5-speed shift knob

[drooartz]

Even though I'm doing a fair amount of modifications to my Bugeye (5-speed, 1275, front discs) I'm doing everything I can to keep the appearance stock. One item I wanted to find was a shift knob that had the correct 5-speed pattern but looked reasonably stock -- I'm not a fan of wood or leather shift knobs. A bit of Googling brought me to these fellows:

Futofab:
https://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=90&Itemid=94

So I ordered one up, black with white writing, dogleg pattern, M8x1.25. Came in today and I compared it to a stock one. The Futofab knob is a bit larger than stock, but the shape is similar. I like it. Should make for a stealthy look.

Now I just need to restore the rest of the car. Guess you have to start somewhere. :grin:

 

[Gundy]

Nicely done. It is all about the details. Big and small.

 

[smaceng]

Knob looks great....I see you are installing the dogleg 5-speed.....have you researched the install details?
It is my understanding that it is different than the std. 5-speed unit usually installed?
Scott in CA

 

[drooartz]

I do have a dogleg 5-speed (not on purpose, just worked out that way). I'm planning on using Gerard's kit, and I'm pretty sure he's got it worked out for either variant.

 

[Gerard]

I do have a dogleg 5-speed (not on purpose, just worked out that way). I'm planning on using Gerard's kit, and I'm pretty sure he's got it worked out for either variant.

No worries Drew, my kit will work with either gearbox. There is one thing that needs to be added, but it will be simple for you. I'll explain when the time comes.

Good find on the knob. I do offer wood and leather Sprite or Midget shift knobs, but I'll have to save the link you found as a source for one with a stock appearance.

 

[AN5Sprite]

Drew,
Would you please post a pic of the underside of the knobs side by side? I'm curious.

 

[smaceng]

Another source for great wood knobs....like the one on my OLD BE is Larry Heaps .....Lheaps4@gmail.com
Scott in CA

 

[drooartz]

Would you please post a pic of the underside of the knobs side by side? I'm curious.

Futofab 5-speed knob on left, stock knob on right. My stock knob has a metal insert from bugeyeguy.com, never was a fan of the feel of the original rubber insert these used.

 

[drooartz]

No worries Drew, my kit will work with either gearbox. There is one thing that needs to be added, but it will be simple for you. I'll explain when the time comes.

Good find on the knob. I do offer wood and leather Sprite or Midget shift knobs, but I'll have to save the link you found as a source for one with a stock appearance.

Good to know, I figured you had a way to handle the dogleg boxes. I was really excited (it doesn't take much) when I came across these shift knobs -- I'm a big fan of the simple, stock-type shift knob and as it's one of the main touch points in a car it's a detail I really wanted to get right.

 

[AN5Sprite]

Thanks Drew. I was curious about the overall thickness of the plastic on the 5 speed knob.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

So let me ask a dumb question but how do you tell the difference between standard and dog leg boxes. I think the 210 box sitting on my workbench is a standard.

 

[AN5Sprite]

Shift through each gear and give the input shaft a spin, watch the output shaft... ? That's what I'd do.

I wish I had a 3d printer. Seems like a shift-knob would be an easy project.

 

[drooartz]

So let me ask a dumb question but how do you tell the difference between standard and dog leg boxes. I think the 210 box sitting on my workbench is a standard.

Look at the drain plug. Standard box the drain plug points down, dogleg box the drain plug points to the rear. Verify as Steve said (I did with mine) and spin the input shaft, watch the output.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

thanks now to find it in the back of my shop. Too much stuff. Too little room.

 

[BuggerAll]

Apropos fitting the dogleg box:
1/ you may need to cut a slight relief in the steel shifter hat to permit enough forward travel on the shift lever to fully engage reverse (I had to).
2/ I had a uniform shop which does employee nameplates (you know, the etched white letters on black background) make me up a little self-adhesive plate which has the dogleg shift pattern, which I neatly stuck to the dash in an empty spot.

 

[bugeyepaul]

I had the smaller one on the dogleg in my 510 years ago. I would be they're still around

 

[Gerard]

thanks now to find it in the back of my shop. Too much stuff. Too little room.

I have quite a few of the original 210 ones, but they are always light blue in color.

 

[Gerard]

Apropos fitting the dogleg box:
1/ you may need to cut a slight relief in the steel shifter hat to permit enough forward travel on the shift lever to fully engage reverse (I had to).
2/ I had a uniform shop which does employee nameplates (you know, the etched white letters on black background) make me up a little self-adhesive plate which has the dogleg shift pattern, which I neatly stuck to the dash in an empty spot.

Getting the shifter to clear the metal can is a common problem. It requires re-welding or bending the shifter just right, and even slight variances in cars structure and placement of the gearbox can make it better or worse. The dogleg is worse due to the shorter mount (if you did not compensate for that).

I also make a gaiter ring (exact reproduction of one used in post '72 cars), but in aluminum. Gaiters are still available from usual suspects and many other sources. Gaiter rings elsewhere are NLA.

 

[drooartz]

Apropos fitting the dogleg box:
1/ you may need to cut a slight relief in the steel shifter hat to permit enough forward travel on the shift lever to fully engage reverse (I had to).
2/ I had a uniform shop which does employee nameplates (you know, the etched white letters on black background) make me up a little self-adhesive plate which has the dogleg shift pattern, which I neatly stuck to the dash in an empty spot.

I'll probably have the shifter modified to fit a bit better, but I am prepared to adapt the shifter hat (which I want to keep) if necessary. Simple enough to do if needed.

 

[nomad]

If you want the original shifter cover look you can cut a section out of it so that it is lower. That's what I have done. Took about 1" out of it if I remember then welded the bottom flange back on. That gets the boot down close to where the new pivot point is and that will work. That is if you cut and reweld your shifter so that it is centered in the opening.

Kurt.