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Brass in steering box - GL5 danger?

Jim Lee

Jedi Trainee
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Perusing the forums I realized I should not have put the 90wt oil, that is probably GL5 in my differential, non od gearbox and steering box. The differential and the transmission are no problem to drain and refill but draining and refilling the steering box is going to require some pumping which I would rather not do if I do not have to. Anyone know if GL5 is going to do any damage to my steering box if I don't suck it out and put some GL4, assuming I can find it, in there?

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee
 

SkinnedKnuckles

Jedi Trainee
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I seriously doubt that the temperature in the steering box is high enough for sulfur corrosion to occur. I didn't think those parts were brass/bronze, either, and if not no corrision.
 
OP
J

Jim Lee

Jedi Trainee
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Thanks.
That sounds good to me.
I just put the apron back on and I was not looking forward to getting that fluid that I just put in there out. Just out of curiosity, how many out there have had the same experience I had and opened that box after who knows how many years to find it with no fluid apparent? There might have been some in the very bottom of the box but then again there might not have been.

Thanks,
Jim Lee
 

Tinkerman

Darth Vader
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Jim, I have a 60 TR3A and like most everything in the car the steering box was pretty much dry. Besides that it had a factory defect in that the peg was not staked adequately so that it moved and ate up the worm gear or cam as it is called. I really think there is a problem with the gasketing system on the steering box. I put mine back together and filled it with the correct oil and it leaked out. I will have to address that when I get the frame back (at the body shop now). Perhaps someone out thare has some thoughts and/or experience with this apparent problem. Oh by the way those parts are not brass/bronze, rather some sort of white metal casting so I woouldn't worry about the sulpher problem.
Cheers, Tinkerman
 

Don Elliott

Obi Wan
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It is possible to end uo with a bent top cover plate if the adjusting nut for the peg it tightened down too tightly. The distortion can bow up this cover and it will leak.
 

sp53

Yoda
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I just finished rebuilding a steering box for 1958 tr3. They are a little more difficult because in getting them out one has to take off the front apron because off the long column, but I needed to have a repair made in there anyway. I found a stock pullback tie that goes in the center of the apron at the bottom and then attaches back to the frame on that center bracket. I had broken mine off at the frame years ago. Evidently, Moss does not have a number for them (weird). Yes the steering box can leak from a number of spots. In addition, in the shim pack there is almost always one or two brass shims and the main shaft bushing is brass. I do not know about the brass sulfur problem because I never experienced it before. Anyway, I use the same stuff that I put in the rear axle; I think it is Castro oil 90-70. Yes I would say that it is about 50/50 dry or wet, I prefer the wet. Sometimes they leak out at the: brass nut and olive at the center end (where the wires come out), sometimes at the bottom seal where the pitman attaches, sometimes at multiply points in the shim back (if someone loosened the bolts) sometime the top cover (Don made a good point) and some times a combination. The point is they need fluid. If the fluid runs out and you do not want to do a bunch of work; you can use packing crease. Just fill it up with that and it will at least have some lube.
If you want to rebuild the steering box and do it proper, the units are like most things on a tr3, simple and beautiful. The hard part is getting the pitman arm off once you have removed the box. You need quality pullers, but it is just one bolt. Moreover, the project is one of those rebuilds that when you are done the guts are not too tight or not too looses. I use Indian Head gasket sealer on the shim pack and to top cover. I usually have the brass bushing pressed in and honed at a machine shop. However, the next bushing I am going to do myself; it does not look that difficult. I was just going drive the new one in and push the old one out at the same time then get a horn and do it myself. Once I used packing grease on the shims and that sealed. Most people are not familiar with that old trick, but for example, if you put a healthy bead of packing grease, on say a valve cover; it will seal and not leak and come off easy.
Good luck in advance Sp53
 

YankeeTR

Luke Skywalker
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I'd be afraid of using anything branded "Indian Head"...not politcally correct...hahaha
 

Keoke

Great Pumpkin
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--- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif sp53, No grease in the steering box, The gears will push it aside and they will run essentially dry. This is why the grease fittings of yesteryear on the steering box disappeared a long time ago.---Fwiw---Keoke
 
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