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SilentUnicorn
Yoda
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anyone done this "in the car?". any pointers?..
going to attemp this. maybe
Mark
going to attemp this. maybe
Mark
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1500 Bearing replacement
- Thread starter SilentUnicorn
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OP
SilentUnicorn
Yoda
Offline
rod and mains
Mark
Mark
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Yep, done it...you just can't get to the front or rear mains...
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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?.....you talking about replacing rod bearings in car? Yep, kinda hard but not real tuff!
[ 08-24-2003: Message edited by: tony barnhill ]</p>
[ 08-24-2003: Message edited by: tony barnhill ]</p>
aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Although I have only done this on my 1500 Midget with the engine out of the car, I'm pretty sure that you can replace the center and rear main with the engine in the car. There's really nothing blocking the rear main cap when the oil pan is off. The "trick" might be pushing the upper bearing halves out, but it's "do-able". An aquaintance of mine claims that the front main can be changed with the engine "in-car" too. It may be possible, if you can remove the front pully, and then the two horizontal bolts that thread into the "filler plate" above the front main cap (you may even be able to get those two bolts out with the pulley in place, but it would be slow going). If you can get that filler cap out, the front main cap would be removeable.
Always a good idea to use "Plasti-Gage" when you do something like this (to be sure that the clearances are reasonable).
Whatever else, be absolutely *sure* to replace the thrust washers (they're on the center main only).....these things are a weak point in the BL 1500 engine....many of the 1500s I've seen have them sitting in oil pan when the pan is removed.
Always a good idea to use "Plasti-Gage" when you do something like this (to be sure that the clearances are reasonable).
Whatever else, be absolutely *sure* to replace the thrust washers (they're on the center main only).....these things are a weak point in the BL 1500 engine....many of the 1500s I've seen have them sitting in oil pan when the pan is removed.
Gary Lloyd
Jedi Knight
Offline
But as always, the question is, is it worth it?? It takes about 2 hrs to pull an engine out of a 'B and about 4 hrs to put it back and have it running. I can't imagine a midget taking any longer. My bet is that because it is waaaay easier to work on an engine on a bench or stand, you would get a better job and probably not take a whole bunch longer!!
Andre the Giant
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
I'd have to agree that taking a 1500 out of a Midget is pretty doggone easy. I think its also worth it to do a complete rebuild while you have the engine out. New gaskets, seals and a valve job would probably be appreciated by your MG.
Good luck!
Andy
Good luck!
Andy
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
along Andre's line of thinking: Midget engines are real easy to pull just by themselves...you can leave the tranny in the car if you like or just reach down in there after the engine is pulled & pick it up by hand if you want....
...however with the undercarriage of a Midget more enclosed than a B, I don't think you can get to front & rear mains like you can to a B (though o a B its almost impossible)
...however with the undercarriage of a Midget more enclosed than a B, I don't think you can get to front & rear mains like you can to a B (though o a B its almost impossible)
aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
Offline
I agree: it's really best to take the engine out, if time and money will allow.
Oil pan comes off a 1500 Midget with engine "in-car" pretty easy....I've done that lots of times.
Oil pan comes off a 1500 Midget with engine "in-car" pretty easy....I've done that lots of times.
OP
SilentUnicorn
Yoda
Offline
Thanx for all the thoughts,
Here is my plan (subject to change on a moments notice). the 75 rolls in the spring of '04 , this car is very low rust and all original, from what i can tell. my 79 appears to have a body tweek in her. but would make an excellent parts car for the 75. rebuilt motor suspension....yada yada yada.. so i was toying with the idea of just replacing the bearings in the 75 (it has a lower end knock) and driving it as is. 75 has 83k on it and i am sure that other stuff is worn alltho the compression across all 4 cyls is 125 +/- 3lbs. so i guess the best bet would be at the end of the season to strip the 79 of all parts and place the rebuilt moter in the 75... allong with whatever else it needs.....this seems like the smarter move. then i guess i will rebuild the 75 motor with a few tricks (heheheheh) then put it back in when done.
thanx all for putting me right..
Mark
Here is my plan (subject to change on a moments notice). the 75 rolls in the spring of '04 , this car is very low rust and all original, from what i can tell. my 79 appears to have a body tweek in her. but would make an excellent parts car for the 75. rebuilt motor suspension....yada yada yada.. so i was toying with the idea of just replacing the bearings in the 75 (it has a lower end knock) and driving it as is. 75 has 83k on it and i am sure that other stuff is worn alltho the compression across all 4 cyls is 125 +/- 3lbs. so i guess the best bet would be at the end of the season to strip the 79 of all parts and place the rebuilt moter in the 75... allong with whatever else it needs.....this seems like the smarter move. then i guess i will rebuild the 75 motor with a few tricks (heheheheh) then put it back in when done.
thanx all for putting me right..
Mark
Hello S.U.
If the bottom end is knocking there is a good chance that you will need a grind as well as bearings.
However a trick in removing upper shells is to use a split pin inserted into the oil drilling of the crank then rotate the crank so pushing the shell out. Obviously take care with selecting an appropriate size pin and rotate the crank against the shell end without the tab.
Alec
If the bottom end is knocking there is a good chance that you will need a grind as well as bearings.
However a trick in removing upper shells is to use a split pin inserted into the oil drilling of the crank then rotate the crank so pushing the shell out. Obviously take care with selecting an appropriate size pin and rotate the crank against the shell end without the tab.
Alec
OP
SilentUnicorn
Yoda
Offline
Piman,
neat trick
Mark
neat trick
Mark
Gary Lloyd
Jedi Knight
Offline
Good idea Andre!!
