Broken Heater Control Tap [valve]

[jharrison77]

<span style="text-decoration: underline">1967 Austin Healey MKIII BJ8 3000</span>

Hello... new to BCF. My apologies if this is an existing topic somewhere (I couldn't locate any discussions). Last night, I stupidly broke my heater control tap (well, actually just the small post snapped off in my fingers). I'm looking to replace... does anyone recommend Moss ($90) for this replacement or should I search elsewhere? Would need a gasket too I suppose. I have not had to replace this part yet... I'm assuming a coolant drain would be in order before the replacement? The more I look at it, I wonder if that post was threaded into the ball valve? Photo below... Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Keoke]

I wonder if that post was threaded into the ball valve?--

Drain the coolant


Would need a gasket too I suppose.---YES

I have not had to replace this part yet... I'm assuming a coolant drain would be in order before the replacement?--Yes Thanks for any help

Depending on how it is broken it may be reparable:
For example a broken handle can sometimes be repaired.--Keoke :laugh:

 

[Fairview]

I have a thread on here somewhere for repairing the broken handle. Let me try to find it for you.

Jeff

Here you go, I don't know what became of my pictures.

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...LVE_#Post814809

Somehow the link to my photos was lost, so if you'd like to see them, go to my smugmug Healey pictures. The relevant ones are on the second page. Here is that link:

https://milepost105.smugmug.com/Cars/1963-Austin-Healey-3000-Mk-II/20205222_MMmxL3

 

[dougsmarkIII]

The handle on my BJ8 valve was broken off and missing. I removed the valve and drilled a hole where the handle was. I found in my junk tray an old brass sink stopper pull-up. The diameter of the brass was a good size for a new valve handle. I cut off a piece of the pull-up the right length, and tapered one end with a power grinder. A file also would do the job.

I took the valve apart and using a propane torch and plumber's solder and some flux, I soldered the new handle into the valve. Next step was cleaning and polishing the sealing tapered hole and plug. Applied little plumber's grease on the parts and reassembled the valve.

Installed it with new antifreeze and it works great.

Doug

 

[tonyk]

I had this problem recently.

As noted above you can carefully drill out the tap handle threads and just replace the handle. Available cheaply here(I'm in the UK) but maybe US suppliers carry these items -after all AH Spares supplies "the usual suspects" all over the world.

https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/...heater-tap.aspx

Keeps an authentic look. Less chance of the bond snapping again. If the threads are damaged then just epoxy it in.

BTW, if you take the valve mechanism apart be careful - there is a tiny cotter pin holding in a small brass retainer plate and a strong steel spring - Don't lose these bits!!

I took it off because the tap barrel was seized. It's brass so cleans up easily.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Anyone know of a source for the handle on the block drain? Mine fell out (next one will have red threadlocker on the threads).

It may be possible to get the remnants of the broken lever out with a left-handed drill bit and/or one of the bolt remover kits.

 

[jharrison77]

Great! Thanks for all the help guys! :thumbsup:

 

[dougsmarkIII]

Appears the handle breaks off right at the threaded part where it enters the valve. Believe my repair using a solid piece of brass rod soldered into a hole drilled into the valve will be stronger.

A new manufactured handle will have the same weakness as the original.

Doug

 

[Bob_Spidell]

True. But I think the best preventative is to shoot a little penetrating oil into the valve and work it back-and-forth a couple times a year.

If only I could remember to follow my own advice.

 

[steveg]

If you want a non-concours version that won't break, drill out the threads and re-tap for 10-32 and use part of a stainless Allen screw as the handle. Doesn't look exactly right but won't break.