Checking a ribcase transmission

[drooartz]

Okay, I've got two ribcase tranmissions to choose from for the Tunebug. I've got new transmission mounts and a gasket kit handy, but I'm not sure what else to do by way of inspection.

One of the transmissions is the original one that came with the 1275 block I'm using. The other is a slightly earlier model (no reverse light switches). Both were described as in good shape when I acquired them, but I'm not sure anyone ever went through them.

So what do I do? I've never been inside a transmission before.

 

[spritenut]

First, wiggle the input shaft, it will move some but it should not be real loose.
Replace the tail shaft seal just because it's easy when the tranny is out of the car. It is crimped on, a cut off wheel will slice it in half or beat it off with a dull screw driver.
Dimple the new one back in 3 places with a dull screw driver.
Open up the side cover, watch for the 2 springs that will pop up when you open it.
Remove the cover slowly, the springs will stay there.
Look at first gear and the lay gear for signs of wear, double check the lock bolts on the shifter forks, they do come loose, I think an 11/32 nut driver fits the small head and then 7/16 for the lock nut.
To measure wear on the cones, you need to have the trans apart but you can look for chips or rust on the cones and any chipped or worn teeth.

 

[bugimike]

I would suggest you also check on reverse gear as they often show a fair amount of wear! I would go with the tranny with the reverse switch, all things being equal (You could actually switch parts from that tranny to the other if the other is better!). I added a back-up light to my BE and have found it to be really handy on the rare occasion when one is backing up at night!