• Hi Guest! Being a Paying Supporter is NOT a requirement to participate at BCF. However, subscribing will help ensure we can continue to serve the LBC community for years to come. If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource...Please consider supporting us by **Upgrading**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this banner)

1962 Sunbeam Alpine


Freshman Member
Now that I'm on the verge of retiring, I hope to find some time to restore my '62 Sunbeam Alpine. I bought it in 1970 and its been sitting in my garage for 34 years. It probably needs some work to get it going again ! It ran just fine when I put it into the garage tho.

Where do I start? Please...don't use any technical language since I don't know a brake drum from a bonnet.


Jedi Knight
Please feel free to ask me anything you want. I've been a Sunbeam owner for 30 years now and have redone a couple and torn down for parts several others. Another good source of Sunbeam Alpine specific information is www.sunbeamalpine.org, (soryy for plugging someone else Basil), which can put you in touch with Sunbeam owners all over the world.


Freshman Member
Thanks Mike: So....where do I start? with the engine? the brakes? We tried to crank the engine with the hand crank and it seems frozen. Do I add oil and see if I can un-freeze it? What then?


Jedi Trainee
If you feel strongly that a numbers-matching car is important, then you'll want to do whatever you can to save the engine you've got (assuming it's original). However, if you are more interesting in building a car for your own enjoyment(or if your seized engine cannot be practically repaired), you might try to buy a Rootes engine that is in good running condition (these are often available from those wanting to change to a modern powerplant). Once you get an operable engine installed, clean and seal your gas tank(s) and replace all the rubber hoses. Replace all the wheel bearings and make sure your brake system is functioning properly before you test drive it. Replace the tires, even if they still have tread (they will have detriorated from age). If you intend to keep the wiring that's in there, check it over thoroughly to prevent the car from going up in smoke. I encourage you to dive into this project, just please make sure that these safety issues are addressed before taking that much-anticipated first drive. I suggest that you get the functional aspects addressed first, then drive it for a couple weeks to make sure the bugs are worked out before doing the paint&body, then the interior. That way any fluids that find their way onto your paint&interior won't ruin what you just redid. If you have wire wheels, make sure your splines are in good condition (note that one side has reverse threads, I believe it's the passengers side). Best wishes on your project.


Freshman Member
Thanks for your input. I'd like to keep the original engine if possible. I'd imagine somwhow that it can be un-seized. I'm not about to spend thousands of dollars to buy engines, transmissions, etc. I don't believe social security payments would cover that !.


Jedi Knight
I think at this point I'd pull the head to get an idea what I was dealing with. You can use penetrating oil to try to free up the pistons but I personally would be hesitant to try to run it since the borea and rings may be damaged by it. If you find you can get it going, be very carefule driving it. You probably won't have complete brakes or a reliable clutch. And the seals in the transmission and rear end will soon start leaking. But if you do want to drive,
1 Clean and regrease the front wheel bearings.
2 Drain and refill and bleed the brakes.
3 Pull the rear drums and make sure theres no loos junk in them, dirt and such.
4 Drain and refill the clutch master.
5 Drain and refill the transmission and rear end.
6 Check that the brake lights work, unless all you want to do is circle the yard.
7 Drain and refill the engine oil and the coolant.

I myself would probably start tearing it apart to go through the mechanicals instead of doing the above stuff. Id start with pulling the engine and transmission. If you've never dealt with an Alpine before take plenty of photos before, during and after, write notes, and bag and label anything you're absolutely not sure about. I tend not to do these things, but that's what 30 years of ownership and tinkering does to you...

You'll need a good workshop type manual as well, Sunbeam Specialties or Classic Sunbeam Auto Parts can help there.

And don't be suprised when it turns into a larger job and costs more money than you expect.


Jedi Warrior
And, if you don't own a decent digital camera, now is the time to get one. Take those pix and print them out, don't rely on the picture files. Make a photo album. In most cases B&W will be fine.

Guinn Hudon, retired photog and studio owner.


Jedi Warrior
Hi Brian
Welcome.That 62 sure sounds nice.As Mike has said a
there is the sunbeam alpine site which will help immensly.
As to the engine youcan remove the plugs and spray WD 40 into the cylinders.Use the little plastic rod and try to spray 360 degrees.Use a socket on the crank pully and try moving a minute amount forward and backwards after spraying WD40 a few days.at this point you only want to move it a tiny touch in either direction.If it starts to move you can gradually increase the movement till it frees up.spray more WD 40 into the cylinders to facilatate the movement.If it become free replace the plugs with new ones.Check that the points are working and the contacts are clean.A bit of 600 wet and dry will polish them up nicely.You will need to prime the carbs should be downdraft zeniths.Use 2 cycle oil for this as it will lubricate the cylinder walls a bit as well as the valves. I would also pour some oil over the valve train.I assume you would change the oil.Oh yes you might want to make a small gas can to fuel the carbs>you can use gravity on this.disconnect the line from the pump and block it.You won't want the old gas to contaminate the carbs.The tanks are pretty well needing cleaning.
If the engine doesn't free up you can remove the head and fill up the cylinders with coke a cola.Keep tapping the pistons with a wooden rod or wooden handle.Believe it or not it works.
as to the other advice it is good.Good Luck


Jedi Knight
I don't mean to poo in your cornflakes, but if you "aren't about to spend thousands of dollars" you may want to re-consider this project. I bought a Spitfire in similar condition years ago, did all the work and have over $7,000 in it. I needed everything. If your car has been sitting for 34 years, it likely needs everything too. You just need to be realistic. Good luck. I hate to see any LBC not restored.


