BN7 / BJ7 Dash Top Removal

[RDKeysor]

The Lift-The-Dot tonneau peg next to the rear view mirror has gone wobbly on me. I want to remove the dash top so that I can find a fix to stabilize it. The tonneau puts a lot of pull on this particular fastener when the car is underway. Question, can the dash top be removed without removing the dash, and how is this done?

 

[HealeyRick]

Remove the two screws holding the rear view mirror. Two more screws, one in each front corner of the dash. Prise (authentic BMC Service Manual word) the dash cover upwards (you'll feel some resistance as there are pegs that fit into the top of the scuttle. Replacement is the reverse etc.

 

[bob hughes]

Pegs ?

Any one got a photo of the pegs and their position, I do not have any on mine - obviously home made.



Bob

 

[andrewss]

Bob, i think the pegs you are referring to are the four pins (two on each side) for the air vents. After removing the two screws for the rear view mirror (and the two screws left and right of the dash) gently lift the dash from front centre and slide your hands towards the windscreen lifting at the same time. Given that the dashboard is thin veneered wood and over time it flakes and cracks there's a good chance that tonneau peg is fine but the wood around it is broken. I'm on my 6th Healey and the problem has been the same for all of them.

I've tried many fixes and the best is to 'araldite' (epoxy glue) a large but thin washer to the underside of the dash to strengthen the wood around the tonneau peg. Make sure that its thin enough not to create a bulge in the dash when its replaced..

Hope that this helps.

Regards,

Andrew

 

[TimK]

I'm about to install a Moss dash top for my BN7. Does the windshield have to come off?

 

[andrewss]

Tim,

No but I suggest that you loosen the windshield bolts on both sides to allow you to fit 'flush' the dashboard where it meets the windscreen. If you don't you may find that the vinyl on the dash 'lifts' as its squeezed against the windscreen creating an unsightly bubble...

 

[RDKeysor]

I originated this thread. Following the helpful suggestions provided here, I removed the mirror without trouble and one Phillips screw in the right underside corner of the dash cover (on the same side of the dash as the nearby grab handle). The screw on the left side was missing. I was able to lift the rear edge of the cover on my initial try, but the front portion felt as if might be slightly captive under the windshield. Also I noted one plastic peg on the underside of the dash top, which I think is one of four (two each) that hold the defroster slots in place. The one I checked had a spring clip on the peg, a small, flat retainer. It appears to me that this retainer and the others I assume are present must come off to remove the dash cover along with the defroster slots. I'm also understanding that the cover is the fabric/wood portion, not the sheet metal on which it rests. I would appreciate any observations on this jabber.

 

[TimK]

The cover is not the sheet metal. It is the wood and fabric/vinyl.

 

[andrea]

In this google album you can find some helping photos
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/112770819864514987162/albums/5431364307197287201
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/112770819864514987162/albums/5431364307197287201/5449142211377824994?pid=5449142211377824994&oid=112770819864514987162

 

[andrewss]

Release the four nuts that secure the windscreen (two each side) inside the door jam. This will allow you to tilt the windscreen approx 1/2 inch forward without damaging the rubber strip that the windscreen sits on. This will give you enough space to lift the dashboard top as I explained in an earlier post. The four pins (two each side) for the defroster/air vent are held in place with an oblong push on retainer. They are only there to keep the air vents in place. You DO NOT need to remove them to remove the dash top. Over time (humidity that causes rust) have without doubt just stuck them to the dash top (metal). A little bit of pressure and they should just lift up and release the whole dash in one piece.

 

[RDKeysor]

Largely relying on the comments from andrewss, I successfully removed the dash a few minutes ago. I had freed the dash cover at the right side without loosening the windscreen. The left side was more difficult. I then loosened the two bolts in the door jam, as recommended, and a third one, visible as a slotted screw head where the windscreen attaches to the cowling. However, I also had to remove a second "oblong push on retainer" behind the instruments that gripped a plastic "pin" that retained the two defroster outlets.. This was contrary to the advice our Belgian responder gave. Both of these retainers penetrated the sheet metal below the dash cover and had to be removed to lift off the dash covers along with the defroster outlets. There were several additional "pins" on the bottom of the plastic defroster pieces, but only two had retainers. This suggests an earlier visitor had removed and not reinstalled these. As an aside, I was shocked at how short the threaded section of the "lift the dot" stud was and the thinness of the wood portion of the dash cover. That stud takes a lot of stress from the tonneau, and I am taking the steps suggested for providing it with a stronger grip. I don't want to revisit this issue.

 

[andrewss]

Often what you 'should have' and 'actually have' are different animals due to previous owners who have played around with things. Pleased to hear that its finally off. An alternative to a round metal washer to strengthen the wood is to drill a small hole into the dash (metal) in the same place, purchase a 'lift the dot' stud with a 1/2 inch thread and nut. This option is not for the 'purist' but does mean that the tonneau pulls against metal rather than the wood (feeble) dash top.. AH Spares or Moss sell them...