• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Brake Caliper Rebuild

Share this page

R

Richard Dickinson

Jedi Trainee
Offline
I am getting ready to put new pistons, seals, etc. in my brakes. My question is: since it will likely be many months before I get to the point where I have the brake system fully assembled and ready to bleed, should I assemble them dry, or with only a light coating of fluid or lubricant, or should I fill them with fluid? I plan to use silicone fluid.
 
I assembled mine wet in Dot 4 fluid, which I believe will help the parts go together easier tha dry, and remove the chance of any minor rust. It would also likely reduce th chance of damaging the rubber when forcing the parts together. Another idea is to use caliper greese to complete the task, whichhas the color and feel of vasaline.

-andrew-
 
Richard,

I was looking into this a while back and found the following information on brake assembly lubes

https://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/ic80560.htm

However, I haven't found any of these type of brake lubes at the local auto parts store (still have a few stores to try). I would think the silicone fluid would be a good assembly lube in your case since it doesn't absorb moisture. Also, with a little planning you could install all of your brake components around the same time and then bleed them. This is the approach I'm taking.

Cheers,
John
 
My plan was to assemble the front axel assemblies completly and set them aside until I was far enough along to bolt them on. However , it might be better to leave the calipers off until I'm ready to hang the whole brake system.
 
[ QUOTE ]
My plan was to assemble the front axel assemblies completly and set them aside until I was far enough along to bolt them on. However , it might be better to leave the calipers off until I'm ready to hang the whole brake system.

[/ QUOTE ]

HI Richard, That would be my advice to you.---Fwiw---Keoke
 
HI John, I do not think you will find brake assembly lubes at the conventional auto parts stores. However, you can obtain Genuine Castrol Girling Rubber Grease which is compatible with all natural rubber seals and dust covers used in the brake systems.This material is available from Sports & Classics.---Fwiw---Keoke
 
richard,befor you buy anything,rebuild kits,fluid,assembly grease etc,open those calipers up first,if there is pitting in the puck bores ,your not going to be rebuilding anything yourself,youll be exchanging them,no you wont be buying brandy spankin new ones they are not available,i dont know the condition of your car but if it requires a brake master cyl.rebuild as well that kit contains a small blister pack of the "official" assembly grease,enought to do the calipers as well. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Speaking of brakes, I've always been told to hold off on restoring brakes until last. Also, re-sleeving brake calipers seems like a good way to go. Has anyone had a bad or favorable experience with that process? One other question since were on this subject, where can you take the brake discs to have re-surfaced. Most shops don't have AH hubs to mount the disc on to turn them.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
There is no need to sleeve this style of caliper. Clean the bores and use new pistons. Unlike a wheel cylinder, or a Dunlop caliper(on Jags typically) the bore merely retains the square edged seal which runs against the smooth new piston. Peter C.
 
Yes, no reason to sleeve the calipers. I bought my new SS caliper pistons from John Farrell Auto Parts https://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/tread/1046/id23.htm along with the caliper rebuild kit and new "o" rings used after splitting the calipers.

I was able to get the brake disks turned at a local brake shop .. once the disks are removed from the hubs they go on a brake lathe like any other disks.

Also had all the cylinders resleeved (brake master, clutch master, clutch slave and wheel cylinders). Used Sierra Specialties for this work and they did an great job.
https://www.brakecylinder.com/
cylinders.jpg
 
[ QUOTE ]

... you can obtain Genuine Castrol Girling Rubber Grease which is compatible with all natural rubber seals and dust covers used in the brake systems.

[/ QUOTE ] Thanks Keoke .. I do have some packets of the GCGRG on hand so I'm set.

Cheers,
John
 
[ QUOTE ]
There is no need to sleeve this style of caliper. Clean the bores and use new pistons. Unlike a wheel cylinder, or a Dunlop caliper(on Jags typically) the bore merely retains the square edged seal which runs against the smooth new piston. Peter C.

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Peter, you are correct.However, the Dulop calipers also qualify.When sleeving the brake cylinders I prefer to use the double step machine process which insures the sleeve will not come out.---Keoke
 
The Dunlops I am referring to have the seal resident on the piston sealing against the bore. That's why they should be sleeved. Now..... what "double step machine process" are you referring to? Be gentle.... I'm a newbie here, at least.
 
Hi Peter, double machining overbores the clyinder but leaves a small original edge at the end .The clyinder is then heated and the sleeve is put in the deep freeze.Subsequently, they are mated and allowed to cool. Then the sleeve is machined back to its standard bore. This really locks them in.--Keoke
 
Hi John, your cylinders look good. I might suggest that you check the Clutch Slave cylinder as it appears in the picture that you can no longer get the snap ring in.?---Keoke
 
Hi Keoke,

There is a correctly sized groove for the snap ring in the sleeve. Fits perfectly but thanks for the heads up.

Cheers,
John
 
[ QUOTE ]
I'm a newbie here, at least.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi Peter,

Welcome to the forum! I've heard great things about your high quality rebuilds on lever arm shocks (World Wide Auto Parts). Hope you get the chance to join in here often.

Cheers,
John
 
You mean this Peter is the bugger that rebuilt my shocks??---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Hello Everyone, just thought i would mention that I had all my hydralic cylinders, brakes and clutch, brass sleeved by White Post Restorations in Virginia. Its been about 3 years running now with no problems. I must say that my brake master cyl. gave them (and me) fits for a while and had to be sent back 3 times for some reason that I'll never understand. Just couldnt bleed it. But finally got it right and no problems since. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Back
Top