TR2/3/3A Amp Gauge-erratic reading after alternator conversion

[Redoakboo]

I have done a alternator conversion on my 54 TR-2 that I am restoring. I am now getting a erratic reading in the negative side of the gauge. Is there a wiring change I need to make to clear this up?

 

[Redoakboo]

Can you define “erratic”? I’ve got a similar setup, pos ground, with a shunt. On start up, ammeter reads high for 20-sec or so, while the battery is charging. Then for the first 10-min or so, I’ll see some spiking, irrespective of the load (like my OD). Then it goes away. Not concerned.

I have swapped the two heavy wire leads, including the overdrive relay wire. The gauge now records a positive, steady reading on the plus side.
Thanks guys, for all your help. Now, if I can find the elusive loose wire running the psgr side, rear blinker, everything will be fine.

Today I am installing a new radio. I am putting it under the rear seat, right in the middle. I have four speakers, two in front and two in back. I am going to use a surface mounted antenna behind the rear view mirror.

 

[sp53]

Charley please pour oil on the lifters and cam with the valve cover and any other cam shaft voodoo you know. I want to keep my club very small.

steve

 

[charleyf]

Charley please pour oil on the lifters and cam with the valve cover and any other cam shaft voodoo you know. I want to keep my club very small.

steve

Thanks Steve. The engine has just been rebuilt with almost all new components. Professional friend did the rebuild, used lots of lube. This is the third TR engine he has built with me.
Charley

 

[jcw67spitfire]

Interesting situation and thread of advice and suggestions. Inviting those of you on this thread to a group for electric upgrades of all sizes.

 

[bammons]

I am getting ready to convert my voltage regulator to a "dummy" as Hamish shows above. So I assume that this conversion would be the same for my TR4A correct? There is a comment below that by Steve stating not to connect the "F" wire. I assume he means just tape it? I have searched for Randall Young's post on this and surprisingly cannot find it despite spending considerable time on it. Does anyone have that post or direct me as I recall he had covered it very well. However I can use what is posted above but what is the definitive answer on the F wire? Bruce

 

[Redoakboo]

I am getting ready to convert my voltage regulator to a "dummy" as Hamish shows above. So I assume that this conversion would be the same for my TR4A correct? There is a comment below that by Steve stating not to connect the "F" wire. I assume he means just tape it? I have searched for Randall Young's post on this and surprisingly cannot find it despite spending considerable time on it. Does anyone have that post or direct me as I recall he had covered it very well. However I can use what is posted above but what is the definitive answer on the F wire? Bruce

Bruce,

I have the original wiring diagram I got when I bought the alternator and Dummy regulator from British Northwest. Send me your email to redoakbooyahoo.com and I will send them to you. Dick

 

[DavidApp]

Not a good idea to post an email address in a forum.

This is what I did to my regulator box as per Randall's diagram.

David

 

[charleyf]

Dick, you can go back and delete your address.
Charley

 

[Basil]

Dick, you can go back and delete your address.
Charley

The problem with posting emails in a forum is that "bots" that crawl the interent (like Google does) will see it as an email address and "harvest" it to use in their lists that they spam people with. However, if you look under the smilies icon in the editor you will see I have a "smilie" that is an image of the @ sign. This allows you to post an email address that a human can read, but those spam bots that crawl th net will not see it as an email. So, if you need to post an email, it is higjly recommended you use that "picture" like this: basilbritiishcarforum.com << Any human can read that, but a bot will not see this an an email address - much safer if you need to post your email address.

 

[bammons]

I do not want to "hijack" this thread but I will go ahead since it is directly related. Basil if you feel it is inappropriate let me know (or anyone else). David - I see you are not using E and F but Hamish is using them. Can someone explain in simple terms (for me) why it is done both ways and is there a advantage to one way over the other. Another dumb question - are the leads that you are soldering to cut or do you just solder to them and that takes care of it? They don't look cut. Is the "coil" assembly simply left in place or removed? Bruce

 

[Hamish Racing]

Bruce I have NO electrical knowledge and followed advice from those in the know in the tr register
I did cut the “fixed” metal strips
And my observation was the connections for the thick wires join to each other and the same for the thin wire connections.
I also removed the innards ( use it to keep spares like a plug. Fuses and spare electronic ign unit.)

 

[Sarastro]

I suggested disconnecting the F (field) wire because it can be "hot" with the generator/alternator output voltage. If the other end is not connected to anything and is well taped, it won't matter. But on general principles, I'd keep it unpowered. I would also disconnect the E terminal, so it is no longer connected to the chassis. If you don't, the cutout and regulator relays will still be powered. Probably won't hurt anything, but they still will suck up current unnecessarily.

Or, just gut the innards of the regulator, so nothing inside is connected to any of the terminals.

 

[bammons]

Dick sent me this instruction which came with the Dyno-Alt (which I have misplaced somewhere). I am not knowledgeble but this seems different from what I am seeing above. F is disconnected as above but E has a lead coming off of it. Since the instructions do not call for any internal "shunts" or disconnects I am not sure how this translates to the above methods. I don't see me going back to a generator but I suppose this method is more reversible. I am fairly confused now. Bruce

 

[DavidApp]

I am only using the control box as a connection point in the wiring from the Alternator to the ammeter. It makes it look to the casual observer like it is still being used.
I believe that is the mod Randall posted.

David

 

[Graham H]

If you are using an alternator with a built-in regulator the original control box is only there for show and a convenient connector for the charge light, amp meter, and battery charging connections, so the internals are now obsolete.

 

[bammons]

I get that it's function is not needed anymore. I do want the box mounted for looks. Obviously all the above work. So I will just pick one. The great Randall was never wrong so I will use the picture that David posted of his recommendation above to do the modification. Bruce

 

[Sarastro]

Actually, I think that the picture in Bammons' post should be OK. As long as the D and F are not connected, you should be OK. Or, you could bridge the A and A1 as in David's picture, but I would not connect it to the D terminal. That would prevent powering the existing regulator's coils.

 

[DavidApp]

This is my crude wiring diagram using the modified regulator box as a connection point.

David

 

[bammons]

David - Thanks for the drawing. For someone like me this helps. My altenator is only 40 amp and I am using a high torque starter as well so this is the way I need to do it as well. Bruce

 

[DavidApp]

Hello Bruce

Notice I wired my High Torque starter so that the original solenoid acts as the switch for the starter. This way I can use the button on the solenoid when I am working on the engine.

David