I've tried the solder trick, and decided it was counter-productive in the long run. The problem is that the surface of the solder creates a point where the least little vibration in the wire (and what TR3 doesn't vibrate?) will flex the copper far enough to work harden and eventually break. I literally wound up with a solder blob trapped under the screw, and nearly all of the strands broken at the surface of the solder. The bare wire seemed to fare better, at least for me. If you still want to use solder, only solder the very tip of the wire (to keep it from fraying) so that part of the pinch screw still rests on bare wire. Adding heat shrink tubing such that it comes right to the edge of the screw seems to help, but of course doesn't look original.
Those 'Lucar' connectors can be troublesome too. Just a few weeks ago, I found that part of my OD failure on the TR3 was caused by one of those quick connects getting loose over time. Had that problem on one of the Stags too, which was a royal pain to find. That quick connect wasn't loose enough to pull off, just loose enough that it could sometimes vibrate and not make good connection. (I'm sure the oil blowing back from the engine didn't help either.) The OD would just randomly jump out of overdrive, then later back in. I was literally in the process of replacing the solenoid (since everything else had checked out good even during the failure), when I noticed there was just a tiny bit of play in the solenoid ground lead.