Bugeye heater cable alternative

[The_architect]

Hello fellows.

First time posting here, but I've been lurking awhile and appreciate the depth of knowledge and degree of helpfulness I've seen here.

I need a new cable for my Bugeye heater door--as all of you know, the originals are infamously NLA. What are people using as an alternative? I see there is a Triumph TR6 cable that "looks" like it "might" work. I'd like to use the old knob, of course.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
The Architect

 

[The_architect]

No one ever had to come up with a substitute for the not-to-be-obtained Bugeye heater cable/switch? I don't believe it. C'mon. What did you use?

Thanks in advance!

The Architect

 

[JPSmit]

a lot of folk just go to a bicycle shop and get stuff made up - not sure how it attaches though

 

[ichthos]

I am facing the same problem in my restoration. AH Spares stated to me they are currently speaking to a vendor to produce heater switches but could not tell me a date these might be available. In the meantime, I have to fix the one I have. On mine, the switch and knob work, but the cable and sheath are not repairable. The cable and sheath are rusted, and the sheath is also crushed so that the cable can not be pulled out. I am going to carfully cut out the sheath and then try and remove the cable. I will then weld in the new sheath in place and then put the old cable back in. Even if I am not successful getting the cable out in tact, a new cable with a small ball on the end does not seem that difficult to make.

 

[RonMacPherson]

If you can get the cable and sheath off, take it to a lawnmower repair shop. They can usually make you one up no problem...

 

[ichthos]

Does anyone happen to have the correct length for the cable and sheath?
Kevin

 

[The_architect]

Kevin,
I have watched your posts with great interest, since I am also rewiring my bugeye right now.

I have been thinking one of these heater cables for the TR6 would work: from Moss TR6 catalog. But, someone would have to actually look at one of them to see. It looks like there are three sizes. Maybe one could be cut down if it is too long.

Thanks to all for your ideas.

The Architect

 

[ichthos]

I finally did get everything wired. Of course I won't know for sure how well I did until I get power. Everyone was so nice to help me out. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be once I broke it down one part at a time (as a few members suggested) and studied the wiring diagram. Let me know if you have any problems. I think there are three of us that have or are in the process of doing this recently.

I was going to leave the heater cable until last, but your questions inspired me to start in on mine a little sooner. I actually have access to another heater cable I will not be able to get to for another week. I have no idea if it is operational or not. I am hoping someone will let me know the exact lengths of the sheath and cable itself before then. If you can wait a week or two, I should have mine repaired, and I will let you know what I did and how I did it. I am pretty much a novice at this, but it does not look that difficult to repair. I forgot to ask - did you test the electrical portion of the switch itself to see if it works?
Kevin

 

[The_architect]

HI Kevin,
Well, my problem is that I only get to work on my car for long weekends every few months. Its not in the state where I live. I don't seem to get very far--I seem to waste a whole day working on things that I didn't anticipate being a problem at all--like spending a day rewiring my fuel pump during the negative ground conversion--i would just be able to switch positive and negative terminals, but there are no terminals. I get there and it doesn't have terminals! Everything seems to fight me. Wouldn't you think you could get the wiper boxes replaced in a half hour? Not me.

Obviously if you turned wrenches every day you would get to be quick at this.

I did test my heater cable switch. Cosmetically it looks fine, but the switch doesn't work. Someone had already put a separate heater blower switch in, and I think I prefer that. I had someone tell me that you could pry back the tabs on those switches and possibly repair them, but I ran out of time before I got that far.

I'm pretty good with wiring. I have done a couple of tractors, and their circuits are almost exactly like a Bugeye's except for the lighting, horn and a few other things. With the Bugeye and those Lucar connectors are so many places where a hot wire could touch a ground (the rear lights are a good example) I think I may temporarily wire in some fuses so if there is a short somewhere I won't smoke the wiring the first time I feed power to the circuits.

