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TR6 1973 tr6

sundown

Jedi Hopeful
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Thanks members for answering some of the issues I am having. I'm pretty green on the understanding of this really cool car. I have another one for the experts I started the engine and using a timing light adjusted the timing to about 17degrees btdc when I first tried I could not even see the numbers on the pulley is this a good setting it runs pretty good. Also I notice the number 6 plug has some engine oil seeping out onto the block could it be a bad spark plug gasket the other plugs are fine. Thanks
 

poolboy

Yoda
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You should try to have a different title for each topic..otherwise it appears to be a duplicate of your other "73tr6"
Something like "Ignition Timing question about 73 TR6"
I have my own idea about using the damper marks to set the ignition timing..I don't. Instead I use a Vacuum Gauge connected to the banjo fitting on the intake manifold and use the manifold vacuum as an indication of the quality of the combustion.

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Want More ?
https://automotivemileposts.com/garage/v2n8.html
 
OP
sundown

sundown

Jedi Hopeful
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Thanks poolboy about the topic issue still feeling out the site. I do not have access to a vacuum gauge. Thanks
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Or about half that, if you have a Harbor Freight nearby. https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-93547.html They sometimes have them on sale for $9.99.

17 seems a bit much, but the important thing is that the engine never knocks (aka detonates, pings, etc) under load. The idle timing is deliberately a bit slow (even without the vacuum retard), for easier starting etc; so the factory advance curve moves quickly at low rpm to bring the timing up to optimum at medium and higher rpm. So if you set for best idle (whether by ear or by vacuum gauge), the timing may be over-advanced at higher rpm; which might lead to knock (or not, depending on a lot of factors like fuel, temperature, engine condition and so on).

This is typical pre-ignition damage, although in this case it was caused by too much oil burning (oil has a really low octane) rather than too much spark advance



So my suggestion would be to stick with the factory recommendation of 10 BTDC (assuming the vacuum retard is disabled or not working).

The oil you are seeing is most likely leaking somewhere else (like maybe the rocker cover gasket) and just collecting around the plug. Unless the tip of the plug is covered in oily black deposits (from burning oil), the oil is not likely to be coming from the cylinder. And even if it was burning oil that bad, you wouldn't be likely to see liquid oil on the outside of the plug unless the cylinder was not running at all.
 
OP
sundown

sundown

Jedi Hopeful
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Thanks guys a lot of great info.Randall I feel a little more at ease now about the oil seepage near the plug. Sundown
 
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