I used Baltic Birch plywood with a walnut burl veneer. While this is a relatively simple woodworking project, getting it right the first time can be a challenge.
I chose to lay up the veneer to the plywood before cutting out either the basic shape or the instrument and control holes. This makes the vacuum lamination of the veneer less likely to result in splits and wrinkles in the veneer. A suitable vacuum press is available at most good woodworking stores for a very reasonable price.
After veneering, the question arises as to whether then to do the cutting, with finishing to follow, or to stain and finish first, then cut. I chose the latter for a particular reason: When sanding and finishing any piece of wood, you will put more pressure on the edges than the field. The veneer is very thin, around 1/64 inch. If you are not careful, you will sand right through it along the edges and around the holes. Others may choose to do it differently. There is more than one way to achieve good results in most woodworking projects.
Next I filled the pores of the walnut veneer with a brown pore filler, and following instructions, allowed it to dry, then sanded the excess. This step will make the finishing easier, because whatever finish you use will not be required, through multiple layers, to fill the pores.
Next comes the choice of stain or no stain. I chose to match my existing dash as closely as possible, and that required a rosewood gel stain, followed by orange shellac. This gives the otherwise decidely brown walnut a reddish hue. This is purely personal preference.
After stain and shellac, I applied multiple coats of spar varnish. This is a very important step. Not all finishes protect from ultra-violet light. Spar varnish does. If you don't get a finish that protects from UV light, your dash will fade with time and exposure. I applied multiple layers, allowing ample drying time between layers, with light scuffing before the succeeding application.
When sufficient layers of final finish are on the wood to ensure a completely flat surface when viewed in good light from an angle, the finish can be finished. This process is a multi-step procedure, starting with 600 grit paper, proceeding to at least 1200 grit, finally followed by a machine glaze buffing at mediuim speed with a foam buffing pad.
Now all the finishing above applies to those of us who do not have adequate spray epuipment. I have compressed air and a spray gun, but not enough drying capability to satisfy. Spraying the final finish can provide some distinct advantages, and if properly controlled, may reduce most of the final finishing steps.
What you are trying to achieve with all the above steps is a mirror finish which reveals no "nibs" to the touch, and a completely uniform surface when viewed from a low angle into a light source.
Lastly, I did cut out the dash to shape, and followed that with cutting out the instrument holes. The latter step was accomplished with the help of a very good friend with a Bridgeport vertical mill and a sense of adventure.
My end result turned out great, but took a lot of time. I'll bet others have done better with less time invested. No matter, it's a good project for this car for anyone.
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