auto tranny

[sp53]

I am trying to install an auto tranny on a Saab 9000. This is my first time with an auto tranny. My problem now is I have the tranny going on a little crooked and one side needs to go on about 3/8 more and the other is flush with the engine towards the top. I tried pushing and prying, but I think it is in a bind. I am not sure what to do. I am afraid to just suck it on with the big guide bolts on the block. They do stick out about 3 inches and are about 7/16 and look like once you are on them just push the tranny on. I did a little, but I do not want to break anything. Perhaps that small input shaft thingie coming over the torque converter needs specific alignment. It did not look that way though. Any insight would be considered very helpful.
Steve

 

[Deleted member 8987]

The TC needs to be fully seated on most every auto trans I have ever seen.
You need to unload the snout on the end (lift it so it's neutral buoyancy), press into the trans lightly while spinning the TC slowly.
Most SAAB stories I had to work on over the years were stick shift, so not sure if the TC is different, but seen a whole lot of front pump damage caused by "sucking it down" without the TC being fully seated in the front pump.
When it drops, you'll feel it.
Measure the distance from the TC mount where it contacts the flywheel to the edge of the bell housing, then measure the edge of the block to the mount of the flywheel (flexplate)and you should have, oh, at last 1/4" of gap. THAT gap is pulled to the flywheel (flexplate) one the trans is bolted down and you suck the TC to the flywheel (flexplate).

 

[Deleted member 8987]

What part of Washington State? If close, I could drive over.

 

[sp53]

I live down in University Place just west of Tacoma, so it is kinda far, and it is in a carport, but you are more than welcome. TOC thanks for your input, I kind figured something like that was out of alignment. I purchased the trany from a Junkyard and they put a small bracket on the bell housing that retains the TC in place and then I put a metal bar in place (wood chisel) through the timing hole to help keep it on when I took theirs off as I moved it in place. It did wiggle a little and It might have slipped loose or dropped down some, but I do not think so? How about if I try this, using what you have suggested. I try and slide the tranny back some and reach in through the starter hole and try and find that bouncy point by lifting the TC up some if I can and then push the tranny forward. I just want to keep some of the ground I gained and not drop the tranny all the way back out. I did try and suck it in some, put stopped as soon as I felt strong resistance. I hope I did not damage the pump deal where ever that is.
steve

 

[Deleted member 8987]

The "snout" on the TC has either two flats on the side or two slots, which fit into the mating surfaces on the inner pump gear.
If you didn't bolt it down by force and start it, you didn't damage anything.
If the TC is hitting the flywheel (flexplate) before you get the bell housing to the block, the TC is not seated into the pump.

 

[sp53]

So it looks like I need to pull it all back out and make sure the converter is seated correctly. Once the seating is proper will the converter be stable in the bell housing. In addition, before those slots on the converter are in place do I need to replace anything like an O ring or something? Will the converter seal in the pump? Would it be possible to seat the convert while the trany is on the jack or should I move it out completely to a bench? Like you mention there is some wiggle room between the converter and flywheel, perhaps a ¼, right, and as a rule how tight of fit is there on the little ball dealie on the TC as it fits into the back of the crank. Is there an input shaft bushing like a manual?
Steve

 

[Deleted member 8987]

The little ball dealie is a centering/alignment pin to the crank.
There is a pump seal, but if you pull the TC out, be prepared for several quarts of spilled ATF.
There is an internal spline shaft fom the pump to the inside of the TC, holds the vanes in the center.
Usually that lines up first, the dogs are last.
I would not recommend trying to seat the TC on a floor jack.
If the trans is chained down to a transmission jack, yes, but balanced on a floor jack you're going to end up wearing it.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Before you do that, have you eyeballed the distance the TC is recessed into the bell housing, and determined that the distance is more than adequate to clear the flywheel?

 

[sp53]

Last night before I quit, I eyeballed the TC through the starter hole and it looked like the TC was snug against the flywheel. The transmission is also against the block on the up left side, but from what I gleaning the TC sounds like it dropped some. My first thoughts were that the ball dealie was not in its hole. I put that in dry because I asked a local shop if I should grease the ball they said no, so I thought the ball was stuck there. The vehicle is home and when I get there I will take a better look. Thanks TOC for helping.
Steve

 

[sp53]

Well TOC I got in clean and smooth. I slide it back some ,maybe and inch, and then I kinda wiggled and rolled the TC about applying slight pressure back and then it popped back about an inch. At that point, our conversions became clearer and I could see the adequate distance you maintained. I did, after that have some difficulty with the right side. It has this kinda transfer case thingy that provides drive for the other side. I guess you could say positive traction. Anyway I just keep pushing by hand toward the right and I felt it go in. Now my concern is what to do about start up and fluid. After all, this is a good junkyard tranny. I know oxymoron, anyway any suggestions on that?
Steve

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Saab....should say on the dipstick whether or not it's check idling, hot.
Start it, check the stick, if on the stick, let it warm up, and select all gears, one at a time, allowing it to engage as much as it will, back to park (or neutral as the disptick says), recheck, add as necessary to keep fluid on the stick, re-select all the gears (this fills pistons and anything that had drained), recheck, let it warm up. Do a final top-off once warm.
Once you are convinced it's all in and works, and you drive it a bit, not a bad idea to have it serviced (fluid flush, filter, band adjust) by someone who knows Saab transmissions.