Choke is sticking ???

[George Zeck]

Hi All -

After close examination of my carbs - I have noticed that the front jet is sticking (actually stuck). This forces the choke to either be 100% on or 100% off. Either way - bad.

I am not sure what to do. I've tried - gently - to remove the jet from the 'spring nut' it is inside of (& just put into place 10 min ago with a brand new jet) and cannot.

Options:

A) Do you think it will free up once I put it on the car and fuel runs through and loosens (it's stuck, not sticking) / SU Fluid.

B) The 'spring nut' (actually named 'jet bearing kit' has become out of round and also needs replaced?

C) Lube the heck out of it (wouldn't gasoline neutralize anything I use ??).

D) ????

The rear doesn't return real easy either (however it does move with a reasonable amount of pressure).

I also noticed that my choke linkage is not equal. Meaning the nuts are locke at different places - seems strange and impossible to make "balanced" if the two are not equal ?? Does anyone know if this is normal, or should I adjust??

Thanks all -

George

 

[George Zeck]

Can anyone help here? I'm really stuck.

George

 

[jlaird]

George, you need to read the manual and understand how those are rebuilt and adjusted. The subject is a bit long for this forum, I mean pages.

A good cleaning, disassembly, rebuilding and tuneing is about all you really need. Sounds like dirt, old fuel, and worn parts. the locknuts in different places is part of the balanceing process.

 

[DrEntropy]

They're always "fiddly" to get centered. The best way to do this is also the longest... are they on the engine or benched? They need to be done off the car so you can deal with fitting/centering the jets independent of linkages, awkward access, et al. If you can get your hands on an SU "toolkit" with the little "anvil" in it, you'd be miles ahead. It's a pin with two different diameter ends, one to be trapped in the piston in place of the needle, the other JUST fits the jet I.D... With jet all the way flush to the "bridge" and the piston down, the jet and sleeve are easily located in proper alignment to tighten the outer "gland nut" on the jet sleeve.

 

[64rocksprite]

George,
Does sound like you're in for a removal and disassembly/cleaning. Determine if anything is worn. If nothing is worn or gummed up, as the "Doc" indicated, it could be as simple as the jets are not centered.

 

[George Zeck]

Hi All -

Carbs are off the car and have been rebuilt about 3 years ago (7k in miles since then). Think the brass fitting on top of the "jet bearing assy" is out of wack. Will try new ones - maybe bite the bullet for a Weber. I can't help but think these SU's are a "black magic" to get working properly.

George

 

[jlaird]

Stick with the SUs and make it sing. Yep the learning curve is a pita but boy are they nice when they are right.

May I suggest that if you can afford it that you have Hap rebuild them.

 

[John Kuzman]

George -

I will not argue with the statement that Hap's SU re-builds are some of the best around, but there is somebody right in your neighborhood that does a decent job on SU carbs. Take a look here:

https://www.paltech1.com/

 

[jlaird]

Oh, think I would prob go to the local guy so I could take em in.

 

[pbraun]

Who is Hap? I recognize the name but forget

 

[JPSmit]

Who is Hap? I recognize the name but forget

Hap Waldrop, Acme Speed Shop, Taylors SC

Home - My website

MG Triumph go fast goodies

www.acmespeedshop.com

 

[SaxMan]

Stick with the SUs. When you finally get them dialed in properly, it makes a world of difference...and is worth the effort. Removing and replacing the carbs is not difficult and it makes it a LOT easier to work on when you have them on a bench.