Center rod, bracket and mirror info needed

[Michael Oritt]

I need some measurements of and information about the Spridget's "center rod", the "bracket" for it and the mirror that mounts to it, as shown on page 55 of the Moss Spridget catalogue.

1. What are the dimensions of the upper bracket (part nos. 19 and 20)?
2. How long are the rods (part nos. 26 and 28) and how do they attach to the car at their lower end?
3. How is tension applied to the rod to make it "tighter"?
4. How exactly does the interior mirror (part no. 35) attach to the rod and does it slide up and down on it? Also what is the diameter of the rod?

Thanks in advance.

 

[zabond]

on my 65 midget the rod is 3/16" dia & 12.1/2" long, the top bracket is 2.1/2"w x 3/4"deep and 1" out from frame, the mirror clamps to the rod and can be slid up/down, the rod tension is by the top acorn nut the rod goes through the bottom bracket then through the top bracket held in by the acorn[dome]nut. hope this helps
Russ

 

[Michael Oritt]

Russ--

This information is most helpful. I frequent the "Big Healey" forum and too often a "stranger" to a forum, particularly one with a car of different marque/model, is at best simply told to go elsewhere or at worst gets ignored. Because my Elva Courier uses a lot of spridget running gear I have on several occasions posted questions to the Spridget forum asking about a part, etc. I seldom received any replies and in any case I appreciate your responding to this request.

FYI I am inquiring because I would like to change the way the rearview mirror on my AH 100 is mounted and at the same time exert a better downward clamping force against the windshield frame. I am currently using a piece of SS 1x19 wire between the scuttle and the hardtop and the spridget mirror rod should not only allow me to exert more force but also provide a way to mount the mirror a bit higher and out of my line of sight forward.

 

[nomad]

I don't know how you could do this without negating the fold down screen arrangement on your 100.

 

[Michael Oritt]

Nomad--

To each his own but I really enjoy the car a lot more with a top in place--either soft or hard--and so does my wife. I installed the car's hardtop (shown below) about ten years ago and the car is way more comfortable at speed and a lot more air and water tight. I am still working on getting the side curtains to fit a bit better but this is, after all, an English roadster.

You're correct about the windshield but as far as I am concerned the 100's fold-down windshield serves no purpose except to wow the crowds at static car shows and I stopped attending them a number of years ago. That said, if for any reason I want to remove the top it is a simple matter of releasing four clamps and the tensioner rod will also be easy to undo, etc.

I see you are from South Dakota. Back in 2005 or so when AHCA Conclave was in Austin, Texas I drove my 100 from my home in Maryland across the Michigan UP and out to Bismark, then took a left and proceeded down to SD, out to the Black Hills and on to Texas. I am seriously thinking of doing the trip again to attend this year's Conclave in September. Perhaps our paths will cross....

 

[HealeyRick]

Michael,
,
I did something similar to what you are thinking of. I used the base and windshield mount and rod from an MGB and a day-night mirror from an E-Type (repro, it was pretty inexpensive). I did this because I didn't like the way the rear view mirror sat with the convertible top up. I did have to drill the windshield frame and pop rivet the top mount on and the mirror mount had to be shimmed as the rod wasn't thick enough. The mirror does not slide up and down, but I find the day-night feature is more of a benefit than the ability to adjust vertically.

 

[Michael Oritt]

Rick--

I actually started on this path a number of years back before I purchased my hardtop. My goal was to provide more clamping force on the front bow of the convertible top than was possible using the standard fittings that go to the windshield pillars.

I used some 1 x 19 SS wire and onto one end I swedged a threaded terminal rod while to the other I swedged a jawed terminal. I attached the jawed terminal to the middle triangular buffer that goes to the center of the 100's front bow. Then I drilled a small hole (3/16") in the scuttle in front of the rear view mirror, passed the threaded terminal down through the hole and pulled the top down against the windshield frame by using a knurled nut. This works quite well and with the proper rubber seal the top does not leak in the rain, at least along the top of the windshield. Both fittings are made by Johnson rigging and they and the wire can be purchased at West Marine stores.

When I installed the hardtop I adapted the above setup to it and that is how things now stand but I would like to use solid rod versus wire in part for esthetics and mainly to get the mirror off the scuttle where it is prone to vibrate and also get it out of my forward sightline. I like the concept of a day/night mirror. I also like your work and in any case this is another example demonstrating that I simply have too much time on my hands....

 

[nomad]

Michael
I plan on being in the Black Hill's for the Conclave this fall. I'll be in a little Healey....A red Mk3. Datsun repowered. Always did like the 100-4 but prefer the Sprite's for their "toss-ability".

Kurt

 

[nomad]

I should elaborate. By "toss-ability" I suppose that I mean that they are easy to throw around but also I like the size since there is more room on the road to throw them around. I'm currently working on a Lotus Elan that fits that description as well.

Anyway, I'll be keeping my eyes open for your red 100-4 this fall.The beer is on me!