A cork gasket has to pretty much be secured to one surface to assure it stays where it belongs during installation. An 'old school' mechanic, my dad, used thread to tie the gasket to the pan through the bolt holes (he was somewhat adverse to 'goops' in general). What works well for me, for both pan and valve cover gaskets, is to affix the gasket to the pan/valve cover with an adhesive. 3M upholstery trim adhesive--aka 'yellow snot' (it also comes in black)--works well, as does any of the 'goops' that have 'adhesive' in the name. Then, a thin film of non-adhesive sealant--RTV, Hylomar, etc.--is applied to the side placed against the block. Done right, the pan/cover can be easily removed and the gasket often reused several times. Or, you can use 'Right Stuff-type' gasket maker for a permanent bond (no cork), as did the mechanic who built my BJ8's engine. Unfortunately, I clanged the pan on a driveway lip and all but destroyed my elbow sawing it off with a serrated kitchen knife. When I told my mechanic about it, he said: "Well, it wasn't meant to be removed." I found a good used pan, and used the gasket-glued-to-the-sheetmetal-with-a-soft-sealant' technique.