crease on the outside at each left-right tip.

The vinyl wrapped to the inside of the dash was not sticking well, I did not put glue on the inside of the dash. I used upholstery clips in some key areas and let it dry for a couple hours. Then re-applied the glue in those areas and let it set up for about 15 minutes. Then it stuck down and stayed.

I'm going to leave cutting out the holes for another day. The whole process was not as hard as I had expected. I think I was lucky that I got good stretchy vinyl.

Here's pics of the progress so far:

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Last edited:
Looking good so far. Are you planning on replacing gauge glass and trim rings. Don't forget gauge O rings.
 
David,
Great job! When you cut out your gauge and switch holes use the 'pie' method and glue the strips to the inside of the dash. This will prevent the pulling you experience after the vinyl is stretched across the dash that makes the edges of the hole bunch up.
Rut
 
Nice job. Looks really good.
 
I didn't use the "pie method". My vinyl well secured. After a few days, I used a very sharp small Swiss Army knife to cut the holes. Worked very well.
 
McNaster car or Nissongers
 
Whitephrog said:
I didn't use the "pie method". My vinyl well secured. After a few days, I used a very sharp small Swiss Army knife to cut the holes. Worked very well.
Click to expand...

I'm with Ray.....if the vinyl is glued well I don't think you need the "pie" method. I used a exacto knife. The O rings are sold by e-bay vendors. I haven't checked catalog suppliers.
 
So tips for getting gauge face/ trim off without breaking glass.
 
David_Doan said:
Just pry up the little tabs on the back of the trim ring.
Click to expand...

Be careful prying the tabs. The trick is to pry them as little as possible until they no longer make contact with the rim of the gauge, then twist the trim ring until it lines up with the slots in the gauge and lift the ring off. If you try prying the tabs too far, they will either break off or tear the metal on the side of the trim ring. I use a rubber jar lid gripper to grasp the trim ring and twist because the ring and glass will usually be stuck on by the rubber sealing ring:

51XOTiSVt5L._SX342_.jpg
 
k thanks guys. It's all stuck together so a future task.
 
The rubber o-ring between the glass and the bazel deteriorates and tends to stick the two parts together.
 
David_Doan said:
Thanks Ray, some solutions are too obvious.... I was going to just skip those, but now it's too easy.

For the gasket inside the gauge that goes between the glass and the trim ring I used the ribbing that is used to hold screens in windows.
Click to expand...

Here's sources for the square profiled slip ring (p/n 27H406) that goes between the glass and the bazel.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-4-Squa...g-Seal-for-SMITHS-JAEGER-Gauges-/231003089300
https://www.nisonger.com/smiths-parts.htm

Also here's a good read on gauge restoration.

https://www.74tr6.com/gauges.htm
 
Tks
 
Rut said:
David,
Great job! When you cut out your gauge and switch holes use the 'pie' method and glue the strips to the inside of the dash. This will prevent the pulling you experience after the vinyl is stretched across the dash that makes the edges of the hole bunch up.
Rut
Click to expand...

Note: I tried the pie method on the fuel Gauge, the vinyl wrapped around the edge made the hole too small for the gauge. I went back and cut it flush with no issues. The same with all the other holes.

As others have said, you need a very small, very sharp knife. An X-Acto number 11 is perfect.
 
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