Best,

Charlie The Architect

 

[ichthos]

I have the same problem as you. I am limited on the time I have, and it always takes ten times longer than I expect it to take. It doesn't help that I have to learn how to do most of what I have done on this car. After many years, I am hoping my car will be fully restored and running this summer. The only other car I rewired was my TR6, but the wiring diagram was much easier for me to understand. I plan on putting in a fuse when I first add power also.

I know you said you would rather leave the set up for your heater the way it is, but it might be worth repairing in case you change your mind in the future. My brother is an electrical engineer. He has easily and quickly fixed a couple of swithes on my British cars. I was too chicken to experiment with them myself. I am sure there must be some one near you that could look at the switch for you.

If you are just going to add a cable for your heater, a number of members have stated that all they did was to get one of those add on choke cable kits. I know the JC Witney used to carry these. I will still post picks if I repair mine back to stock condition. Good luck with your cable.

Kevin

 

[The_architect]

Kevin,
Thanks. If I get it apart and get it fixed I'll take some photos too.

I guess it was not apparent from my first post that all I was looking for was an alternative to the original cable--such as a choke cable. I didn't think I would find a cable with an integral switch.

Best,
The Architect.

 

[Dug]

Kevin,
Posting here because you asked here (keeping the thread in mind). Measuring a switch in the garage its sheath is 15-1/2" in length. That measurement is from the point it necks down. The cable extends 2-1/4" in the closed position past the sheath.
In lurking around the garage, I found another switch that is identical with one very cool difference; it’s 57” long!! So there is another car that used the very same switch! What is it (insert shrug)? but this switch does exists in a longer length that can be cut down.

Kevin, I’ll email you pictures of the longer one besides the sprite one. I’ll start to look at some of my books on Big Healey’s or jag “or”??

Dug

 

[Whitephrog]

My NOS heater switch is just over 27 inches long tip of knob to end of cable. The cable itself is about 24 inches. Part Number is 13H55 for both LHD and RHD. Moss Europe says the overall length is 28 inches. Ashely Hinton is a recent ebay listing wrote "We have now got the OE tools to make the heater switch assembly 13H55 13H57 AHA8317 and AHA8417".

 

[Dug]

Ray,
Good to know, mine doesn’t look shortened but that doesn’t mean it hasn’t.

At the very end of your NOS switch‘s sheath, does it appear to be tapered? I’m referring to the last wound band.
I did not check in any of the AKD books to see if there were revisions along chassis numbers. Still haven't found what car the 57" long switch is from.

Dug

 

[Whitephrog]

Sheathing has a "finished "end. Cable extends about 2 1/4 inches beyond the end of the sheathing.

 

[ichthos]

I hope I am not moving this thread away from The Architect's original needs. I think he still needs specifics from one of you that are using as separate cable for the heater.

Thanks for all the information. I wasn't sure if the sheath on mine had been cut down, but it measured 15 3/8" from the tapered part to the end before I cut it off. The end of the cable wire was definitley cut or broke off. Since the end was not finished, I am hoping the 15 1/2" is correct. I was kind of suprised that the "cable" was in fact just a wire. I have access to another heater cable I hope to pull out this weekend. It looks very rusty, but I hope to use it as a reference. Is my best bet still a lawn mower shop for the cable and sheath? The tapered end is recessed and the sheath fits into this. Would it work to just solder it in place? Any other ideas?
Kevin

 

[Whitephrog]

See if these photos help.

www.spritespot.com/gallery/view_photo.ph...ch_cable_end002

www.spritespot.com/gallery/view_photo.ph...amp;id=DSC00787

 

[ichthos]

Thanks for the picks. I am still envious of your NOS heater cable. Where did you pick it up from? I have never even seen one of those offered on Ebay before.
Kevin

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Ashley Hinton better get crack'in on those cables. I'll be needing one soon.

 

[ichthos]

Sorry, I am ignorant. Who is Ashley Hinton, and how did they get ahold of the original tooling? Any idea why it is taking so long to reproduce this part?
Kevin