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Brake woes

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Dennis P

Jedi Hopeful
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Hello and help!!!! Rebuilt entire brake system. Nothing that has not been replaced. Bleeding brakes and onle get fluid from front. Fluid became free of air and clean, quickly. Cannot get fluid from either rear, pedal does not move down when opening rear bleed screws. Pedal does not return to top, when release. About an inch shy of top, but firm. B is a 70 with the dual mc. How do I proceed???? Thanks DennisP
 
Dennis...check your metal brake lines...are either crimped..one of the typical things that happens if an MG is towed is that the wrecker guy tosses a big hook over the rear axle & crimps the brake lines to where fluid can't flow.

Another thing you could do is open brake line at rear before the 3-way connector & up front at brake switch & body assembly & try to blow air through it...or, open front & rear as described & also in the middle at the rear pipe connector & try to blow air both ways through the pipes.
 
Tony's advise is good, but if you are getting air through the pipes then the next step is the M/C.
Check that all the rubber seals are placed in the M/C barrel the correct way round.
Good Luck
Mike
 
WOW! Thanks, Mike - 3 times worth!
 
When you say everthing is new dose that mean new or rebuilt. Does it include the hoses, mastercyl, wheel cyl, springs, and so forth?
confused.gif
 
on a 79 which line from the m/c goes to the rear? I'm having the same trouble with ol rusty and I know the lines aren't crimped
 
how about making sure that the m/c is getting Full actuation at the pedal. and that it was bench bled correctly?
just a thought

Mark

[ 09-16-2003: Message edited by: SilentUnicorn ]</p>
 
Tony's advise is good, but if you are getting air through the pipes then the next step is the M/C.
Check that all the rubber seals are placed in the M/C barrel the correct way round.
Good Luck
Mike
 
Tony's advise is good, but if you are getting air through the pipes then the next step is the M/C.
Check that all the rubber seals are placed in the M/C barrel the correct way round.
Good Luck
Mike
 
Master cyl was rebuild and worked fine on my 73, before car totalled. Wheel cyl are new, as well as all lines and fittings. Got pedal to return to top by loosening over tight pedal shaft and lubing! Still unable to bleed and pedal does not go dowwn when opening rear bleeders, remains hard. No visible kinks, will check lines are not clogged. Thanks, will post resoloution. If it ain't one thing, it's another, Roseanna Rosanadanna!
 
Lemme ask another dumb question: When you put the car in neutral in your garage, can you push it forward easily?
 
Hi Tony, Yes, she rolls and hit brake pedal and she stops,front brakes only. Rears, naturally, do not work,yet. Brakes release instantly, witth release of brake pedal. PS, Check is in the mail 9really!!
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dennis P:
Still unable to bleed and pedal does not go dowwn when opening rear bleeders, remains hard. No visible kinks, will check lines are not clogged. Thanks, will post resoloution. If it ain't one thing, it's another, Roseanna Rosanadanna!<hr></blockquote>
This may be a dumb question, if so tell me.
If the front brakes are fully adjusted & bled, why should the pedal go down? It would defeat the purpose of the dual cylinder. Try opening the front bleeders while you bleed the rear. Make sure that the front reservoir (back brakes) really is full.
D
 
I am not sure if the B's have a similar device to the midgets. it does, i just looked it up, But where the brake light pressure switch screws into the brass (or cast) what moss calls the switch assembly. since you have pressure to the front and none to the rear. The shuttle valve inside the body would be pushed off center and possible blocking the fluid to the rear brakes.

Also a vacuum bleader is worth the money. it helps bleeding brakes, makes it a one man job. it also allows you to see by the vacuum gage if you are drawing air anywhere. if all is tight and there are no leaks the vacuum will drop slowly as fluid is pulled through the lines, if it drops quickly then you may have a leak (air) somewhere.

Mark

[ 09-17-2003: Message edited by: SilentUnicorn ]

[ 09-17-2003: Message edited by: SilentUnicorn ]</p>
 
SilentUnicorn...that's why I assked the question...if the assembly was bad, the car wouldn't roll freely in neutral.
 
That year B doesn't have a rear brake pressure limit switch, does it? If so, that could be the problem.
If not, I'd suspect the single rear flex line (even if new, it could have failed internally....I had one "fairly new" that did that and acted "plugged").
...or, bleed the master cylinder by loosing the pipes that go into it (while holding the pedal down)...are you getting fluid shooting out if you do this?
 
Dennis...if she rolls in neutral, we know the brake switch & body assembly is working properly....if you're still not getting fluid to the rear, its got to be behind that...so, focus on lines/setup from body assembly rearward.
 
I had the same thing happen on my Midget. The single rear hose collapsed internally and folded in on itself. No fluid would flow through it.
 
Hi, Well, plenty to check and loads of good advice. Will begin after hurricane passes. Hope B does not blow away. Dennis
 
Hi, Can't take suspense. Went out ot follow suggestions, before storm hits. Well, disconnected brake line for rears at the master cylender. Guess what. No fluid comes out of rear port, none in it when I opened it, none when I pump brakes. There is fluid leaking out of the front of the mc where the plunger inserts. Well, problem quickly found. Now I need more money. Who has the most reliable MC for sale, whether new or used. Brakes, as we all agree are the most vital part of a reebuild. Thanks all for the help. The more problems I encounter, the more knowledgeable I become. Am tired and broke from getting so smart!!!!
 
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