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Before putting my car away for the winter, I replaced the BDWA -- unsuccessfully, by the way, because they don't make a seal kit for the cup seals on TR-250 BDWAs. So, mine continues to leak. I'm now armed with a TR-6 BDWA and a rebuild kit, and I'm ready to tackle the job again.
My question is this. When I bled the brakes last time around, I used a Mityvac from Moss (the grey unit with the pressure gauge on top). I'd put the hose directly on a bleeder valve (without any of the attachments -- they just didn't fit), build up a bit of pressure, and then turn the valve to open it. I repeated at every wheel and was pretty sure I wasn't getting air bubbles in the fluid. However, every time I'd still get a squishy peddle that had to be pumped a few times to get good pressure. Am I missing something or doing something wrong? I've never done this operation before with the vac unit -- I usually do the "buddy system" approach. Any advice on how to successfully conquor this with the Mityvac? I think I may be getting air through the PDWA, so perhaps when I resolve that, it will fix the issue.
Thanks for any advice!
My question is this. When I bled the brakes last time around, I used a Mityvac from Moss (the grey unit with the pressure gauge on top). I'd put the hose directly on a bleeder valve (without any of the attachments -- they just didn't fit), build up a bit of pressure, and then turn the valve to open it. I repeated at every wheel and was pretty sure I wasn't getting air bubbles in the fluid. However, every time I'd still get a squishy peddle that had to be pumped a few times to get good pressure. Am I missing something or doing something wrong? I've never done this operation before with the vac unit -- I usually do the "buddy system" approach. Any advice on how to successfully conquor this with the Mityvac? I think I may be getting air through the PDWA, so perhaps when I resolve that, it will fix the issue.
Thanks for any advice!