BJ8 Choke cable - wont move

[Bock62]

After removing air filters and adjusting BJ8 carbs mixture (first time), choke cable does not want to move from closed position. Info: 1)Had removed choke cable brackets and started/ran car to set/test mixture, including twisting (to lock open) choke at handle.2) cable brackets appear to be reinstalled OK (kinda hard to do it another way), and there is slack in cables below, levers-to-brackets.
So my query is about a possible choke cable control hang-up at dash -- have others experienced "lock-up" in handle mechanism, and if so what is fix?
Any comments appreciated. Thanks for your help.

 

[Ed_K]

I had a new aftermarket cable that I purchased at one of our usuall suppliers. After pulling the handel out and twisting it to lock the choke activated about 30 or 40 times, the cable came out of the back of the handel and I wound up with the handle in my hand. I temporarily installed another generic choke cable so I could get the car started and contacted the supplier. They stood behind the product and sent me a new one, free of charge. I have not yet installed it as I am trying to think of how I might better fasten the cable into the back of handel....

To your problem.. loosen the screw that retains the center cable into the metal block in front of the firewall and try to move it in and out a little. Don't pull it out too far or the frayed end will not go back in until you pull it all the way out and fix the frayed end and then reinstall it.
If it binds inside the outer sleave, then you will have to pull it all the way out to see what is wrong with it. Hard to say but if one strand broke from twisting it, it would not want to move forward to relase the choke.

 

[Dave Russell]

Hi Ed,
Normam Nock says to drill a small hole into the handle shank at right angles to the cable wire, reinsert the wire, & solder it in through the drilled hole.

BTW, a stranded wire is NOT a good application for a cable that has to be pushed AND pulled. It pulls fine but it doesn't push so good. It's especially bad on a cable that also has to be twisted.
D

 

[Bock62]

Will give loosening the screw & moveing it in and out a little a try first -- seems like these cables may be a chronic problem.....

 

[Bock62]

Thanks
Google of Norman Nock gave me Brit Car Splsts in Stockton...

 

[MarkA]

When I bought our 67 bj8 a year ago, the choke was very hard to operate. It had return springs that attached from the choke arms on the carbs to the bottom of the heat shield. I took those springs off and replaced the secondary cables since they were fraying.

Now the choke pulls very easily and returns completely. But, it will not stay in a rich position, only high idle. I did see a choke cable on a car once that was stamped with "Turn to Lock".

Is turning the choke knob a normal thing to keep the choke locked in the rich position?

Thanks...

 

[Dave Russell]

I don't know about the later cars. My BN2 has a turn to lock cable. The same cable that it has had for 50 years. The shank on the pull handle has notches along it's bottom side. There is a spring loaded detent that engages the notches when the knob is turned 90 degrees. You have to turn the knob back to straight up to release the detent. Maybe the later cars did away with such extra nonsense?

Ed,
It also has an inner cable consisting of a single .050" diameter wire & still works very smoothly after 50 years.
D

 

[AUSMHLY]

Hi Block62,

I replaced my choke cable at the dash with a new solid thin wire I got at the hardware store. I brought the cable housing in and found the perfect size wire that would fit. I lubed that thin wire. I replaced the small screw in the knob with a new one. That solved that problem.

The two cables that run from the firewall block to each carburetor, I replaced with Gortex bicycle cables. I completely removed the old system of the metal tubes and wire. I ran the Gortex cables through the black plastic tubes that the original metal cable tubes ran through. That change is not physically noticeable, still looks stock. But now works like butta.

I was getting resistance at both places. Dash and engine side. Resistance is now about half, at dash side. Much easier to pull and push.

Roger

 

[Keoke]

Hi Dave, that be the problem the choke cable on the BJ8 should always be in the process of being pulled. You pull it out and the return choke springs are to pull it back in most people do not have these springs installed or set up properly.---Keoke

 

[Keoke]

Hi Roger, sounds like your cable fix works OK. However, the Healey choke knob does not have a small screw in the knob. Consequently, you must have somebody else's primary choke unit installed?---Fwiw---Keoke

 

[MarkA]

Keoke,

On a bj8, are there choke return springs other than return springs (throttle shaft) on the carbs themselves? I removed two long springs that ran from each choke lever on the carbs down to the bottom of the heat shield. I could not find anything which indicated they were original to the car's design...

