Aftermarket starter solenoid?

[Winston]

The starter solenoid on our TR4 gave up the ghost yesterday. I'm starting the car by jumping the two posts on the broken part.
I went up to O'Reilys and picked up a $10.00 screw terminal vs. spade terminal and installed. No Go !
I know that the part from China is for a 12 volt system, why would'nt it work?

 

[martx-5]

There could be several problems...

1. There is nothing wrong with the original solenoid. Check to see that you have 12V going to the activation terminal when the key is in the start position. That would be the small gauge wire going to the solenoid. If you don't have 12V there, then the problem is elsewhere (from the keyswitch) and not in the solenoid. If you don't have a voltmeter, just take a small wire and jump from where the battery cable connects to the solenoid to the small post on the solenoid. You could try this with either solenoid to see if they work.

2. If the new solenoid has two small posts and you may have the keyswitch wire hooked to the wrong one. Some solenoids have the second post to supply 12V to the ignition system for starting.

3. You bought a solenoid that has two small posts, but one of them provides a ground for the solenoid coil. You'd have to run a ground wire on that second post. Those aren't too common, so you probably don't have one of those.

4. The solenoid you bought is no good or wrong for the application. What did you ask for?? If you're not concerned with originality (which, at this point I don't think you are), just ask for a late '60's Ford solenoid. Say a Mustang...any engine. It will have the two small posts, but you will only need to use one of them.

 

[dklawson]

My first thought was along the lines of Martx-5's points 2 and 3. There are a few solenoids out there that require a dedicated ground connection since they don't get it through their mounting bracket. Other solenoids support a switched output lug going to the coil when used on cars with ballasted ignition. If you hook the ignition switch connection to that terminal it won't do any damage but it won't work either.

Take the solenoid off the car and make connections from the battery to the small lug(s) on the solenoid and its mounting bracket. (Obviously you'll be doing this with the heavy gauge wires disconnected). When you get the right combination of ground connection and input power you'll hear and feel the solenoid fire closed and you'll know how to connect it to your wiring. If you can't get it to work that way, take it back and follow Martx-5's suggestion in his point #4.

 

[Winston]

Thanks for the input. I went ahead and ordered the Vicky Brit part, (should be here today or tommorrow).
I also noticed in the recent British Motoring from Moss that they offer an ignition switch for $29.95 on sale,I will probably order one while replacing all else.

 

[dklawson]

Out of curiosity... what solenoid was original to the TR4? Did it use the squarish Lucas solenoid or the round body one with the rubber pushbutton on its rear end (for manual cranking of the engine)? Be advised that the round body ones available now are junk. I've gone through three in as many years.

The problem with these 'new' ones is there is an "E" clip on the actuating shaft inside the solenoid. Over time the E clip works loose and falls off the shaft. Once that happens the solenoid can't drive the contacts together. You may still want to find a suitable U.S. solenoid if you're using the Lucas round solenoid.

 

[Winston]

Doug,
I'm unsure about the original part. I have ordered the square solenoid with the spade terminals. I'm pretty sure the part is not original and was probably changed when the car was switched to a negative ground.

 

[dklawson]

I lost my most recent solenoid while at the grocery store. There's nothing like a car full of frozen foods on a hot day to give you incentive to fix your car. I used insulated lineman's pliers across the solenoid contacts to crank the engine. As soon as I got home I installed a used square solenoid.

Regardless of what was originally on your TR4, the square solenoid should prove more reliable. You can also drill out the rivets holding it together to fix any problems and then use machine screws to put it back together. You can't do that on the round solenoids.

 

[tomshobby]

Doug, the 76 GT6 I had was white too. The only difference I could see was that I had bullet mirrors on the doors. Great car!

 

[Geo Hahn]

[ QUOTE ]
Out of curiosity... what solenoid was original to the TR4? Did it use the squarish Lucas solenoid or the round body one with the rubber pushbutton on its rear end (for manual cranking of the engine)?

[/ QUOTE ]

To the best of my knowledge, the rubber-button solenoid was used on all TR4s... the TR4As (like Winston's) may be where the square solenoid was introduced.

Good used rubber-button solenoids are usually available and that is what I use as I like the remote-start feature. They don't say Lucas on them but they do have a date of manufacture so one can determine if they are original parts.

I do have a square-bodied spare just in case.

 

[dklawson]

I'm anal enough that I don't even throw out the dead, round aftermarket solenoids. I took the one that died last month and "reconditioned it". It will never look the same since I can't roll form a closure for it, but it is all put together.

Thanks for the info on production dates on the Lucas solenoids. Next time I'm at a swap meet I'll keep my eyes open for them.