Brake Master Cylinder R&R

[Bruce74B]

I finally broke down and bought a new master cylinder for my 74 B. It has been years since I did this job, so I got out the Bently and read that they say to drain and remove the CLUTCH master cylinder, too and then remove both MCs along with the pedals. This makes sense, if everything was pristine on a 35 YO car, but I am not thrilled about messing with the clutch slave and bleeder. SO, my question is "is it necessary?" Is it possible to leave the clutch MC in place and slide the brake master cylinder and mounting bracket out over the end of the clutch MC? Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.

Bruce

 

[Scott_Hower]

Yes it is possible, no you do not need to remove the clutch MC.

Having the hands of a 10 year old will help

Getting the pedal box cover off is usually the biggest challenge. I think I drilled 3 screws out as all were stripped...

 

[Bruce74B]

Well, I have the cover off...took it off and repainted it a couple of years ago. I am just to the point of taking the pedal off and it looks like I can slide it out of there with the clutch MC intact...if I can get the little bits out of the way, but I can take my time and do it that way, even if it takes longer and not have to mess with bleeding the clutch, etc. I will try it once I get the AC operating again...the heat has priority over my LBC ;-( Thanks

Bruce

 

[DrEntropy]

1/4" drive swivel socket!! :laugh:

 

[Bruce74B]

I only have a 3/8" knuckle, but I think it will fit down there. And I have to get it done this weekend and move her, so that we can get the new furnace in past there...uggg! I am just hoping I can pull the mount out past the end of the Clutch MC and over the briake lines and gas line in front of it. Thanks for the encouragement...it will help steel my will.

Bruce

 

[Scott_Hower]

You can also pop the 4inch rubber plug out of the back of the firewall to gain you a couple more inches of wiggle room.

Rereading this again ... are you trying to unbolt/remove the brake MC from the pedalbox itself (leaving the box bolted in situ)?

Or are you trying to unbolt the clutch MC from the pedalbox and remove the whole enchilada with the brake MC still attached?

The former is possible, but a hassle. Never tried the latter. If it were me, I'd just bite the bullet and bleed the clutch; if you have not changed the fluid and the clutch hose in a while, it's a good opportunity to do it.

 

[Bruce74B]

I am considering the latter...pulling the Brake MC and mount with the Clutch MC still in place, but I am beginning to think that bleeding the clutch might not be so bad after all. I need to get under there and see why the speedometer stopped working anyhow. I was looking for an easy way to get it done, but looks like I need to take the bull by the horns and do it this weekend. Thanks.

Bruce

 

[Scott_Hower]

Bruce-

Note the alignment of the banjo fitting on the rear bore of the MC before you remove it. Trying to tighten that thing down once fitted is next to impossible.

Also, replace the copper crush washers for good measure. I think there is one either side of the banjo ... MC/washer/banjo/washer/bolt. Same deal with the forward fitting, only there's only one.

 

[Bruce74B]

Thanks...it is in place but not fastened down yet, so I can align it next. The new MC came with new copper washers, so I did that, too :thumbsup: I just need to get my nighbor to bring over his two year old son to put the bolts back into the support and tighen them up. It wasn't as bad as I remember it, though.

Thanks again for the help...maybe I will get her out for a spin today, before it storms

Bruce

 

[Scott_Hower]

Great news Bruce!

I usually tape the socket onto my 1/4in extension REALLY WELL, then tape the bolt lightly onto the end of the socket. Works great.

Glad to hear it's getting there.

 

[DrEntropy]

Butyl windshield "tape" works well for holding fasteners to tools, too.

 

[Scott_Hower]

Butyl windshield "tape" works well for holding fasteners to tools, too.

Showoff

 

[Bruce74B]

I did use the tape for the inside bolts to the firewall with my cordless rachet, but where I can use both hands, I got out my trusty copper wire (14 gauge single strand works best) and looped the bolt through it, put the wrench on it and lowered it into place. Once it is started, as slight tug on the wire unbends the wire and it puts out :thumbsup:

She is back on the road again