Mark

 

[Keoke]

Yep Mark those are the choke return springs. There should be, but are not always there, a hole in the fender arch just below the choke lever on the front carb. On the rear carb there should be a similar hole on the scuttle support brace. The springs are the same ones used for the throttle return function and must be stretched to enable them to return the chokes but not add appreciable load to pulling the choke out. Takes a bit of practice to get them right.---Fwiw---Keoke

 

[MarkA]

Thanks Keoke...

 

[robert_ellison]

Would these springs also be present on the BJ-7 duel carb setup?

Robert

 

[healeynut]

Bock -

I had this same problem on my BJ8 which I fixed this weekend. I had traced the problem to the brass jet in the carb which had gotten frozen with surface corrosion on the brass. I had to pull the carburettor out and tap out the jet, then I cleaned it with some metal polish (I cleaned the jet housing in the throttle body using metal polish with ear buds/Q-tips). I also did the same cleaning procedure with the brass cam rod which connected the choke levers at the bottom of the carb to the throttle lever at the front of the carb.

 

[Dave Richards]

Yep Mark those are the choke return springs. There should be, but are not always there, a hole in the fender arch just below the choke lever on the front carb. On the rear carb there should be a similar hole on the scuttle support brace. The springs are the same ones used for the throttle return function and must be stretched to enable them to return the chokes but not add appreciable load to pulling the choke out. Takes a bit of practice to get them right.---Fwiw---Keoke

But Keoke! If you use those springs the chokes will want to close up, unless your choke pull handle locks open, which I understand is how they're supposed to work, but mine never has...

 

[Ed_K]

Dave R.,

I am going to try and find some .050 dia stainless steel wire and then make a " good " choke cable. The locking mechanism of the after market cables from our usual suppliers seem to work very well. Using the single strand of wire is probably the trick for both longevity and it should stay fastened into the handle once properly attached, ( using the Norman Nock tip ).

Ed

 

[Ed_K]

Roger,

The next time I work on the choke, I am going to recheck the front cables. If I have any hint of binding, I am going to find a bycycle shop and look for those cables that you used.

Ed K.

 

[Keoke]

Yep Mark those are the choke return springs. There should be, but are not always there, a hole in the fender arch just below the choke lever on the front carb. On the rear carb there should be a similar hole on the scuttle support brace. The springs are the same ones used for the throttle return function and must be stretched to enable them to return the chokes but not add appreciable load to pulling the choke out. Takes a bit of practice to get them right.---Fwiw---Keoke

But Keoke! If you use those springs the chokes will want to close up, unless your choke pull handle locks open, which I understand is how they're supposed to work, but mine never has...

Yes Dar100, if the choke assy does not lock the springs will pull the choke in. Sometimes you can remedy the non locking which is caused by excessive wear on the choke shaft, by removing the shaft, using light hammer taps on the shaft in the area where it is designed to lock, causing it to expand slightly. Now when its turned it will add sufficient pressure against a small cam and spring so that it locks. Alternatively, replacing the stranded wire cable with a solid SS wire available in many diameters from a well stocked hobby shop usually creates enough additional friction between the wire and the sheath allowing you to set the choke at any desired position and it will stay. However, you will have to push the choke in.---Fwiw--Keoke

 

[Bock62]

Want to thank all who replied to my stuck choke cable query for the great info! Choke is working now.
Since 'downstream' at carbs was operating, Took the suggestion to loosen screw that retained center cable into metal block and pulled it out a little and then lubed the solid shaft in/at panel and reinstalled/reattached. Then followed suggestion to check/work the throttle (fast idle?)jets below carbs and lubed those as well. Now the choke works 'differently', in that it doesnt pull out as far, (which I can adjust at carb lever?), but now has fast idle, which seemed to be missing before.
In all this, learned a lot about how this SU system works. Its FAR more complicated than my prior MG TD!!Probably will install the suggested solid wire system in near future......