Air line for small shop

[mailbox]

I just realized someone else posted a message similar to mine so please forgive me. I'm looking for a slightly different answer.
I'm looking to put in some air lines from my compressor thru out my small shop. I'm trying to decide what is the best, easiest, and mainly the cheapest. I have several things in mind and I need your advice on this.

1. Black iron pipe. This would be my first choice, but it can be hard to work with and a little on the pricey side.
2. Copper pipe. Maybe, but definitely pricey and I simply don't know how to sweat a proper joint.
3. PVC. Yeaaaaah NO!!!!!!
4. Nylon tubing. This one intrigues me the most. There is a nice kit from Rapid Air, https://www.rapidairproducts.com/rapidair.asp ,but it's more than I want to spend (see picture of me under cheapskate). Tubing is not that high and I think I can get fitting fairly easily.

I'm not looking for an ultra whiz-bang system or something like that, I am just tired of stretching my air hose out THEN ROLLING IT BACH UP for little jobs across the shop. Thoughts, ideas, suggestions, smacks on the back of my head, etc......

 

[David_Doan]

The cheap and easy way it to just use pre-made hoses that are about the length you need, then a short piece of pipe, an elbow, and a coupler where you want to attach each drop to the wall.

OR

Since you said small shop - How about a hose reel? I have a 100ft self-retracting hose reel in my 2.5 car garage/shop and it does everything I need.

 

[Bayless]

Self-retracting reel for me too. Got a cheap one from Harbor Freight and it has worked for years.

 

[TomMull]

1. Black iron pipe. This would be my first choice, but it can be hard to work with and a little on the pricey side.
2. Copper pipe. Maybe, but definitely pricey and I simply don't know how to sweat a proper joint.
3. PVC. Yeaaaaah NO!!!!!!
4. Nylon tubing. This one intrigues me the most. There is a nice kit from Rapid Air, https://www.rapidairproducts.com/rapidair.asp ,but it's more than I want to spend (see picture of me under cheapskate). Tubing is not that high and I think I can get fitting fairly easily.

I've got my shop cobbed together with bits of many of your proposals. IMO, them:
1. Good choice but time consuming. With a water drop and drain coming off the compressor, (good idea for any system) joints for oilers and filters etc, it starts to consume lots of parts, time and not that cheap. Also needs to be securely mounted. I run this around my bench with a couple of disconnects mounted on the wall and for water drop at the compressor.
2. I used some bendable copper pipe with compression fittings. Quick and easy. Not particularly cheap. I run this from the compressor to my work areas
3. What's the working pressure for schedule 80? I've never tried PVC.
4. Similar to copper so would depend on price. Don't use the cheap plastic expanding coils though.

Tom

 

[BustedKnuckles]

Air moving through PVC tubing creates a static charge on the tubing. Not advisable if flammable vapors are occasionally present nearby.

 

[Billm]

In my shop design classes the only reason not to use PVC pipe (appropriate for the pressure) is that if there is a fire in the shop the PCV WILL catch fire and the air rushing out will tend to help the fire burn. Other than that it has no other problems but that one is pretty big!
BillM

 

[mailbox]

Fire not much of an issue. If it goes up, it ALL goes up. Wood frame with vinyl siding. I'd never get it out if the flames ever got very big. My biggest concern about PVC was its tendency to explode in to small shards. With the kind of luck I have I would be standing right next to it when it went off. I might use a combination of all of them, PVC for long runs up in the ceiling, drop downs with iron or copper. Its a thought.

 

[PC]

... My biggest concern about PVC was its tendency to explode in to small shards....

Bingo.

Shrapnel = bad

That's why it's not allowed in commercial installations and highly discouraged anywhere. I believe some jurisdictions allow PVC segments if they're buried some minimum depth below grade.

Personally, I'd go with copper. Yeah, it costs a little more up front. But it's a one-time deal then it will work great forever.

Don't worry about sweating pipe, it's pretty easy. Just remember to start with clean ends, use flux and heat the joint, not the solder. MAPP heats faster than propane, especially for 3/4" and larger tube.

Plumbing Basics: How to Sweat a Pipe Joint

 

[titanic]

In my ignorance, I ran PVC pipe around the perimeter of my shop with quick connect couplers about every 10'. That was at least 20 years ago and I have never had a problem. Schedule 40 1/2" is rated for 600 psi, 3/4" 480 psi, well above the 100-125 psi that my compressor is capable of.Berry

 

[PC]

.... ran PVC pipe around the perimeter of my shop with quick connect couplers about every 10'. That was at least 20 years ago and I have never had a problem. ...

Dale Earnhardt raced stock cars for 25 years with no problems. Until that last race.

Safety isn't just about the whens it's also about the ifs.

If PVC pipe is manufactured properly and
If it's installed correctly and
If it's not subjected to impacts, abrasions, punctures, chemical crazing, excess heat, freeze/thaw cycles or cuts and
If it's not abused in service,
then it's not likely to fail at pressures within ratings.

And honestly, it doesn't fail very often.

Tubing that's approved for pneumatic use, nylon, urethane, copper, etc, also fails occasionally, if rarely.

But when those fail they split, tear and release pressure. PVC shatters, producing shrapnel.

OSHA Safety Hazard Information Bulletin on
the Use of Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) Pipe
in Above ground Installations

Do you feel lucky?