Considering this 72 RWA - opinions?

[RickB]

I've been talking to this guy, he's asking <span style="font-weight: bold">$850</span> and <span style="font-weight: bold">I'd really like to have an RWA car to work on</span>.

What do you guys think? I know I should go and check it over for rust and make sure it isn't about to fall apart - but this is a good price and <span style="font-weight: bold">he's willing to deliver</span>.

I already have a bunch of body parts off a 69 Midget and a couple hoods (bonnets) and a boot lid and a bunch of chrome bits & pieces etc...

Here's the ad he posted:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]
Nice little 4 cylinder ( 1275 cc) car that ran when I got it... This is a steel bumper car... not rubber bumpered..... has not been run since 1993... complete has some rust as pictured... floor pans are OK.... Was going to be my retirement project.... but I need the room....will consider delivery up to 60 miles..... fun cars to drive..... easy and fun restoration.

[/QUOTE]

 

[mrsprite]

As long as it isn't a rust box, I say go for it. You've already gotten used to beating your head against the wall with Frank and the MGB, so you have a good knot going and that's half the battle.


I've always like RWA Midgets......maybe one day I'll get one too (only dressed up as a Sprite :wink: ).

 

[198686d]

You will regret this.

 

[RickB]

198686d - why?

 

[v8mgbal]

Hey,ask if he will take 500.00 or less then it might be a good buy.

 

[pakiwi]

Rick,
Even at $500 are you willing to wait the time to take before you get the enjoyment out of the car. I know I enjoy working on the car, in some ways its my stress relief, but the exileration and fun comes from driving this baby. There is probably a good reason this car has sat for a long time, don't get me wrong, these are fun cars, but one needing alot of body work, may take a lot of time. If you have it and you can see your way through with it, go for it.
You may like to read this 5 year restoration project
https://webpages.charter.net/smsallen/Acquisition Story.html
Interested to hear your decision.
Allan

 

[RickB]

I don't see a lot of RWA cars come up for sale in the NW.
Lots of SWA cars, lots of rubber bumper cars and they usually are running and sell pretty cheap.
That said - yes if it's a rust bucket then I would pass and very quickly.
If the floors, sills, pillers, rockers are all good & solid metal and the engine turns over then I would be up for making him an offer.
That's a whole lotta "if".

 

[jaegzie]

what is the difference between RWA and SWA?

 

[JPSmit]

what is the difference between RWA and SWA?

RWA = Round (rear) Wheel Arch '72-74 I believe, the most desirable of the square body cars. SWA Square (rear) wheel arch - the rest of us.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

OK, JP, but I was going to answer "one letter"

 

[JPSmit]

:lol:

Well I was going to say that but then I noticed that jaegzie is a Freshman Member and since he is just new to the board I thought I would wait with the technical explanation until he was a little more comfortable, but, now you've gone and intimidated him. :banana:

 

[jaegzie]

I got it now, I am a little slow so dont be afraid to make fun of me now and again. I knew there was a difference, but just didnt know what it stood for. I even thought of editing it to say dont respond with one letter. Thanks for replying.

funny, my dad bought a rear clip a long time ago, one side of it to put on his sprite, got it home and realized it had the round arch, and couldnt use it.

 

[bill_young]

It's obviously been repainted and there are some visable rust issues, but for that price it is a RWA. Anyting between $500 and the $850 is probably a reasonable price if the floors and inner sills are in good shape.

 

[jaegzie]

Speaking of that I just bought a RWA :wink: for $125, I run across those quite a bit around here, but unless its a great great great deal, we usually pass. Even still I think $500 is decent either way. My 125 midget sat for 10 years outside on blocks, started right up, after cleaning it a little. If it basically complete go for it if nothing else, you may need something off it later.

 

[Atrus]

Interesting - I didn't realize that they went to RWA for only a couple of years and then returned to the SWA.

Anyone know why? Was there a reason, or just "because"?

By the way, I really appreciate the link that pakiwi posted. It both reassured me that I will eventually make it through all systems on my Sprite (I am doing a system-by-system approach to restoration), and it also provided me with a decent enough solution for mounting my radio in the dash. I was overcomplicating it by thinking I'd have to make a custom dash.

 

[drooartz]

They returned to the square arch to meet new rear collision strength laws at the same time they went to the rubber bumpers, if I remember properly.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Kevin,

All you need is a radio console. You can find them for $20-25 all the time on E-Bay. A standard Sony CD Player works great as long as you tilt the bottom out about 1/2" from stock. Careful measurement is the key. Now to find a place to mount the XM Radio in easy reach with readable disply. Thinking of some sort of custom bracket attached to the morror mount. Anyone done that yet?

 

[Atrus]

Kevin,

All you need is a radio console. You can find them for $20-25 all the time on E-Bay. A standard Sony CD Player works great as long as you tilt the bottom out about 1/2" from stock. Careful measurement is the key. Now to find a place to mount the XM Radio in easy reach with readable disply. Thinking of some sort of custom bracket attached to the morror mount. Anyone done that yet?

Jim - I actually have a radio console, and have two 3.5" tweeters wired in behind the grille. What I don't like is my JVC player doesn't sit flush, and it's kind of a pain with the shifter there. I can hardly get a disc in with no shifter boot on.

I have a dash that's not in the best condition, so I think I'll cut and put it in the dash for now. When I get to refurbishing the interior, I do plan on a custom dash due to some changes I am making in the car anyway. So, this should get me through quite easily and look <span style="font-style: italic">somewhat</span> acceptable in the meantime. Although not ideal, my goal for the summer is for it to look clean and be functional. I missed out on the entire driving season last year. :frown:

 

[bill_young]

The change to the RWA style was made about the time that the Sprite was dropped. I think it was something the MG people wanted to do for a while, but had to share the body with Austin Healey so couldn't get the change made then. It did coincide with the more performance type styling from most manufacturers in the 70s. Made them for a little over 3 years and then had to go back to the SWA style to meet safety collision standards.

 

[BugEyeBear]

I actually PREFER the look of the SWA cars over the RWA cars (other than the BugEye, of course). But maybe that's just me...

SWAs do limit ones tire/wheel options a little, but nothing that can't be lived with...
...unless you are racing.
My '65 SCCA Sprite has significantly flared SWAs (glass), & my '62 Vintage Racer has SWAs that have been "tugged" out to provide increased clearance (while still conforming to SVRA & HSR requirements to use "stock" fenders).

THAT SAID, I did just acquire a '66 SWA in AZ that came with a '73 RWA "parts" car.
IF the '73 is solid it'll probably become a racer one day...

-Bear-