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1500 Midget Heater Valve Question

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Hi everyone - most of you probably remember my post a few months ago when my fan clutch separated from my water pump and really messed up my radiator. Well I replaced the water pump, fan clutch, plastic fan, and had my radiator rebuilt. I replaced some hoses (most were replaced by the previous owner) and detailed the engine compartment. It looks great.

Now for the not so good news. Everything is back together and I installed new antifreeze today and started the engine. Everything went fine. The engine is cool and sounds great. Then I noticed a small puddle of antifreeze under the car. It is coming from the heater valve. I don't think it leaked before but it leaks now. It is leaking from around the lever that is used to turn the valve on and off. Moss (part number 360-425) & VB say that the valve is not available. Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone know if the valve can be repaired (it doesn't look like it comes apart)? Is there a replacement valve available? I can also remove it and either have the water circulate through the heater core all the time or I could bypass the heater core altogether. I would appreciate any advise or assistance. Thanks.
 
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I don't have a 1500, but I think they are rebuildable. JimmyB... where are you?
 
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Trevor - It doesn't look rebuildable but I could be wrong. Is there a rebuilt kit available? Thanks for the quick response.
 
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Budk1953 - Thanks for the great information. Do you know if the rebuild kits are available? I'll contact the Ebay seller. Thanks again.
 
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Budk1953 - I emailed the Ebay.uk seller to make sure that they will ship to the US. Some won't ship to the US. I hope this ones does.
 

Bugeye58

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Tony, I run with the heater valve open all the time on my A Series powered cars, so you can just tie the hoses together if you want. As long as you keep the footwell doors closed, you don't really notice that the heater is on.
Jeff
 

startech47

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What you need is an o-ring that you can obtain at a hardware store and you will need to punch out two gaskets. Just did my sons.

Phil
 
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Ashley hinton ships to the US. valve is rebuidable with common orings and gasket paper. Piece of cake.

mark
 

sparkydave

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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif Easy to repair. An O-ring from the Help kits at Autozone and some gasket paper, and it's good as new. I just leave mine on all the time.
 

JimBrashear

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Silentunicorn you are right. I've done two. It's a well made piece. I soft media blasted mine then new o-rings and gaskets, looks and works like new.
 
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Thanks everyone for the information. How does the valve come apart? Is there a set screw or something that I am missing? Also, what gaskets are you all talking about? Are they the gaskets that go one either side of the metal bracket or are there gaskets inside the heater valve?
 

sparkydave

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Tony, if you take the two halves of the valve apart and scrape the gasket off the side with the valve handle, there is a small screw holding the valve in place. There's just one O-ring around the shaft, and you'll probably need to make a new gasket to go between the two halves.
 
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Sparkydave - I'm still confused. I will remove the valve from the car today so that I can see it better. I still don't understand "scrape the gasket off the side with the valve handle". Do I scrape off the gasket before the valve comes apart? Is this gasket inside the valve? Where is the small screw that holds the valve together? I can't see a small screw on my valve. Sorry for the questions but without a drawing of the valve and of the pieces of the valve I guess I just don't understand the part.
 

sparkydave

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There are two screws holding together the half with the elbow and the half with the valve handle in it, and these two screws are also holding the entire valve to the mounting bracket. There is a gasket between these two halves. I say to scrape the gasket off, because when you get them apart the gasket remnants may be covering the screw (i.e., you can't get to the screw without separating the two halves). Once you remove the screw, the valve handle pulls out, and there's an O-ring (probably very crispy by now) on the shaft.
 
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Sparkydave - thanks for the information. I plan on removing the valve today or maybe on Saturday.
 
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