Brake calipers--need to repair?

[100DashSix]

In the process of changing the front brake pads I came across the following step, as described in the Haynes manual: "Pull out the pads...remove the cap from the master cylinder...and press the caliper pistons right in."

As I try to push the pistons in, there is absolutely no movement--on either piston or either side of the car. Are they frozen up? Is there a trick to pushing them in so that I can fit new pads?

Advance Auto and Napa both have them for ~$65 each. I suppose it could've been worse..

Just for fun, here's a picture:

 

[tony barnhill]

Block of wood should move them - if not, they're probably a little frozen.

 

[100DashSix]

And is their frozenness something best remedied by buying two new calipers? Moss seems to sell rebuild kits. The wood doesn't seem to help them move.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Put a little WD40 on them and use a 4" Clamp on the cups. I bet they will move. You might have to alternate from side side to the other. Its never failed me.

MG

 

[100DashSix]

Ah! Let me give that a try.. From the way Haynes described it I figured it'd be easy with just finger pressure--and, if not, something is wrong.

 

[shorn]

At the very least, I would be replacing the pistons with stainless steel and rebuilding the calipers. The pistons look like they have seen better days. To push them back in though, you might open the bleed screw while applying pressure to the piston.

 

[Nunyas]

When I replaced the pads on my B I used C Clamps and didn't bother with opening the bleed screw. It was a bit of a wrestle to get them all the way open, at first. I imagine opening the bleed screw would make it a bit easier.

 

[100DashSix]

The clamps worked! Thanks for the advice, as usual.

I'll put rebuilding the calipers/pistons on my to-do list, as it certainly is important.

 

[tony barnhill]

They may not come back out when they're back on the car...check 'em closely.

 

[jlaird]

I know what I would do. New ones. Should be good for another 40 years or so.

 

[DrEntropy]

Yup. The pistons appear to be rusted, so by stuffing them back into the bores the rust/pits WILL abrade the seals and cause potential leaking/failure. With stainless pistons and a rebuild kit apiece you can renew the front braking. If the pistons returned "home" with opening the bleed screws you've an indication that the flex hoses are swollen inside and need to be replaced as well. They're allowing application pressure and NOT allowing fluid to return to zero pressure. The rear flex line will be the same. Replace all three.

...just a word in yer ear.

 

[jlaird]

And when the good Doctor speaks we all listen.

Well mostly anyway.......... LOL

 

[Kimberly]

Anyone familiar with the ones Kragen sells?
https://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=5003&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Caliper
#19444

https://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=A1C&mfrpartnumber=19444&parttype=5003&ptset=A

Less than $35, are they worth it?

 

[DrEntropy]

They want my bloody ZIP CODE!!!

"90210" and a buncha "stuff"...

A set of stainless pistons and a rebuild kit apiece makes a set of calipers you can count on. Hose replacement with a set of rebuilt calipers and rear cylinders makes for a known brake system. Simple as that.

....that's all I know. "Kragen" and the rest looking to data mine over the 'net are likely to be refused the stink off'n my excretia.

Sorry to be so strident, but there are limits to what I'm willing to do just for information's sake.

 

[100DashSix]

It's strange, both of those links take me to listings that are $54.44, plus they require the old calipers. Are they really less than $35?

 

[DrEntropy]

Send your cores to Tiawan...

I think not.

I'll rebuild my own, thankewverrymuch.

 

[100DashSix]

Hmm, I don't know about Taiwan--the Advance Auto near me is just down the street...though maybe they'd ship calipers FROM Taiwan. Then again, China will be making the new MG in the US (crosses fingers) so I suppose we have to start trusting them sooner or later.

As for the brakes, I'm concerned about them, but again will wait until the disc rotors come tomorrow, before deciding when to rebuild or replace them.

 

[DrEntropy]

Cores generally go to "highest bidder"... and are recycled by the lowest common denominator. Better to do the rebuild yourself if the pistons all move in the bores.

I'll trust the Chinese when the internet functions in Bejing and Canton the same way it does in Cleveland and Peoria. And I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for that "new" MG built in the US midwest either. Turning the PRC on a dime is highly unlikely to happen... especially in "dog years".

 

[Kimberly]

As to the links I provided above, the top link lists the price of the caliper for $32.99 plus $9.99 for the core. Part number is 19444 and the manufacturer is Cardone. I have never used brake parts with the name Cardone and was looking for a little feed back.

The second link provides a list of the various manufacturers and prices of calipers for a '78 B.

I don't know if zip code has any bearing on price, the zip code I used is 94564. I have found over the years that paying more doesn't always get you a better part and that packaging can have an affect on the price.

 

[Bruce74B]

I have used Cardone brake calipers on a rear disk rebuild on a GM....one of the biggest PIA systems there ever was...but I was very pleased with the Cardone parts for the two years that I kept that car after the rebuild.

Bruce