Bob Claffie

Jedi Knight
Country flag
billspit has it right!. My experiences rebuilding/restoring has been that it will 1. either take twice as much $$ as planned and 3X the time or 2. 3X as much $$$ and 2X the time. Best of luck, Bob


Senior Member
When I got my 61 Alpine it was frozen up. I put the equivolent of two t spoons of Marvels Mystery Oil in each cylinder. I let it sit a couple of days and then I tried to turn the crank. Within a few days it would turn over all the way.
Check points and plugs. Changed Oil. Checked wiring.
Started it up. It started right up.
Didn't drive right away because I hadn't worked on the breaks.
Remember going fast is over rated if you can't stop.
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
CJ Burton MGB-GT Installing Seat Covers for 1962 - 1967 MGB GT MG 0
G 1962 TR3A inner plate # Triumph 8
C MGA R/H tail lamp removal on a 1962 MG 5
CLB62 1962 BT7 Tri-Carb for sale on BaT Austin Healey 2
S For Sale MG MGB Factory Parts Manual on CD/ROM - 1962 - 1976 Models MG Classifieds 0
S For Sale Triumph Spitfire Workshop Manual on CD/ROM - 1962 - 1978 Triumph Classifieds 0
S For Sale Triumph TR4 and TR4A Factory Workshop Manual on CD/ROM - 1962 - 1968 Models Triumph Classifieds 0
S For Sale Triumph TR2/TR3/TR3A/TR3B Workshop on CCD/ROMManual – 1953 - 1962 Models Triumph Classifieds 0
S For Sale MG Midget Workshop Manual on CD/ROM - 1962 - 1974 Models MG Classifieds 0
S For Sale MGA Factory Workshop Manuals on CD/ROM - All Models 1955 - 1962 MG Classifieds 0
S For Sale MG MGB Factory Workshop Manual on CD/ROM - 1962 - 1976 Models MG Classifieds 0
S For Sale Austin Healey Sprite and MG Midget Factory Workshop Manual on CD/ROM – 1962 - 1974 Spridgets Classified 0
S For Sale Austin Healey Sprite and MG Midget Factory Workshop Manual on CD/ROM – 1962 - 1974 Austin Healey Classifieds 0
H Estimating a Singer Gazelle IIIC from 1962 Other British Cars 3
C 1962 Healey 3000 Mark II Steering Box Austin Healey 9
Drone Dog 1962 3000 Hood/Bonnet Grille Austin Healey 5
AUSMHLY 1962 3000 Mk II BT7 speedometer Austin Healey 2
Drone Dog 1962 center shift gearbox cover Austin Healey 7
CLB62 1962 Austin Healey BT7 Mk II Austin Healey 15
lbcspinners 1962 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk II BN7 Tri-Carb 2-Seat Roadster: for sale on BaT Austin Healey 2
LarryK General TR 1962 Herald Convertible Triumph 10
R Sprite Bonnet Badge 1962 Square Body Spridgets 1
O Wanted 1962 tr4 seat rails Triumph Classifieds 0
S 1962 BT7 transmission shift rail bumber in bell housing Austin Healey 1
C For Sale 1962 Triumph TR3A Triumph Classifieds 3
P 1962 Sprite in Venice, FL Spridgets 0
R TR4/4A Recommendations for Wood dash 1962 TR4 Triumph 5
S My dads 1962 Mk2 Austin Healy finally seeing light since 1981. Austin Healey 4
R 1962 barn find Triumph 9
R 1962 Barn Find Restoration & Tools 7
6 Spitfire 1962 Spitfire, Hood parts &installation info Triumph 7
6 Hood parts and installation instructions for 1962 Triumph 1
Anthony_S Post-War Other 1962 Herald Triumph 4
Marvin Gruber 1962 OTS XKE Jaguar 11
F Road & Track 3000 road test- November 1962 Austin Healey 8
me61ic 1962 BT7 for sale in NY Austin Healey 0
C 1962 Austin-Healey BT7 value? Austin Healey 17
V 1962 BN7 Price Austin Healey 4
J AH 1962 - Putting on Front Fenders Austin Healey 8
V 1962 E-Type Jaguar 14
D TR4/4A 1962 TR4 - For Sale in Montana Triumph 3
M 1962 AHS ebay Spridgets 3
AUSMHLY Astro hard top for 1962-1968 Healey Austin Healey 7
C I found a 1962 today! Spridgets 4
J 1962 3000 MKII BT7 Water pump replacement Austin Healey 3
af3683 TR2/3/3A TR3B - Register it as a 1962 or 1963? Triumph 19
C 1961-1962 Sprite, What chasis and Frame? Spridgets 4
C Austin Healey Chasis/Frame for 1962 Austin Healey 4
J Austin Healey 1962 MK II - horns orientation? Austin Healey 2
Ed Sweeney TR2/3/3A 1962 Triumph TR3B Original Tire spec? Triumph 7

Similar threads