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Bad News 1098

jjscott

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Well, I've had a belly full of bad news on my Bugeye restoration. Not one moving part in the chassis has been salvageable. In terms of eating money this thing is worse than a boat. The engine shop just called to tell me my crank has a 1" crack in it and is junk. So. I'm faced with finding a 2" crank (10cc) or cutting my losses and finding a 1275.

Does anyone have a sound 10cc 1098 crank for sale? Should I even buy one if available?

Can I use my HS 2 carbs and manifolds from the 1098 on a 1275?

I've got a good 395 head and block; is there any market for them?

I'm a little discouraged.

Jim
 

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Yoda
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If it were me, I'd cut my losses and acquire a good 1275. My condolences.:chargrined:
 

Pythias

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I had a 1098 go gunny sack on me recently and I took it as an opportunity to "upgrade" to a 1275. I found a long block for less than the cost of a rebuild...

It wouldn't hurt to contact... "Mickey" <mmpleasant@roadrunner.com> and see what he has.
 

bug_sixty

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Someone in the racing world chime in... I think the 10..crank was used in the 950 for punch??? If true no many around...
 

Gerard

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I had a 1098 go gunny sack on me recently and I took it as an opportunity to "upgrade" to a 1275. I found a long block for less than the cost of a rebuild...

It wouldn't hurt to contact... "Mickey" <mmpleasant@roadrunner.com> and see what he has.

I know he has at least one he's picked up recently, but not sure if it's spoken for already. Mickey will do you right for sure if he does though.
 

DanLewis

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I know he has at least one he's picked up recently, but not sure if it's spoken for already. Mickey will do you right for sure if he does though.

I just wanted to chime in and tell you how happy I've been with the rebuilt 1275 I bought from Mickey a few months ago. It came with a Schneider "street" cam, higher compression pistons, new oil and water pumps and much more. I was really lucky too because he told me the one I got didn't even need to be bored oversize. Runs like a real tiger! And he was kind enough to answer a number of questions by phone during the installation. You can't go wrong with Mickey.

Dan
 

64rocksprite

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Jim - sent you a PM..I have a 10CG short block. I know it's not the same..but an option anyway.
 
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jjscott

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As luck/fate would have it, in the last day I was actually presented with a choice. A probably rebuildable 1275 turned up locally as did a used standard size 10CC crank. I never thought either would happen.

The consensus seemed to be' "go for the 1275". Despite that I bought the used crank and it's off to be crack tested.

Here's my logic: money, mostly. I'm doing this entire restoration myself except for the machine work on the engine. That includes all body work and paint. As a result it will never be a great car and never be at the top end of the value scale. I've already got more in it than I want - maybe more than I'll ever get out when it's sold.

The 1275 was $400 or offer. Cheap enough. It was missing the manifolds, oil filter housing, carbs, distributor, and generator. I already had the 1098 clutch, so I'd have to buy one of those as well. Some of my parts would swap over. I'd have to get a new exhaust system (I think). I've got $150 in the 1098 head, block and crank in cleaning and magnafluxing. The 1275 would need the same treatment. There's the risk some 1275 components wouldn't pass the crack tests. Engine rebuild parts are virtually identical in cost. All told, it might be $700-900 more to go to the 1275. That will buy the paint and more.

So, that's my rationale. And, we all know in this hobby it is entirely possible to rationalize anything.

Thanks for all the replies. Jim
 

Rut

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Jim,
Glad you found the parts you needed. I've never driven a 1098 powered Spridget, but most people like them just fine. If you decide to do the 1275 swap down the road you can without too much difficulty.
Rut
 

Pythias

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As said before I'm doing the 1275 swop, but I have never driven a 1275, ONLY a 1098. While mine was running fine, I would mention to those in the know that I was considering doing the change, and they would ask.... WHY? the 1098 is the smoothest of the A series, not even needing a harmonic balancer. It has all the torque, or nearly so, of the 1275, and that torque is down low, where you want it. I could pull 5th gear from about 1800 rpm. Wonderful engines, BUT.... ... parts are a little rarer, and harder to come by, thus more expensive. ... ... When you get it all together you're gonna love it.
 

Jim_Gruber

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The 1098 that was transplanted into Bugsy my '68 Sprite was a great motor for 12 years .Always reliable and lots of torque. Bugsy II will get a 1275 I acquired years ago that needs a valve job and while head is off will likely go for rings and check bearings as well. This was a strong running '69 engine that all of a sudden began using oil. Compression down on two cylinders. Not sure if valve seals or just wear and tear. It will get fixed as part of Bugsy II's restoration along wiht adding a 5 speed that is also now in my garage. Yeah.
 
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jjscott

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Jim, I remember your satisfaction with the 1098 in an earlier thread on the subject. It's one reason I decided to stick with mine.

I was surprised to see the 1098/1275 parts costs were within pennies of one another. Parts availability for stock 1098 rebuilds does not seem to be a problem; there doesn't seem to be much available in performance upgrades though.

Jim
 
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jjscott

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Update: Crank #2 was bad as well and cracked in multiple places. I've given up on the 1098. I bought the used 1275, took it apart and will bring it to the machine shop Monday. It's on standard bores and crank. The crank actually looks very nice. The second 1098 crank looked good, too, so looks can be deceiving.

About the 1275: It has the late smog head with the big bosses around the exhaust valve guides. Is there anything to be gained my removing them? Remember, this is a budget rebuild. A professional porting job is out. If I can pick up better breathing for minimum cost I'd do it.

The cam bearings and journals look good. Several (3) of the front lobes have an imperfection running fore and aft just before the top of the lobe. I am assuming this is wear/pitting. Should I run this cam? The picture shows the lobe with the worst wear. It is where the bright wear mark goes across the entire lobe from front to back. It is not a depression.

Thanks for any advice. Jim
 

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Yoda
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About the 1275: It has the late smog head with the big bosses around the exhaust valve guides. Is there anything to be gained my removing them? Remember, this is a budget rebuild. A professional porting job is out. If I can pick up better breathing for minimum cost I'd do it.

I used a similar head (the 12G1316 - that has all the plugs where it used to be hooked up to an emission system). Rebuilt it just fine (but no porting or anything fancy), and didn't make any other changes (except seats, valve guides and the usual). In my case, I had to repair those brass blanking plugs (where they remove them and thread them back in).
 
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