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Bugeye ignition combination switch

TulsaFred

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ok
my switch is boogered up.
I see I can get a new switch at Victoria British, but I don't see the plastic "knob" available.
Can it be found?

I also can't figure out how to get the knob off the switch or how to disassemble the switch to try to fix the internals.
Ideas?

thanks!
Fred
 

Gerard

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There is a little round button you need to push in to remove the knob. Same scenario with the tumbler. You will see a small hole on the body of the switch once you have it out. you'll need a probe long enough to reach the release. Depending on condition and your skill level, the switch may be repairable. You have to gently pry out the metal tangs that hold the bakelite base.
 
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TulsaFred

TulsaFred

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thanks Gerard,

I saw the little hole and probed/released it, I think. But I can back the bakelite knob out by prying it only about a quarter inch. It then hangs up and won't go further.

I also don't see how the lock cylinder comes out?

Fred
 
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TulsaFred

TulsaFred

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BTW I was able to get the back of the switch off by removing the circlip at the center and bending the 3 tabs out.

Fred

If anyone has a combo switch knob, or the whole shebang, let me know...
 

Gerard

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I'll take a look when I have a chance... I'm tied up this week, but will get back to you as soon as I can.
 
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TulsaFred

TulsaFred

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I ordered a new switch, knob, and lock cylinder from Moss.
"Classic Gold" Brand.
About $100 including shipping for the parts.

The barrel on the new switch is slightly smaller than original, causing the switch to rotate in the dash, since the locating tabs do not engage the slots in the dash as intended. Perhaps some electical tape around the barrel would aid for a kludgy partial fix.

The retaining clip is just not correct and will not hold the switch in the dash as intended. Perhaps some careful rebending of the wire clip could make it work.

The knob has a small hole that engages a pin on the barrel of the cylinder to retain. You push in the pin with a narrow wire tool and then pull the knob off. On the new knob the hole is not drilled precisely, so the pin will not engage it and therefore will not hold the knob on. Redrilling the hole may work, but will, of course, mess up the look of the nice new knob.

Because of all these issues, I am debating trying to salvage my old switch which will take some work and may not in the end be successful, versus modifying the new parts to try to correct the problems. It's a tough choice, because the new parts do look good and cosmetically very original in appearance.

Alternatively, I may research whether there are any other suppliers that may have better quality reproductions. If anyone knows of any please let me know.

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200y353.jpg

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2wdowmq.jpg
 

smaceng

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I bought one from Moss last year, and so far it has been ok. I added relays to take the current off the contacts the this is what I did as shown below, to hold it into the dash. Mine had the small "key" to fit into the dash to prevent rotation.
Scott in CA
 

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TulsaFred

TulsaFred

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Scott,

Maybe Moss changed suppliers. Is yours "classic gold" brand or some other?

The Classic Gold has tabs similar but not identical to the original switch I have. They are designed to fit into the 2 slots on the dash (they are small squared notches in the circumference of the dash hole 180 degrees from one another). The problem is that since the barrel is slightly smaller diameter, the tabs don't engage the slots.

In your pic it looks like you may have run into similar problems. Since the wire retaining clip is not configured correctly, it looks like you substituted the ever-useful hose clamp.

Also in your pic, there appears to be two black "gaskets" or spacers of some sort between the hose clamp and the dash. This is a fix I envisioned as well. Difficult to explain, but the "tabs", in addition to having problems engaging related to barrel diameter, also are only "bulges" in the metal barrel, like little bumps instead of something more like a "key" (as in a woodruff key) on the original. The bumps are located slightly too far out from the thin metal dash. They come back almost flush with the barrel as they approach the bezel of the switch (where they actually engage the dash slots) compounding the problem of lack of engagement. A spacer or hard gasket would effectively "thicken" the metal dash, potentially allowing the "bumps" to engage and stop the rotation.

Fred
 

smaceng

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Fred,
At the time I purchased my switch, Moss did not have the so-called installation clip. So I was on my own. I had heard from other people on the forum of the use of the screw clamp. Many had said the original clip was next to worthless. The problem I had was the clamp did not fit flush all around due to the tabs. Thus what I did is to install some spacers (made from electrical conduit washers) to space the clamp out until it was flush against the washers. I notched the washers to clear the tabs. Hope that helps. Fits fine now.
Scott in CA
 

jlaird

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It all works properly if it is orginal stuff. Shrug.

Call Moss monday and ask for tech assistance. They good folks and will be pleased to hear from you.

Miss Agatha has an orginal with a new plastic part.

yep is a square O ring between the chrome shroud and the dash. Yes I said a square o ring. Not hard to find.
 
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TulsaFred

TulsaFred

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I spent most of the day fixing my original switch. I think this qualifies me as clinically insane.

I think I have it, but won't know for sure if it's really back together correctly until I test it. Seems to turn and "click" correctly.

I had to use bondo to repair an internal plastic part that had broken (bakelite actually). It is the part that the lock cylinder fits into. I didn't know exactly how to remove the cylinder and my brute force method left some unfortunate after-effects. Seems like the bondo repair worked.

Then had to use a dremel to remove a frozed/rusted terminal screw that would come loose with PB blaster and a big screwdriver. My cheap little Harbor freight dremel finally ground the screw away enough that it gave up.

The biggest issue is the complexity of all the internal parts. There's a bunch of 'em, including multiple springs, rotating cylinder, inner rotating cylinder, lock cylinder, a steel ball with another tiny spring, etc., etc.

I painted my original knob, but the repro knob actually looks very good so I may use it. Of course, it does have the incorrectly drilled hole, so I'll either have to modify that or exchange it for another new one that was hopefully fabricated by a more careful Chinese worker.

One little part, lots of time...oh well, I guess that's the "fun" of this hobby, right?
 

jlaird

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Yea it is but just think, your rebuilt part is now good for another 50 years.
 
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