Bare Metal Protection/Prep While Doing Bodywork

[60Bugeye]

I'm going through the process of locating all the spots on my car that need patching, a redo on repairs made with filler, etc. Essentially, I am attempting to get an overall view of what needs to be done, and then making a plan to determine which sequence to do the work.

While I'm doing so, I have been spraying a light coat of Rustoleum rattle-can automotive gray primer on the affected areas that I have taken down to bare metal, but will not be performing work on for some time.

Is this enough to prevent flash rusting/corrosion while working through the project?

The car is stored in an insulated garage, though it is in the Pacific Northwest if that matters.

Do I need to use some sort of self-etching or epoxy primer?

Is one better than the other? Easier to apply?

The amount/type of products out there is overwhelming.

Can they be left on areas that would be primed and painted with the final coat?

Are there specific cleaning or corrosion-neutralizing methods that I should also consider before applying "patch" primer as I'm calling it?

Lots of questions, yes, I'm a newbie to this. Ultimately I want to ensure I don't create a situation that will ruin a nice paint job when I'm finished with the bodywork.

Thanks in advance!

 

[markberry]

Most of My Bugeye has been stripped down to bare metal in my garage for the past three years and I'm hardly getting any surface rust. That stuff comes off with a scotch brite pad and some metal conditioner when you're ready to prep for primer/sealer anyway. I'm right up the road from you just past Everett BTW.
regards
Mark

 

[60Bugeye]

Most of My Bugeye has been stripped down to bare metal in my garage for the past three years and I'm hardly getting any surface rust. That stuff comes off with a scotch brite pad and some metal conditioner when you're ready to prep for primer/sealer anyway. I'm right up the road from you just past Everett BTW.
regards
Mark

Hey Mark,

That is encouraging. I guess I won't sweat it until it's time to go to the painter (many eons from now!).

Do you have a recommendation for metal conditioner?

Btw, enjoying the snow this week?

It is expected to strike here mid-afternoon. We only saw a few flakes yesterday.

Cheers,

- Chris

 

[JPSmit]

the guy I got my Fiat from used WD40 on the stripped paint on his - no issues so far. I also know Mark (Abarth69) sells a Picklex which he swears by.
Picklex

 

[Bayless]

Depends on what you mean by "eons from now" but you should be pretty safe in your garage at least for a reasonable time. If outside, I would usually recommend the epoxy but it is more work to use. For good adhesion you need the cleaner/prep first and epoxy is a 2 part paint. The plus side is you cah usually paint right over it if done right. The rattle can stuff will have to come off before finishing. PPG maks an excellent cleaner/prep but I bet most manufacturers do too.

 

[60Bugeye]

Depends on what you mean by "eons from now" but you should be pretty safe in your garage at least for a reasonable time. If outside, I would usually recommend the epoxy but it is more work to use. For good adhesion you need the cleaner/prep first and epoxy is a 2 part paint. The plus side is you cah usually paint right over it if done right. The rattle can stuff will have to come off before finishing. PPG maks an excellent cleaner/prep but I bet most manufacturers do too.

By "eons" I am guessing a couple of years of work to get the body in shape for painting, though given my experience level that could easily stretch into a few years.

 

[markberry]

Hey Mark,

That is encouraging. I guess I won't sweat it until it's time to go to the painter (many eons from now!).

Do you have a recommendation for metal conditioner?

Btw, enjoying the snow this week?

It is expected to strike here mid-afternoon. We only saw a few flakes yesterday.

Cheers,

- Chris [/quote]

+1 on the PPG products. Wesco auto body supply has all that stuff. You can get it all online also. You pay shipping but you don't pay tax, so it kind of works out. My suggestion is to get <span style="text-decoration: underline">ALL</span>the old paint off the car before starting anything else. You need to find all 50 years worth of bondo repair jobs and replace the rotten metal before priming and beginning the body work.
We're not too thrilled with the snow...it's just too hard dealing with the traffic here when it snows.
best of luck with the restoration!
regards
Mark